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Woo, H.J.; Lee, J.-H.; Kang, J., and Choi, J.U., 2018. Sedimentary processes of barrier-lagoon system in the Nakdong river estuary, Busan, South Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1–5. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Nakdong River Estuary on the southeastern coast of the Korean Peninsula is enclosed by two large estuarine dams, one constructed in 1934, and one between 1983 and 1987. The estuary has been characterized as a barrierlagoon system with various subenvironments and micro-tidal ecosystem and a mean tidal range of 1.07 m. The monitoring short-term sedimentation rates and suspended sediment characteristics were investigated to understand sedimentary processes in the barrier-lagoon system of the Nakdong River Estuary. The surface sediments generally showed sand sediment was dominated along the seaward side of the barrier islands and muddy sand sediment was dominated within the lagoon. The short-term sedimentation rates for a year showed that deposition dominated the tidal flats between the mainland and Jinudo (JW-line) and the mainland and Sinjado (SJ-line), with net deposition rates of 10.09 and 12.38 mm/year, respectively. Erosion dominated the tidal flat for two years at the southern end of Eulsukdo (ES-line), which is located on the eastern side of the system, at an annual rate of −12.76 mm/year. Four 12.5-hour anchoring surveys conducted at the inlets and channel revealed that net suspended sediments were transported to the open sea during a tidal cycle in summer. The sedimentary processes of the Nakdong River Estuary showed that sediments were transported into the lagoon through inlets during floods and moved westward and/or northwestward; they were then deposited on the tidal flats and in channels near the dams under low energy conditions. Within the eastern side of the system, sediments flowed out of the sea with discharge from the Nakdong Dam during ebb conditions. The major control factors for seasonal variations in these sedimentary processes within the barrier-lagoon system were waves, tidal currents, and dam discharges.
Park, D.; Kim, H.; Lee, S.; Lee, J., and Yoo, J., 2018. Simulation of storm-induced cross-shore sediment transport at Anmok Beach with wave-resolving CST3D-WR. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1001–1005. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
An intensive field survey was carried out before and after a typhoon Goni at Anmok Beach, east coast of Korea, where a submerged breakwater exists. Survey items include offshore wave height, direction, and period; nearshore wave height, direction, and period, current and water level, bed load and suspended sediment load; bathymetry; and shoreline position. Interesting bathymetric change was observed after the typhoon: offshore sediment transport and consequent bathymetric change happened along the most coastline. The data exhibit the impact of the typhoon clearly, A wave-resolving numerical modelling system CST3D-WR was applied to the site for the typhoon situation, and qualitatively well reproduced the field bathymetric change.
Lee, H.J.; Do, J.-D.; Kim, S.S., and Lim, H.S., 2018. Sands Escaping Haeundae Beach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1006–1010. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Haeundae Beach has been hypothesized to lose sands from the nearshore of the western extremity of its pocket-beach system with a tidal range of 0.5 – 1.2 m. To test the hypothesis, a measurement station was located in this area to observe a suspended transport of sands near the seabed. The hydrodynamic measurements included water level, wave, currents and suspended sediment concentration with a benthic tripod for longer than one month of the 2013–2014 winter. In addition, a Telemac-2D tide model was run to simulate tidal currents for the same period of time as the measurements. A total of 6 events of two tidal cycles each were selected and analyzed to represent a variety of combinations of tidal phase, wave energy and wave direction. The results show that the suspended sand transport occurred continuously and was controlled predominantly by ebb-dominant tidal currents. Thus it was always directed offshore. Waves higher than 1 m sporadically took place during the measurements. However, high waves could just reorient the offshore suspended sand transport from obliquely to normal to the shoreline. This is because they created residual currents flowing roughly parallel to the shoreline. Neither offshore wave direction nor tidal phase evidently influenced the characteristics of residual currents. Therefore, the escape of the Haeundae sand from the area of interest has been proven to occur year round intrinsically by tidal currents. Waves intermittently contribute much to enhancing the suspended sand flux offshore by vigorous resuspension processes.
Kang, Y.Y.; Ding, X.R., and Ge, X.P., 2018. Using Geostationary Ocean Color Imager to map the diurnal dynamics of suspended sediment concentration in estuary area. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 101–105. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Geostationary ocean color imager (GOCI), the first in-orbit operation of the geostationary satellite ocean color sensor, provides hourly observations of the covered area. Quick atmospheric correction (QUAC) algorithm was used for GOCI data to remove the atmospheric effects and an artificial neural network (ANN) inversion model (multi-layer feed forward neural network) was proposed to derive suspended sediment concentration (SSC) via GOCI in coastal waters of Yongjiang estuary, China. This model has three parts those are the input layer with eight nodes, two hidden layers with seventeen nodes in each layer, and output layer with one node. Compared with in-suit situ measurements taken in the Yongjiang estuary, the inversion model produces a superior performance compared with two other experience models (a linear regression model and an exponent model). Based on these atmospheric correction and ANN model, hourly SSC maps from GOCI data were generated. These maps revealed that SSC of Yongjiang estuary suffers from obvious spatial-temporal variation mainly affected by tide and topography.
Shin, S.; Bae, I., and Lee, J.-I., 2018. Three-dimensional variation of wave transmission around the artificial reefs: experimental and numerical studies. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1011–1015. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In this study, three-dimensional experiments were conducted to investigate the spatial variation of wave transmission characteristics under the different types and configurations of the artificial reefs. Partially permeable armored by tetrapods and impermeable structures were deployed with the different gaps. Incident wave conditions included both breaking and non-breaking conditions over the structures. Transmitted wave heights in cross-shore and alongshore directions were compared with the empirical formula. The results showed that the wave transmission phenomena were dependent of the structural type, layout, and gap distance. In the case of single structure, as the length of the structure increased, the transmission coefficient decreased. In the case of multiple structures with a gap, the length of the structures and the gap were inversely proportional to the transmission coefficient.
Kwon, Y.-Y.; Jeong, J.-Y.; Choi, J.-Y.; Shim, J.-S., and Kwon, J.-I., 2018. The simulation of vertical water temperature structure variation in the Yellow Sea typhoon MEARI. In: Shim, J.S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1016–1020. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Typhoon MEARI developed on June 22, 2011 in the eastern Philippines and passed through the central part of Yellow Sea for the first time in the history of meteorological observations. The Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology (KIOST) observed surface water temperature, salinity, flow velocity, and the vertical profile of temperature and salinity at a buoy located near the Eocheong Island off the west coast of the Korean Peninsula during Typhoon MEARI (1105). The purpose of this study is to analyze the change of water temperature and velocity characteristics of the typhoon passing through the Yellow Sea and to simulate the changes in the vertical water temperature structure by using numerical model. The Eeocheong observation buoy was used for validation and analysis of the typhoon's wind and surface temperature and for validation of the vertical structure of the currents and the water temperature. The model results show that the surface water temperature decreased and the bottom water temperature increased during the typhoon, similar to the observation results. The model reproduces the tendency of the thermocline to weaken and the mixed layer to thicken as the typhoon passed.
Xu, Z.; Li, H.; Liang, B., and Lee, D.Y., 2018. The investigation of morphology change effects on run-up based on 2D wave flume experiment. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1021–1025. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The high speed swash motion and wave runup in swash zone induce high morphology dynamic change at the beach, which is closely related to dune erosion. In the present work, the process of wave runup was investigated through the analysis of laboratory experiment at 2D wave flume. The time variations of swash shape were recorded by using side-looking camera camera. Runup heights were obtained from the video image analysis. The wave resolving model, XBeach model, is also used to simulate wave runup height by preparing the input boundary conditions using the laboratory hydrodynamic data at offshore. Compared to the wave run-up results obtained from laboratory experiment, the performance of XBeach is acceptable but shows some difference on the trends of Rmax and setup η changing with bottom change. The effects of bottom slope change (different forshore slope and sand bar developement) on the wave runup are discussed through analysing runup components (wave setup η and swash S) and incident wave height at different time, which shows the morphology change has unneglected effects on wave runup height by affecting the incident hydrodynamics, and the wave runup height and setup η decrease with the increasement of sandbar crest.
