Bae, J.S., Yoon, S.B., Choi, J., 2013. Boussinesq Modelling of a Rip Current at Haeundae Beach.

The rip current occurring at Haeundae beach in Busan, South Korea was numerically investigated under directional random wave environment. The numerical simulations were performed using a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation model, FUNWAVE which is capable of resolving phase interaction and simulating nearshore circulation since it includes the effect of wave-induced momentum flux and horizontal turbulent mixing. To examine the modelling, the rip current occurred on the 12th of June, 2011 at Haeundae beach was simulated by using observations. The results of numerical simulation showed the time-dependent evolution of the wave-induced nearshore circulation that was caused by transformation of random waves due to the unique topography of Haeundae beach. And, it was found that the rip current was well generated and developed through the region where relatively lower wave heights were caused by refraction and diffraction of waves due to the topographical characteristics (i.e., submerged shoal). In addition, we found that a narrow-banded spectral wave (i.e., a swell spectrum) close to a regular wave generates stronger rip current than a broad-banded spectral wave under an equivalent wave height and period condition.