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1 March 2007 An Irregular Wave Propagation Model Application to an Open Coastal Area
A. C. Zózimo, C. J. E. M. Fortes, M. G. Neves, Óscar Ferreira, J. L. M. Fernandes
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Abstract

In this paper the DREAMS_CR_S model for propagation and deformation of random waves (characterized by a directional spectrum) over regions of variable depth is described. It is based on the linear superposition of the wave fields obtained from a monochromatic wave model for several frequency–direction components in which the incident directional spectrum is discretized. The model predicts the effects of refraction, diffraction, shoaling, reflection, and wave breaking. The model was applied to a real case—the Ancão Inlet at Ria Formosa, in Algarve (Portugal). Incident wave model conditions were chosen from measurements by a directional buoy, deployed over the seabed at −25 m depth below chart datum. The results illustrate that the model without breaking is working well and can be applied to areas with complex bathymetry. When breaking is taken into account, the results are not very accurate. The wave-breaking iterative process and the estimation of the breaking point used in the model have to be improved.

A. C. Zózimo, C. J. E. M. Fortes, M. G. Neves, Óscar Ferreira, and J. L. M. Fernandes "An Irregular Wave Propagation Model Application to an Open Coastal Area," Journal of Coastal Research 2007(232), 395-404, (1 March 2007). https://doi.org/10.2112/04-0192.1
Received: 30 March 2004; Accepted: 2 February 2005; Published: 1 March 2007
KEYWORDS
Ancão Inlet
energy dissipation
finite element model
linear superposition method
mild-slope models
random waves
wave breaking
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