Paik, J. and Shim, J.-S., 2018. Numerical Modelling of a Solitary Wave Propagating over a submerged rectangular breakwater. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1026–1030. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Three-dimensional numerical simulation is carried out to reproduce the turbulent flow induced by the solitary wave passing a bottom-mounted, submerged, rectangular breakwater. The flow is characterized by the two counter-clockwise rotating vortices massively separated from the upstream edge and the downstream end of the top face of the submerged rectangular obstacle, respectively, and a clock-wise rotating vortex emerged at the junction of the channel bottom and the downstream face of the obstacle. It is crucial to accurately resolve the boundary layer separations at the obstacle surface and the channel bottom both upstream and downstream of the obstacle for elucidating the complex dynamics of resulting turbulent vortical structures. The turbulent flow is reproduced by the improved delayed detached-eddy simulation, a hybrid RANS-LES approach, and the twophase volume of fluid method is applied to model the wave propagation. The governing equations are solved by a second-order accurate finite volume method. Computed turbulent flow field around the submerged breakwater is compared with the particle image velocimetry measurements obtained in the experimental flume. The computed result is in good agreement with the experimental measurements in terms of distinct vortical structures shed from the sharp edges of the obstacle and developed at the downstream junction. The numerical result further shows the three-dimensional behavior of the turbulent vortices and their breakdown into smaller structures.
Cao, D.P.; Jian, W.; Huang, Z.H., and Lo, E.Y.M., 2018. Prediction of wave runup on columns of two semisubmersibles models. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1031–1035. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Water wave runup on columns of semi-submersibles has important implications on negative air-gaps created and slamming forces exerted on the underside of such platforms and their safe operations in rough seas. Many prediction formulas have been developed for wave runup on single vertical columns though none could be directly used for runup predictions on the columns of semi-submersibles due to the more complicated geometrical and diffraction effects. In the present study, small-scale experimental tests and limited numerical simulations using the linear diffraction and CFD solvers were conducted on two typical semi-submersible models, a twin-pontoon and a ringpontoon platform, to determine the runup on the columns. The experimental tests have the semi-models tested in a fixed configuration under regular and irregular waves and at different heading angles. Wave gauges and video recordings were used to capture the wave field and the runup on the columns. Key features observed were that sloshing between the front and rear columns created localized breaking over the pontoon, and that the maximum wave runup occurred at the downstream columns. A recently developed predictive runup equation (Cao et al., Coast Eng Jour. 59(3), 2017) is extended through by introducing an equivalent cylinder radius. The extension accounted for possible wave diffraction effects which led to higher runups than seen for single columns. The results from the limited numerical simulations were in quantitative agreement with experiments.
Passarella, M.; De Muro, S.; Ruju, A., and Coco, G., 2018. An assessment of swash excursion predictors using field observations. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1036–1040. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Accurate predictions of swash excursion are fundamental for improving the understanding of swash zone dynamics and for coastal management and hazard applications. Researchers have provided several formulas for predicting the swash excursion on sandy beaches. However, the problem of the universality of these formulas is still open. In fact, it is not clear whether the existing formulations are applicable to a wide range of beaches and wave conditions. This study verifies 13 existing swash (total, incident and infragravity) formulations using 13 published experiments (636 swash measurements). The experiments were carried out on beaches worldwide (dissipative intermediate and reflective) under a wide range of wave conditions (including extreme events). Results show that formulas behave differently with under and over prediction. However, some trends can be recognized, which are indeed critical for coastal hazards and management applications: generally, for large swash events (swash >1.5 m) large scatter are found for all formulas. During extreme conditions (swash>2.5 m) total and incident swash are strongly underestimated, while infragravity swash varies for each formula. The maximum errors and the root mean square errors can exceed 2.5 m and 1 m, respectively.
Kwon, K.; Choi, B.-J., and Lee, S.-H., 2018. Assimilation of Different SST Datasets to a Coastal Ocean Modeling System in the Yellow and East China Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1041–1045. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Global gridded gap-free sea surface temperature (SST) datasets were quantitatively evaluated using independent insitu datasets in the Yellow and East China Sea from September 2011 to February 2012. The assimilation effect of the four different SST datasets on a regional ocean modeling system was examined. The SST from the gridded SST datasets was compared with two ocean buoy SST data and bi-monthly routine hydrographic observation data in the Yellow Sea (YS). The root-mean-square differences (RMSDs) of the OISST, MGDSST, OSTIA, and MWIR SST datasets relative to the in-situ SST were 0.64, 0.53, 0.62, and 0.91°C, respectively. The RMSDs of SST were higher than 1°C for all datasets in the southeastern corner of the YS. Ocean circulation was simulated with a regional ocean model, and the SST data from the four SST datasets were assimilated. Assimilation of the SST to the ocean model improved the ocean current as well as temperature distribution. The daily mean simulated temperature was compared to the observed SST and vertical profiles of the temperature at the ocean buoys and hydrographic observation stations. After the assimilation of OISST, MGDSST, OSTIA and MWIR datasets, RMSDs of the simulated SST were 0.78, 0.92, 0.66 and 0.86°C, respectively, at the buoy stations. The RMSDs of the simulated subsurface temperature were 1.60, 1.67, 1.56 and 1.70°C, respectively, at the hydrographic observation stations. The simulated SSTs from the model with assimilation of the OSTIA and OISST datasets had relatively smaller RMSDs.
Pedreros, R.; Idier, D.; Muller, H.; Lecacheux, S.; Paris, F.; Yates-Michelin, M.; Dumas, F.; Pineau-Guillou, L., and Sénéchal, N., 2018. Relative contribution of wave setup to the storm surge: observations and modeling based analysis in open and protected environments (Truc Vert beach and Tubuai island). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1046–1050. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Recent events like the Xynthia (2010, France) storm illustrate the potentially devastating effect that storm surges can have on the coasts. Nearshore storm surges at the result mainly from two processes: atmospheric surges and wave setup. This paper investigate the relative wave setup contribution in the storm surge signal for energetic events and focusing on two cases: an open beach (Truc Vert beach, France) and a high island protected by a reef lagoon (Tubuai, French Polynesia). The two selected events are the Johanna storm (March'08), for the Truc Vert site, and the Oli cyclone (February'10), for Tubuai. The data analysis shows that the maximum total storm surge reaches 1.2 m on the Truc Vert site and 1.1 m in the Tubuai lagoon. On the Truc Vert beach, the ECORS'08 in-situ measurements allow estimating a wave setup contribution of 80% of the total storm surge, at the time of maximum storm surge. The relative contribution of the wave setup is investigated a bit further, using the modeling approach. The modeling relies on the joint use of a shallow-water (MARS 2DH) and wave (SWAN) models. It shows an heterogeneous distribution of the wave setup in the Tubuai lagoon and a longshore variability close to the waterline for Truc Vert (~ 30%). In both cases, the wave setup contribution to the whole storm surge is predominant, with relative values ranging from 71 to 120% of the total maximal storm surge. Values larger than 100% occur on the Tubuai site when the atmospheric storm surge is negative.
Yoon, J.-S.; Ha, T., and Jung, J., 2018. Laboratory experiments on characteristics of perforated-type floating breakwaters. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1051–1055. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Floating breakwaters were treated as solid bodies without any perforation in previous studies. In this study, however, a floating breakwater is perforated to allow the partial absorption of the energy produced by incident waves and an air chamber is placed in the upper part to control the breakwater draft. A series of laboratory experiments for a floating breakwater installed with a mooring system are carried out. In general, a mooring system can be classified by the number of mooring points, the shape of the mooring lines, and the degree of line tension. In this study, a four-point mooring is employed since it is relatively easier to analyze the measured results. Furthermore, both the tension-leg and the catenary mooring systems have been adopted to compare the performance of the system. In laboratory experiments, the hydraulic characteristics of a floating breakwater were obtained and analyzed in detail. A hydraulic model was designed to produce wave energy by generating a vortex with the existing reflection method. Analysis on wave changes was conducted and the flow field around the floating breakwater and draft area, which have elastic behavior, was collected using the PIV system. From the test results the strong vortex was identified in the draft area of the perforated both-sides-type floating breakwater. Also, the wave control performance of the floating breakwater was improved due to the vortex produced as the tension in the mooring line decreased.
Chun, I.; Kang, H., and Lim, H.S., 2018. Revisiting Head Loss of the Perforated Wall with Vertical Slits. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1056–1060. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A theoretical analysis and hydraulic experiments were performed to investigate the head loss that occurs when a flow passes through a perforated wall with vertical slits. In the theoretical analysis, continuity and energy equations were applied to a control volume set near the perforated wall. A non-dimensional energy equation was then derived to calculate head loss for the given values of the ratio of upstream and downstream depths and a Froude number based on downstream depth and velocity. The hydraulic experiments were performed by varying flow condition and the opening ratio of perforated walls. The non-dimensional energy equation and experimental results were finally used to evaluate the accuracy of three existing formulas.
Lee, H. and Lee, N., 2018. Lattice Boltzmann Simulation of Shallow Water Equations in Finite Element Framework. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 106–110. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The characteristic Galerkin finite element model for the discrete Boltzmann equation is developed for the depth-integrated shallow water equations. The lattice Boltzmann method (LBM) simulates microscopic collision and streaming of fluid particles and, then, evaluates the macroscopic velocity, pressure, etc. from the computed particle distribution. Due to the inherent geometric flexibility of the unstructured mesh in finite element method, the mesh clustering near large gradients and the numerical treatments of complex geometries has become possible. Some benchmark problems of practical importance (subcritical flow over hump, flow around cylinder, curved channel, etc.) are tested and the numerical results are in good agreement with previous experimental or analytic solutions.
Tan, H.M.; Chen, F.M., and Chen, J., 2018. Model test on influence of berth length on LNG vessel mooring under wave-current-wind loads. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1061–1065. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The movement of mooring vessel is complicated under the combined impacts of wave, current and wind, and the interactions between vessel and port structure are significantly affected by mooring cable and rubber fender. Also, the berth length has great influence on the installation of mooring cable. This paper reports the model test on the dynamic response of LNG vessel mooring system under the wave-current-wind loads, including movements of vessel and tension forces of mooring cables. Depending on the vessel length (L), the different berthengths (1.1L, 1.2L and 1.3L) were designed in model tests. The model test results show that the wave force is the greatest influential factor on the movement of vessel, and the movement values increased significantly with the increase of wave height and wave period. The influence of berth length on the movement of vessel is not obvious. The maximum values of tension force of cables increased significantly with the increase of berth length, due to the increase of cable length. Thus, the shorter berth length is helpful to reduce the tension force of cable.
García, I.; Negro, V.; López, J.S.; Esteban, M.D., and Del Campo, J.M, 2018. Parametric guidelines of tombolo formations beind detached breakwater systems in Spanish Mediterranean Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1066–1070. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Detached breakwater systems used to enlarge and protect extensive stretches of coastline can be designed with various methodologies. The latter may differ greatly from one another; some mainly have the geometric parameters and characteristic of the formation to be obtained and do not take the site's sedimentary variables into consideration. Designing and constructing these structures face a great problem in the lack of knowledge as to the coastline's morphology in its final condition when the situation of equilibrium is reached. Different alterations carried out afterwards on these structures to obtain the initially preset results are extremely costly. This study will reveal that, beyond ratios between dimensions and extreme climate variables, the siting and geometry of breakwaters forming the system will be directly affected by the variables that littoral dynamics and sedimentation may determine. This position must not be too far or too near since it may restrict the availability of sediments and therefore affect the formation considered. It will be deemed that, for an optimum design of these structures, the distance between detached breakwaters forming the system will be established on the basis of sustainability and with respect to water circulation an renews of the protected aera.
Vassie, J. and Choi, B.H., 2018. Simulation of Normandy Invasion on 6th of June, 1944. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1071–1075. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Known as one of the greatest military secrets of “Operation Overlord,” the cross- English Channel invasion of the northern coast of France on June 6, 1944, called for the Allies with accurate wave and tidal forecast for landing operation. Times of small wave and low tide were essential for successful landing. We are revisiting forecasts (hindcast simulation) via modern day updated numerical modeling based on coupled tide-wave-storm surge physics. The wind conditions are reproduced by using the meteorological conditions from ECMWF ERA-20C data of assimilation group. An integrally coupled tide-surge-wave model based on the identical, homogeneous and unstructured meshes were used for correct resolving the physics of tide-wave-surge interaction and performing for each transect, perpendicular to the beach, respectively. The model domain covers the wide Northwest European continental shelf and fine meshes with about 20m resolution in the Normandy invasion beaches. We performed the real time tidal simulation and compared with Kelvin (Doodson-Lege) tidal prediction. The tidal and wave prediction time sequential results are posted in the website, https://sites.google.com/site/bhchoiskku/dday, near the landing time, 6th of June 6:30 AM.
Oh, Y. and Kim, S., 2018. Field experiment to check the performance of new wave dissipating block. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1076–1080. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Verification of the damage coefficient of a newly developed wave dissipating block named Chi-block has been attempted via field tests. Usually, the concerned damage coefficient is determined via hydraulic experiments, and the block is used in the field without in-situ verification. The test breakwater was constructed in Marado, and 5-tonne blocks were installed in front of the breakwater having a 1:1.5 slope. In order to measure the movement of the block, a 3-dimensional acceleration sensor was installed in the block, and a pressure-type wave recorder was installed near the breakwater to measure the wave height causing displacement of the block. Seventy-three blocks were used in the experiment, and thirty acceleration sensors were installed amongst them. The experiment was conducted over the period starting from the beginning of May up to September 15, 2017 along the typhoon Talim hit Marado, thereby causing displacement of most blocks located near the water surface. It was observed that losses in the Chi-blocks occurred in the case of significant waves measuring 3.70–4.09 m in height, which is lower than 4.5 m calculated from the Hudson's formula with the damage coefficient 13. This is because the wave direction in the field was different from that observed during hydraulic experiments—approximately normal to the breakwater. The waves in the field, however, hit the breakwater obliquely. The proposed field experiment demonstrates that the acceleration sensor monitoring system installed within wave-dissipating blocks is useful in verifying the damage coefficient and performance of the concerned blocks.
Kim, Y.-T., and Lee, J.-I., 2018. Wave Transmission Coefficient for Rubble Mound Structures with Superstructures. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.-S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 21–25. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The wave transmission coefficents for rubble mound structures with the superstructures were investigated using two-dimensional hydraulic tests. Most previous studies on the wave transmission coefficient were about the low crsted structures. And the main armors were almost the rock and the superstructures were not constructed. The superstructures have an important role in reducing the wave overtopping, improving the stability and so on. In this study, the wave transmission coefficient for the rubble mound structures covered with the tetrapod (TTP) on the slope with the superstructures were investigated. Also the effect of the width of superstructures and the number of armour layer in front of the superstructures were investigated.
Larroque, B.; Arnould P.; Luthon F.; Poncet, P.A.; Rahali, A., and Abadie, S., 2018. In-situ measurements of wave impact pressure on a composite breakwater: preliminary results. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1086–1090. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A detached horizontally composite breakwater protecting the Saint Jean de Luz bay (French Basque Coast, Bay of Biscay, France) has been equipped with two pressure sensors displayed vertically onto the vertical wall. The two sensors recorded wave impact pressure in ten minute burst each hour at 10 kHz. In parallel, incoming waves were also recorded about 1 km off the structure with a directional wave buoy giving access to spectral wave parameters as well as raw data. Finally water level, wind magnitude and direction were also acquired. The whole dataset covers winter 2015–2016 from January to March.
The results show first the statistical distribution of the measured parameters confirming preceding similar studies in which significantly lower impact pressure values were obtained compared to physical experiments or numerical simulations. A linear multivariate model has then been adjusted showing the overwhelming influence of wave heights to explain maximum pressure variability, followed by water level. Nevertheless this result has still to be confirmed for data reduced to impulsive impacts. Finally, interesting events supposedly corresponding to, or approaching flip-through impact type, have been identified and need further investigations.
Kim, S. and Lee, H.S., 2018. Combined approach of empirical mode decomposition and artificial neural network for sea-level record analysis. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1091–1095. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In this study, we illustrate artificial signal tests analysis implying sea-level records analysis (Visser, Dangendorf and Petersen, 2015) with improved empirical model decomposition (EMD) and artificial neural network (ANN) for predicting the non-linear process of sea-level in terms of predicting a non-linear intrinsic mode for missed data and a non-linear trend. The EMD is intuitive, direct, and adaptive method for decomposing a signal into intrinsic modes, and does not require any predetermined parametric functions for analyzing a non-linear and non-stationary data. The ANN is one of machine learning methods to estimate stationary or non-stationary patterns/values. In our analyses, an artificial signal and sea-levels are decomposed into intrinsic modes, and then mainly low frequency modes are tested with ANN for predicting missing parts and for estimating future variabilities. Our results show that the combination of improved EMD and ANN is highly capable of predicting non-linear processes of sea-levels and can be applicable not only for predicting a missing data but also for estimating long-term natural variabilities and a trend.
Kim, T.R. and Lee, J.H., 2018. Comparison of High Wave Hindcasts during Typhoon Bolaven (1215) using SWAN and WW3 model. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1096–1100. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Typhoon Bolaven (1215) passed through the East China Sea and the Yellow Sea in August 2012 and generated extraordinarily high waves. During the typhoon, the maximum wind velocity and central pressure reached 53 m/sec and 920 hPa, respectively, and its strong wind radius was almost 500 km covering the South Sea of Korea as well as Korean Peninsula. Based on the data observed at the Ieodo Ocean Research Station, the significant wave height was 10.75 m and wind velocity reached to 35.42 m/sec, which were the highest records during 10 years between 2006 and 2016. Because of its large scale and severe damages to the port, several investigations on Typhoon Bolaven have been done using numerical wave models. However, different input data for forcing terms and different models made it difficult to compare the results as well as to clarify the cause of high waves.
This paper compares wave information calculated by SWAN and WAVEWATCH III during Typhoon Bolaven using same input data for forcing terms and grids. For wind data, parametric wind fields calculated by Holland (1980) and RDAPS/UM wind data were used, and same unstructured grid system was adopted for both models. Comparison and analysis of wave information calculated by two wave models with same input data and grids were carried out using observed data at ocean tower station and buoys. These results will contribute to establish wave prediction system for coastal waters of Korea by providing references for input data and grid system for wave model.
Bae, H.-K., 2018. The modelling approach for predicting costal pollutions using rainfall distributions over different land use/land cover. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 11–15. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In this study, a modeling approach using rainfall distribution over different land use/land cover was developed and tested to predict coastal pollutions at the Aliso Beach, California, USA. Rainfall distributions over each land use/land cover of the study area, Aliso Creek Watershed, were calculated to use as input variables for the approach. In addition to rainfall distributions, streamflow and previous total coliform concentrations were also used as input variables. Six-hour. averages of rainfall and streamflow data were used since the approach estimated total coliform concentrations for every Six-hour. The estimations from the previous step, previous total coliform concentration, were used for last input variable if observation data were not available since total coliform concentrations were measured once every three days. Six different model scenarios were tested mainly focusing on rainfall events. As the model scenarios became more complicated, better estimations were shown. The approach showed the possibilities for finer time scale prediction, such as 1 hr. or less time scale or even real-time predictions, since precipitation and streamflow can be available for finer time scale and estimated previous concentrations would be used if observation data were not available.
Cao, Y.F.; Shi, Y.; Bai, Y.C.; Li, S.W.; Chen, H.B., and Yang, H.L., 2018. Numerical modeling of permeable floating breakwater under the action of waves. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1101–1105. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Floating breakwaters are commonly used to protect shorelines, marine structures and harbors from wave attacks. This paper studies the interaction of water wave with a hinged permeable multi-tube floating structure, using a numerical model based on the Navier-Stokes (NS) solver and smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method. The simulation is performed in a 2D numerical wave tank (NWT) equipped with an active absorbing wave maker and a sponge layer. The motion of the multi-module floating structure is driven by hydrodynamic force and mooring force with its buoy structure being permeable. The dynamic boundary method is adopted to calculate the hydrodynamic force, and a light spring model is employed to calculate the mooring force. A laboratory experiment is conducted to validate the numerical model. The validated model is then employed to investigate the hydrodynamic characteristics of floating breakwater with different mooring type and structural style subject to various waves. The effects of wave condition, relative water depth on wave transmission are investigated. It is found that wave period have significant effect on transmission coefficient.
Zhai, Q.; Hou, J.; Wang, H., and Yan, J., 2018. The influence of tidal current on the orientation of wharf axis and the optimization of plane layout. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1106–1110. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A two-dimensional mathematical model of tidal current is established and verified for the new 300,000-ton crude oil wharf in Dalian New Port. The ship's mooring forces are calculated based on the standard-velocity tide, the measured tide data and the simulated tidal current. Optimization scheme is proposed for the plane layout of the crude oil wharf in Dalian New Port. The results show that there is a transverse flow in the wharf apron and the maximum mooring force appears when the direction of tide flow in the recirculation zone is 63°~67°NbE, which increases the occurrence probability of the cable break. In order to reduce the mooring force, it is recommended that the orientation of the wharf axis should be deflected towards east by 16°~20°, and the temporary berthing operation of the 450,000-ton ship should avoid the time of 2–3 hours before the lowest tide level. The present study can also provide guidance for the layout optimization of other similar planned wharfs.
Mascarenhas, A.C.C.; Correa, A.W.R.; Carneiro, A.C.; Costa, M.S.; Rollnic, M., and Medeiros, C., 2018. Seasonal Exchanges of Salt and Suspended Particulates between the Sol Bay and the Pará River, Amazonian Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 111–115. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Salt and suspended particulate matter (SPM) exchange between the Sol Bay and the Pará River and their tidal/seasonal variability was investigated along the interface cross-section (1°4′30.37″S 48°19′37.48″W), over spring tidal cycles, during the wet (Apr/2015) and dry (Oct/2015) seasons. Advective transport of salt and SPM was analyzed to evaluate trends and contributions of involved mechanism. Overall, salinity was low (S<2) during dry and absent during the wet season. Mean SPM concentrations where higher at flood tides during both seasons. Higher flow velocities were 1.29 m.s−1 (ebb/wet) and 1.17 m.s−1 (flood/dry). During the dry season net salt transport was 8.10 kg.s−1 seawards mainly due to a baywards Stokes drift transport (−193.7 kg.s−1) against a seawards transport by the river discharge, tidal correlation and turbulent shear components ( 179.0; 11.98; 7.72 kg.s−1). However, SPM was stored into Sol Bay at a rate of 2.06 kg.s−1 (90 ton per tidal cycle), as result of the baywards transport by the Stokes drift river discharge (−3.14; −0.82 kg.s−1) in opposition to the seawards transport due to gravitational circulation tidal correlation components ( 1.69; 0.48 kg.s−1). During the wet season the river discharge (29.8 kg.s−1) fluxes out SPM from Sol Bay while the Stokes drift (3.19 kg.s−1) and the turbulent shear (0.65 kg.s−1) components tends to move SPM back into the bay with a net exportation of SPM to the Pará River of 26 kg.s−1 (129.8 ton per tidal cycle). In conclusion, matter exchange between the Sol Bay and the Pará River is mainly governed by the river discharge and Stokes drift flow components. The relative contributions by the gravitation circulation, tidal correlation and turbulent shear tend to increase under low river discharge. A small salt exportation ( 8.10 kg.s−1) during the dry season
Rehman, K.; Park, K.-Y., and Cho, Y.-S., 2018. Experimental and Numerical Investigation of Solitary Wave Run-up Reduction. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1111–1115. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Rising sea-levels and extreme wave events threaten coastal communities and stability of coastal regions. Accurate prediction of wave over-topping over coastal protection structures is challenging, but vital for effective hazard mitigation. Non-hydrostatic numerical modelling and laboratory experiments are used to assess magnitude of run-up over coastal protection structures under varying relative wave heights and structural features. The primary focus is the investigation of solitary wave impact with breakwaters, the consequent run-up and measures for its reduction. The experiments consisted of generating solitary waves in a 1.1 m high and 32.5 m long flume and observing its run-up for different heights of incident waves. A slope adjuster was used to vary the slope of a plywood plank for reproducing coastal features. Experimental observations were verified by proposing a numerical model based on non-linear shallow water equations (NLSWE) and solution is obtained by Godunov-type finite volume method. The NLSWE provide good approximation of shoaling, wave breaking, and wave reflection which arise due to wave overtopping in the swash and surf zones. The novel feature of the numerical model is the introduction of bed slope discretization technique – applicable on both structure and unstructured meshes- which offers well-balanced solution even for steep slopes encountered in case of breakwaters. Shock-capturing capabilities of Harten, Lax, and van Leer with contact wave restoration (HLLC) solver are utilized for accurate estimation of shocks and bore waves features during flow transitions. The proposed model gives excellentn agreement with experimental observations. The findings will further enhance the understanding of extreme wave propagation events over submerged coastal structures and related mitigation techniques.
Lee, J.-I. and Kim, Y.-T., 2018. Stability on Concrete Armor Unit at Sharply Curved Corner. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1116–1120. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The breakwaters are one of the most important structures in coastal areas. In the design of rubble mound structures, accurate determination of the stable weight of concrete armor units is critical. This can be calculated using the Hudson or van der Meer formula, wherein the breakwater is assumed straight and the waves are assumed to propagate normally to the structures. The weight of concrete armor units at the head should be at least 1.3–1.6 times that at the trunk. However, design standards for the damage inflicted to concrete armor units at the convex corner of a breakwater are lacking. In this study, three-dimensional hydraulic model tests were performed to determine the stable weight of concrete armor units at the convex corner. Tetrapods were used as the target concrete armor units. The stable weight is suggested using a stability coefficient using Hudson formula. The results show that the stable armor weight at the convex corner is similar to that at the roundhead, could conclude that the weight at the convex corner should be approximately 1.4 times that at the trunk.
Shin, C.H.; Yoon, S.B., and Oh, S.C., 2018. A comparison of numerical models with experimental data for stem waves along a vertical wall due to monochromatic waves. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1121–1125. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Recently, vertical-type structures are frequently constructed in coastal area to protect ports and operation areas. When the waves propagate at oblique angles to the vertical-type structures, stem waves are generated along a structure due to the nonlinear interaction of incident and reflected waves. Thus, for the design of vertical structures the stem waves should be accurately evaluated using numerical models. In this study the performance of three nonlinear wave models based on different types of governing equations, REF/DIF 1, COULWAVE, and SWASH, was compared by using the measured data from laboratory experiment. The comparison was focused on accurate calculation of nonlinear effect. Overall performance of three wave models to generate the stem waves is compared and discussed. All the numerical models simulated fairly well the diffraction and reflection of waves for small amplitude waves. However, the model accuracy was somewhat degenerated as the wave amplitude becomes large. Among the three models, COULWAVE could not accurately reproduce the stem waves. The nonhydrostatic model, SWASH, gives the best results which agree with the experimental measurements.
Shin, B.S. and Kim, K.-H., 2018. Dynamic observation for Wave induced Current Using UAV-Based Photogrammetry. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1126–1130. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A small unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) platform is becoming low-cost, miniaturized hyper spectral imaging technology. The direct measurements of wave induce current is tested using image analysis techniques using sea dye maker and small unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV). Specially, rip currents are approximately shore normal seaward flows which are strong, localized and rather narrow. In this method, UAS at a region with frequent wave induced current occurrence, and images are continuously obtained in real time.
This research investigates the development of wave induced currents using images in East coast of Korea. Since rip currents are developed by longshore currents, the observed longshore current variations in space and time can be used to detect rip current generation. Rip current recorded by UAV when the significant wave height was 1,9m and the period was 6.0sec. The average velocity was 25cm/s. These remote sensing observations provide a more synoptic picture of the rip current flow field and allow the identification of several rip events that were not captured by the in situ sensors and times of alongshore deflection of the rip flow outside the surf zone. This study was conducted as part of the preliminary research for developing a method that can precisely measure the trend and velocity of wave induced current using small unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) - based on single photo-photogrammetry. Quantitative estimation of wave induced current is also conducted by using average and variance image of wave induced current area. These efforts will contribute to reduce the hazards of swimmers and shoreline changes by prediction and warning of rip current generation.
Park, W.K.; Moon, Y.H.; Chang, S.Y.; Jeong, W.M.; Chae, J.W.; Ryu, K.H.; Chang, Y.S., and Jin, J.Y., 2018. Nonlinear Transformation of Storm Waves and Impacts on Nearshore Mound in Haeundae Beach, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1131–1135. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Haeundae beach is the most popular beach in South Korea which has been suffered from serious erosion problem. To protect the beach erosion, various countermeasures such as beach nourishments, submerged breakwaters and nearshore mound have been conducted. However during typhoon Chaba (1618), extreme storms caused significant beach erosions. Extensive field measurements have been made to monitor the storm impacts on the beach changes. This study focuses on (i) the nonlinear transformation of the very high waves over the submerged shoals in coastal waters and nearshore mound placed parallel to the shoreline, and (ii) the consequent morphological changes. For numerical modeling, SWAN was used for offshore wave propagation and XBeach of non-hydrostatic mode for hydrodynamics and sediment transport simulations. It is found that the storm waves were significantly transformed by submerged shoals through wave breaking due to the shallow water depth and generation of super harmonics with significant amount of wave energy transferred from the primary waves, and similar process occurred around the nearshore mound. Specifically, the impacts of the nearshore mound on beach evolution were pronounced for the beach erosion control with respect to wave energy dissipation, onshore sediment transport, and sediment trap in the lee of the mound.
Cho, H.-Y.; Choi, H.-J.; Jeong, S.-T., and Ko, D.-H., 2018. Relationship between wave height and sampling interval: revisiting individual wave analysis method. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1136–1140. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Wave height is one of the most important physical factors in the coastal environment. In general, it is estimated using water surface elevation (WSE) data from approximately 20–30 minutes of observation. Wave height and period have typically been estimated by individual wave analysis and/or spectral analysis. When designing coastal structures, the wave parameters based on the individual wave analysis are used. However, in the case of short-period waves, the number of the WSE data becomes very small, and the wave height also decreases due to the limitations of the individual wave analysis. In this study, the relationship between wave height and sampling interval is analyzed using statistical simulation and in situ WSE data. Using the conventional range method, the wave hieghts are underestimated by approximately 6–36% as the sampling interval, Δt, decreases. The Goda three-point method contributed to the wave height correction estimated by the range method. However, the optimal fitting method also shows unbiased wave height estimation. Based on the assumption that WSE consists of wave signal and non-wave noise components, the conventional range method results in underestimation of the short-period waves and overestimation of long-period waves.
Yoon, G.-L.; Cho, H.-Y.; Kim Y.-S., and Kwon, S.-H., 2018. Hydraulic gradient reduction effects on sand-water mixture flows caused by electro-magnetic force generation. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1141–1145. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Large coastal development projects are frequently accompanied by reclamation and dredging works to create coastal land. In coastal reclamation projects, the construction materials and their transportation methods should be determined from an economic perspective because they constitute a large portion of the construction cost. Therefore, improvements to transportation efficiency are strongly expected to contribute to a substantial reduction in construction costs. In this study, an electro-magnetic force (EMF) generation method is proposed, and the quantitative effects of this method are analyzed via hydraulic model experiments with variable practical conditions. The experimental results show that a change in the typical flow type from bottom rolling to suspension contributes to a significant reduction in the bottom resistance and hydraulic gradient because of the lowered deposition height after EMF generation. The EMF effect was larger in fine soils than in coarser soils, and EMF generation reduced the hydraulic gradient by approximately 10%. Thus, EMF generation technology can be applied to reduce transportation costs, including of dredged materials, in many types of fluid flowing projects.
Ryu, K.-H., Shin, C.H., Lee, J.-I. and Yoon, S.B., 2018. Nonlinear interaction of unidirectional random waves along a vertical wall. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1146–1150. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In this study, laboratory experiments were conducted to investigate stem waves for unidirectional random waves. The measured wave heights were compared with the numerical simulations using REF/DIF S developed by Kirby and Özkan (1994). For the case of small amplitude waves no stem wave is developed, and the numerical solution agrees well with the measured data. However, for the finite amplitude waves the numerical solution gives no stem wave, while the measured data show clearly stem waves along the wall. In this study, a simple improvement on nonlinear dispersion relationship in REF/DIF S is made. As a result the numerical solution is significantly improved to give good agreements with the measured data. From this study it is found that the stem waves can also be developed for random waves, and the nonlinearity of incident waves is the controlling mechanism for the stem wave development along the wall.
Kim, H.; Min, B.; Lee, S.; Park, D., and Yoo, J., 2018. Eight-phase integration of powers of bed shear velocity for entrainment and bed load vector. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1151–1155. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Assume that the entrainment rate is a function of the bed shear velocity to a power with a scale factor, and the two components of the bed load are the cosine and sine of the power for the entrainment with another scale factor. The power n may be between 2 to 6 depending on their authors. There have been parameterization trials, to obtain wave-phase-average bed shear stress from current only and wave-related properties. They involve stirring factors, which requires other complicated manipulations. Here a guideline for numerical integration is proposed instead of parameterization. Bed shear velocity vector is assumed to be composed of constant current and sinusoidal wave components. 8 phases in a wave period is sufficient for accurate answers of the three properties for the power between 2 and 6, the errors of which are less than 5.1%.
Giudici, A.; Kalda, J., and Soomere, T., 2018. Joint Impact of Currents and Winds on the Patch Formation Near the Coasts of the Gulf of Finland. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1156–1160. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Both coastal and offshore areas worldwide are greatly affected by the impact of large patches of floating pollution. The main mechanism of clustering of floating litter into patches is the ability of water masses to dive (e.g. during a downwelling event) whereas the litter remains on the surface. This property is quantified in terms of compressibility of the surface velocity field. When this quantity increases over a certain threshold, patchiness of floating litter may increase explosively. However, for quasi-two-dimensional flows such as typical fields of currents over shallow areas, the compressibility is typically reduced well below this threshold. We adress another factor that can increase the patchiness growth, namely, the effect of wind drift. More specifically, we explore the effect of the dependence of the wind-driven drift speed on the size of the floating objects. We present the results of simulations of surface clustering of various types of floating items. The differences in the drift speed are taken into account within a novel Eulerian tracking model. To speed up calculations, we make use of so-called kd-tree spatial subdivision. The model is run for the Gulf of Finland, shows a consistent behavior under several of the discussed conditions, and demonstrates that this mechanism, when coupled with the turbulent advection, can give rise to a dramatic increase in the patchiness growth rate.
Lu, C.Z.; Li, H.; Dai, W.Q.; Tao, J.F.; Xu, F.; Cybele, S.; Zhang, X.Y., and Guo, H.T., 2018. 3-D Simulation of the Suspended Sediment Transport in the Jiaojiang Estuary: Based on Validating by Remote Sensing Retrieval. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 116–120. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Suspended sediment concentration (SSC) in Jiaojiang Estuary is characterized by high concentration and significant diurnal dynamics. The large-scale reclamation will influence the sediment transport in Jiaojiang Estuary. At present, ship-borne data, remote sensing observations, and numerical modeling technique are the main technological methods to acquire the distributions of SSC. However, every method has its own limitations in application. Conventional ship-borne survey requires a lot of manpower and resources to obtain sediment distribution of an estuary although its accuracy is high. The cloudy and rainy environment has been the bottle-neck for monitoring the land and ocean surface. With the influence of land-use by human activities (such as tidal flats reclamation) being strengthened gradually, previous numerical models are not suitable for the new environment. This paper aims to combine numerical modeling technique with remote sensing observations to acquire a higher-resolution surface suspended sediment field in time and space. MIKE3 3D model was used to simulate the suspended sediments and it is composed of hydrodynamic module and mud transport module. The surface-layer sediment distribution was calculated using suspended sediment dynamic mathematical model in MIKE 3. Based on Geostationary Ocean Color Imager (GOCI) and the simultaneous surface layer sediment concentration data, a remote sensing model was developed to retrieve the distribution of SSC in the Jiaojiang Estuary. The degree of matching between the remotely sensed SSC and the numerically simulated SSC is up to 72%, both of which reveal temporal-spatial variation of the SSC. The research provides a reference for real-time monitoring and forecasting the dynamic variation of the SSC.
Dreier, N. and Fröhle, P., 2018. Operational wave forecast in the German Bight as part of a sensor- and risk based early warning system. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1161–1165. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Today's available flood- respectively storm surge warning systems for the German North Sea coast consist exclusively of water level forecasts. Other hydrodynamic loads caused by wind waves and local currents as well as the resistance of the flood protection structure itself (e.g. coastal dikes, flood protection walls etc.) are not taken into account. Therefore, an operational now- and forecast system for waves and wave induced hydrodynamic loads is set up that consists of available field measurements and data from numerical wave simulations in the German Bight. A hybrid model approach is used for the forecast of hydrodynamic loads on sea dikes. The approach combines numerical results from the phase integrated spectral wave forecast model (SWAN) and an empirical wave run-up approach (EurOtop) for the now- and forecast of average wave run-up heights at a sea dike on the North Frisian Island of Pellworm. The operational system is demonstrated exemplarily for the forecast of a severe storm event on the 5–6th December 2013 (German name “XAVER”). The qualitiy of the forecast is assessed seperately for the local nearshore wave conditions as well as the average wave run-up heights on the basis of available field measurements.
Cho, Y.H.; Zhang, C.; Nakamura, T., and Mizutani, N., 2018. Failure mechanism of armor blocks of submerged breakwater. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1166–1170. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This paper describes the failure mechanism of armor blocks of a submerged breakwater under regular and long period waves. Laboratory experiments with the scale of 1/50 were conducted in a wave flume. The measured normal and tangential wave forces on the damaged armor blocks were compared with 31 tests for a submerged breakwater with 3 submerged depths and 3 respective wave periods of regular and long period waves. The experimental results described the failure of armor blocks in the threshold conditions occurred mainly at the seaward edge of the crown by normal wave forces under regular waves, and the landward edge of the crown by normal and tangential wave forces under long period waves. Two-dimensional numerical analysis was carried out to investigate the effect of temporal and spatial variation of wave fields around the submerged breakwater on wave force acting on armor blocks. The results demonstrated that the dominant wave forces on armor blocks were induced by the decrease of the pressure near the damaged blocks resulting from the wave breaking for regular waves and the increase in the flow velocity for long period waves. It was confirmed the other blocks on the crown tends to be stable under long period waves.
Yao, P.; Hu, Z.; Su, M.; Chen, Y.P., and Ou S.Y., 2018. Erosion behavior of sand-silt mixtures: the role of silt content. In: Shim, J.S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1171–1175. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
It is well known that critical clay content is key factor controlling overall cohesion of the mixtures and increasing erosion threshold. Besides cohesive clay fraction, existing studies show that non-cohesive silt can enhance bed stability of a sandy bed as well. Many studies were conducted with an artificial bimodal mixture with distinct peaks of sand and silt fraction to understand the role of silt particles. However, it is unclear to what extent a bimodal mixture represents natural sand-silt mixtures. In this study, we conducted series of annular flume experiments on sediment samples collected from typical silt dominated tidal flat to study role of the silt on erosion behavior of sand-silt mixtures. Two types of sand-silt mixtures were used: a silt-sized mixture with median grain size of 52 μm, and a very fine sand-sized mixture with median grain size of 82 μm. The results show mixtures with 30% silt content behaves as sand, and a Shields curve of fine sands (van Rijn, 2007) is applicable for prediction of the critical bed shear stress. However, bed stability is enhanced when silt content increases to 60%, since the critical bed shear stress is twice of bed materials with 30% silt. Since the fractional grain size ratio (Dm,sand/Dm,silt) of each mixture is the same, silt content is considered as the important factor on increasing the threshold of motion. More studies should be conducted to understand the critical silt content and the underlying mechanisms.
Kim, B.; Oh, C.; Yi, Y., and Kim, D.-H., 2018. GPU-Accelerated of Boussinesq model using compute unified device architecture FORTRAN. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1176–1180. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Graphic Processing Units (GPU) have a number of arithmetic units and their associated structures specialized for graphic processes make the computational performances much faster than CPU (Central Processing Units). In these days, many numerical models implemented by FORTRAN have been applied on real field scale problems, which requires huge computational resources and simulation time as well. In this study, a GPU version of Boussinesq equation model was implemented using the Compute Unified Device Architecture (CUDA) FORTRAN. The computed results of the GPU-CUDA FORTRAN Boussinesq model were verified by comparing with the computed result of a CPU based Boussinesq model that had been already verified for many benchmark tests. Exact agreements except round off magnitude have been observed from the comparison. The GPU-CUDA FORTRAN Boussinesq model showed about 20 times faster computational time compared with the CPU based code. In addition, as the computational domain becomes larger, the computational efficiency of GPU-CUDA FORTRAN version over the CPU version more increased.
Li, S.W.; Ji, Z.Z.; Wu, Q.W.; Zhang, H.Q., and Shi, Y., 2018. Estimation of forcing on silt curtain in a combined wave-current flow. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1181–1185. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Turbidity curtain is a kind of commonly-used impermeable device for temporal or long-term control of suspended solids or turbidity in the water column generated during dredging operations and disposing dredged spoils. This device composes of floater, ballast, and flexible curtain that is made of geosynthetic fabrics. In the case that all the curtain body, including the ballast, is in a floating status in the water, the tension induced in the curtain can be easily calculated. When the curtain is extended so long that the ballast is completely supported by the sea bottom, however, calculation becomes much more complicated when subject to combined waves and currents. The forcing on the curtain depends on both the water level difference between the two sides of the curtain and the waves and is a key factor for determining design parameters of the silt curtain, e.g. the thickness and strength of the curtain, diameter of the buoy and weight of the sinker. How to quantitatively estimate dynamic forces on this type of turbidity curtain has not been fully investigated. This study is proposed to develop analytical and numerical solutions to estimate dynamical forces on the silt curtain under currents, waves or combined current and waves.
Oh, J. and Suh, K.-D., 2018. Examining the Effect of Time Lags of Meteorological Variables on a Wave Forecasting Model. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1186–1190. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Since the last decade, wave forecasting using machine learning such as artificial neural networks (ANN) has been conducted. In this paper, a hybrid model is used, which was developed to forecast significant wave heights and periods by combining the empirical orthogonal function (EOF) analysis and wavelet analysis with the neural network (abbreviated as EOFWNN model). The EOF analysis enables the model to reflect the relationship between spatially distributed meteorological variables and waves to wave forecasting model and to forecast waves at multiple stations simultaneously. The wavelet analysis enables the ANN to deal with non-stationary data. The model is employed to forecast real-time waves at eight stations (Gangneung, Wangdolcho, Genkainada, Tottori, Fukui, Sakata, Aomori, Rumoi) in the East/Japan Sea for various lead times using the past observed wave height or period data and the past and future meteorological reanalysis data. In this study, to investigate the time lag effect of the meteorological data, the results of various time lags are compared. The performance of the model is evaluated by correlation coefficient, normalized root mean square error, and index of agreement. The results of the forecasted significant wave period showed high accuracy. The values of NRMSE for 24 hour lead time were between 0.038 and 0.069. The comparison of the results depending on the time lags of the meteorological variables showed slight difference in model accuracy but no significant difference in phase shift of the results.
Kim, W.; Yi, J.-H.; Min, I.K., and Shim, J.S., 2018. Monitoring of structural dynamic characteristics of Sochengcho Ocean Research Station. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1191–1195. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In order to study ocean and meteorological changes related to the global climate change and the global warming, Korea is operating several ocean research stations (ORS) such as Ieodo ORS, Gageocho ORS and Socheongcho ORS in remote ocean area. In July 2011, Typhoon Muifa directly hit the Gageocho ORS, and it was damaged to its structural members and various observation devices, unfortunately. After this, the Socheongcho ORS was constructed in 2014, and the structural health monitoring system was instrumented for studying the structural integrity under various external loading conditions. The purpose of this study is to investigate the structural dynamic characteristics of Socheongcho ORS using long-term measurement data including acceleration and tilt responses. Least-square based frequency domain decomposition method is utilized to estimate the natural frequencies and random decremental technique is utilized to estimate the damping ratios in this study. Two natural frequencies for the lower two bending modes are estimated as about 1.39 Hz and 1.43 Hz in weak and strong axes, respectively, and difference is not so significant because the overall shape is almost symmetrical except the superstructure. The natural frequency of the first twisting mode is obtained as about 1.51 Hz, which is slightly higher than the natural frequencies of the bending modes and it can be seen in general jacket structures. It is also found that, when the tilt and acceleration responses are larger, the damping ratios in first mode can be obtained more consistently with lower irregular fluctuations. The damping ratios are found around 5.5 % – 5.8 %. It is expected that the results from long term monitoring can contribute to ensure safe scientific activities by checking the structural safety level of Socheongcho ORS.
Kim, W.; Shin, J.; Kim, H.; Yi, B.-Y.; Park, C.; Kim, C.; Seo, G.; Cho, D.; Jung, Y.; Lee, H.-Y., and Kang, D.-H., 2018. Imaging the completely buried anomaly using a small-ship three-dimensional seismic survey system. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1196–1200. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Korea Institute of Geoscience and Mineral Resources (KIGAM) developed new small-ship 3D seismic survey system for detecting and imaging targets for engineering purposes. By securing the relative locations of receivers with a frame, the 3D seismic survey system EOS3D-Wing (Engineering Ocean Seismic 3 Dimension-Wing), was designed to extend several fixed receiver frames in the cross-line direction. Since it uses a small-ship, the EOS3D-Wing can be used even in shallow sea of 2 meters water depth. KIGAM demonstrated EOS3D-Wing on the shipwreck, entirely buried at 1–1.5 meters below the sea-floor, off the coast of the Mado Island (9 to 15 meters of water depth). By processing data appropriate for the EOS3D-Wing system, KIGAM obtained the corresponding 3D image successfully, which is especially easy to confirm the shape of the ship even with naked eyes and the image is consistent with the estimated shape after divers' groundwork using probes of several months. This shipwreck can not be detected by multi-beam, etc., that can image the 3D shape of sea floor only, because it is completely buried in the sea floor. Therefore, this system can be regarded as an innovative one for small-ship 3D exploration. This small-ship 3D seismic system belongs to scare and high-level technology so that only several cases have been reported until now. It is anticipated that EOS3D-Wing and approach provides ample geological information for coastal management, ocean development, and engineering projects in the future.
Xu, C.Y.; Chen, Y.P., and Yu, L.L., 2018. Numerical Studying on The Sedimentary Processes at A Mudflat Near Yangtze River. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1201–1205. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A two-phase model for studying the sedimentation processes is presented. The simple flocculation model is incorporated in the two-phase model to take account the flocculation effects on the settling velocity and thus the distribution of suspended sediment concentration. The model is applied to study the sedimentation processes at a mudflat and the suspended sediment concentration is presented and compared with measured data. The results show that it is important to include the flocculation effects in predicting the vertical profile of sediment concentration.
Yang, H., 2018. A Cost-Effective Ship Safety Data Transfer in Coastal Area.. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1206–1210. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Recent advances in information and communications technology (ICT) have improved ship safety management. Ships can be monitored and controlled remotely using ship-to-ship and ship-to-shore communications technologies. These methods entail the sharing of vessel status information to prevent ship-related accidents and increase safety. In coastal areas, most ships transmit and receive data via wireless communications networks based on radio frequency (RF), long-term evolution (LTE), satellite, and other technologies. RF-based and LTE-based networks can be utilized when the communications are within the range of dozens of kilometers. On the other hand, satellite-based networks cover the entire ocean, but the associated costs are very expensive. In this study, we propose a cost-effective ship data transfer scheme to guarantee reliable data transfer but also optimize communication costs via adaptive network selection. In the proposed scheme, RF-based and LTE-based networks are selected as the default modes to reduce costs. However, when a ship enters a radio shadow, it temporarily switches to satellite-based mode to guarantee data reliability. Therefore, it rarely transmits data over the satellite-based network, saving on communications costs. In an emergency, the data can be transmitted frequently without regard to costs to improve safety performance. To validate the performance of the proposed scheme, we performed several evaluations using the ns2 simulator. The results indicated that the proposed scheme guarantees reliable data transfer while also reducing communications costs.
Rollnic, M.; Costa, M.S.; Medeiros, P.R.L., and Monteiro, S.M., 2018. Tide Influence on Suspended Matter in an Amazonian Estuary. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 121–125. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The aim of this study is to check which tidal component (dispersive or diffuse) dominates suspended particulate matter transport (SPM) in the Mojuim River estuary. This estuary comprises the eastern sector of the Amazon coast, characterized by mangrove-vegetated tidal flats. Measurements of current intensity and direction, SPM, and tide level over a tidal cycle (13 h) were performed in a section of the lower estuary. Samplings were conducted in March (wet season) and September (dry season), 2014, during spring tide. The resulting transport and relative contribution of advective transport (SPM diffusion and dispersion) were calculated. Mojuim estuary has a macrotidal regime, with mean height of 4.9 m during spring tide and 3.2 m during neap tide. As it is a shallow environment, the water column is homogeneous, and hydrological parameters do not significantly vary along the water column. SPM ranged from 12 to 92 mg.L−1 during dry season and from 20.4 to 94.8 mg.L−1 during wet season. The highest SPM concentrations occurred during ebb tide, and this determined the maximum instantaneous transport, both during wet season (127.8 kg.s−1) and dry season (159 kg.s−1). This estuary is characterized as an exporter environment. During dry season, it had a residual transport of 4.1 kg.s−1 and a total transport of 191.9 tons downstream of the estuary. However, during wet season, it showed an inversion in advective transport due to equinoctial tidal influence, which caused a higher tidal prism thus resulting in a residual transport of 1.92 kg.s−1 and a total transport of 90 tons upstream of the estuary. The dominant SPM transport component downstream of the estuary was river discharge, whereas SPM transport upstream of the estuary was dominated by Stokes Transport.
Ko, S. H.; Hyeon, J. W.; Lee, S. J, and Lee, J. H., 2018. Observation of Surface Water Temperature and Wave Height at the Coast of Pohang using Wave Glider.. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1211–1215. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Wave Gliders were launched to observe the surface water temperature and wave height at Hwajin-ri and Josa-ri on the coast of Pohang for the 11 days from March 24th to April 3rd. Wave Gliders SV2 and SV3 were operated within a radius of 100 m at two sites at depths of about 30~40 m. Both vehicles were equipped with a weather sensor, wave height sensor, and camera. Additionally, a conductivity sensor was installed in the SV2. During the observation period, the average surface water temperature and significant wave height were 13.0°C and 0.7 m, respectively. The differences in the surface water temperatures and significant wave heights measured by the Wave Gliders and Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA) Wolpo buoy were within 0.5°C and 0.03 m, respectively. This study confirmed that Wave Gliders can be used in coastal locations with fast currents of about 0.5 to 1 m/s and at low depths of about 30 to 40 m.
S. Abbas Haghshenas, Sarmad Ghader, Daniel Yazgi, Edris Delkhosh, Nabiallah Rashedi Birgani, Azadeh Razavi Arab, Zohreh Hajisalimi, Mohammad Hossein Nemati, Mohsen Soltanpour, Morteza Jedari Attari
Haghshenas, S. A.; Ghader, S.; Yazgi, D.; Delkhosh, E.; Rashedi Birgani.; Razavi Arab, A.; N., Hajisalimi, Z., Nemati, M. H.; Soltanpour, M., and Jedari Attari, M., 2018. Iranian Seas Waters Forecast - Part I: An Improved Model for The Persian Gulf.. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1216–1220. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The present study aims to improve the accuracy of forecasted wind and wave data generated by a wind-wave forcasting system over the entire Persian Gulf and Strait of Hormuz. A forecasting system has been developed and calibrated for winds and waves in the study area based on available observations. The performance of the developed forecasting system is favorably in agreement with the measured data; however, the model has deficiencies in capturing extreme events in certain situations. Hence, the simulated wind data are modified using a corrective method to obtain an optimum correlation factor between the simulated results and observations. This set of data is adopted as the input for the 3rd generation WaveWatch III wave model to simulate a new set of forecasted wave data. The output wave data are compared with the observations to evaluate the accuracy of the simulated wave estimations over the Persian Gulf.
Ji, Z.Z.; You, Z.J.; Hou, Z.Q., and Wei, Y., 2018. Development of generalized model for estimation of sediment siltation in coastal waterways of China. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1221–1225. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal sediment siltation has long been a major problem for design and construction of coastal large-scale ports in the world. Silty sediment siltation often occurs in coastal waterways of China especially during storm events, in which silty sediment is stirred up from the seabed and re-suspended into the water column by storm-induced waves, and transported into the waterways by currents in three forms of suspended load, bedload and sheet-flow load. This study is to derive a generalized model for estimation of sediment siltation rates under both non-storm and storm conditions based on 6-year field data collected in the outer navigation channel of Huanghua Harbor. The sediment siltation data were collected by directly measuring the seabed elevation changes along the port navigation channel from 2002 to 2007. In analyzing the field data collected, a semi-empirical model between effective wind energy and sediment siltation rate is also presented, and found that the newly derived model yields satisfactory agreement with the siltation data collected during the coastal storm events.
Nie S.; Jiang Q.; Wang L.; Zhang J., and Liu P. 2018. A laboratory study of rheological properties of soft mud using a dynamic shear-controlled oscillatory viscometer.. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1226–1230. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The rheological properties of soft mud play an important role in studying the interaction between soft mud bed and water waves. In this study, a dynamic shear-controlled oscillatory viscometer that can generate sinusoidal oscillatory shear loads is developed to clarify the rheological responses of soft mud under the action of water waves. Pure commercial kaolinite and the in-situ soft mud taken from Lianyungang Port, China were used in the experiment. By changing the water content ratio of mud samples and the amplitude and period of oscillatory shear forces, more than 600 runs of laboratory tests were conducted. The experimental results indicate that, under oscillatory loads, kaolinite and natural soft mud show rheological similarities. Both the kaolinite and in-situ soft mud are characterized by the combined viscoelastic-plastic properties, and the rheological behaviors of the mud samples are significantly influenced by the water content ratio and load magnitude.
Wang, J.; Qu, Z.; Xu, Z.; Shim, J.S.; Liang, B., and Lee, D.Y., 2018. Measurement of Sediment Concentration of the Oscillatory Flow in the Surf- and Swash-zone.. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1231–1235. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The sediment transports near the bed need to be accurately observed to validate the existing models that are based on the empirical formula for the sediment flux and to develop more realistic morphology prediction model. One of the essential tasks for the evaluating the existing models and developing new one is the precise measurement of the sediment transport at swash zone without disturbing flow. Different methods in estimating the sediment transport rates at the surf-zone and swash-zone such as measuring the time evolution of the bed profile, sand ripple volume and migration speed are investigated and evaluated. To develop more reliable estimation of the sediment flux by measuring the vertical profiles of sediment concentration and velocity without disturbing the flow conditions, method of estimation of the vertical sediment concentration profile by detecting the backscattered light intensity using high quality camera was tested and evaluated. The problems of different methods in estimating the sediment flux are identified and discussed.
Park, W.S.; Won, D.H.; Seo, J.H., and Lee, B.W., 2018. Stability assessment formulas for an interlocking caisson breakwater under oblique wave conditions.. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp.1236–1240. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
As a countermeasure for improving the stability of conventional caisson breakwaters, a method has been proposed in which adjacent caissons are interlocked with each other to consecutively resist the abnormal wave forces. It is not possible to reasonably evaluate the stability of breakwaters that have been elongated by interlocking, especially for oblique waves, by using the current design criterion defined for breakwater sections. Therefore, it was studied the stability assessment formula of an interlocking caisson breakwater under oblique wave conditions, in this study. To maintain consistency in checking the stability, it was introduced a reduction factor which is defined as the ratio of the expected maximum force for an oblique wave to that for a perpendicular wave. Using the linear wave theory, the expected maximum force was calculated considering the effect of the phase difference of hydrodynamic pressures along a breakwater. On the other hand, Goda's pressure formula was adopted as a design pressure distribution in the vertical direction to consider nonlinearities and randomness of the design wave, reasonably. Based on these assumptions, safety assessment formulas of the breakwater were developed considering the phase effect between the horizontal and uplift forces. Numerical calculations show that the proposed assessment formula for the interlocking caisson breakwater gives reasonable results, i.e., the estimated stability increases, as the wave attack angle increases. To judge the validity of the results, indirectly, the stabilities were estimated for regular and irregular wave conditions, and the results were compared each other.
Lee, S.; Kim, H.; Park D., and Lim, H.S., 2018. Modelling shoreline evolution at Anmok Beach by using CST3D-WA, In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1241–1245. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Anmok Beach suffered heavy morphological and shoreline position changes since a submerged breakwater was constructed in October 2014. Straight shoreline changed into a S-shape shoreline after about 3 months, and mostly returned back towards the initial straight line after typhoon Goni in August 2015. Previous wave-average type flow and sediment transport equations cannot reproduce shoreline evolution due to their “wave-average” properties. A wave-average flow and sediment transport model, CST3D-WA, adopt the “beachface slope adjustment method” to enable shoreline evolution in area morphological modelling. The modelling system simulated the morphological change for two periods, and reproduced the changes in morphology and shoreline shape of the two periods reasonably well.
Lee, G. N.; Lee, I. K., and Kim, D. H., 2018. Reliability Analysis of the Long Caisson Breakwater Considering to the Wave Force Reduction Parameter.. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1246–1250. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
If a breakwater is longer than a full design wave, maximum design wave force does not attack over the full span of the breakwater. Therefore, design wave load can be decreased compared with short modular caisson. This study is to grasp the influence of the wave force reduction effect on the failure probability and to confirm how much the stability is secured compared with the existing modular breakwater. Therefore, reliability analysis of long caisson breakwater and existing modular caisson breakwater was performed. As a result, the reliability index of the long caisson breakwater was higher than that of the existing modular caisson breakwater, and it was confirmed that the significant wave height of the design variables had the highest influence. In addition, the reliability analysis was performed according to the change of the mean value of the variables used in the calculation of the wave force reduction parameter. It is confirmed that the relationship between each variable value and the wave force reduction parameter appears in the analysis results.
Cokgor, S. and Durmus, O., 2018. 3D experimental analysis of turbulence induced scour in front of the ruble mound breakwater. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1251–1255. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Laboratory data of velocity fields in front of a 45° angled side of a rubble-mound breakwater are presented and discussed for non-breaking wave condition. Velocity measurements were conducted near the breakwater by an acoustic Doppler velocimeter (Nortek Vectrino) regular wave. The raw data were analyzed by using a numerical-filtering scheme so that turbulent fluctuations are separated from the phase-dependent wave motions. Root mean square (RMS) values of the turbulent fluctuations in the vertical and horizontal directions were obtained. The spatial variations of the turbulent shear stress and of the turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) in front of the breakwater were determined. The results indicate that turbulent intensities take larger values when the wave contracts over the breakwater. On the other hand, maximum turbulent shear stress values were observed near the breakwater surface, as a consequence of the rough surface effect.
Ferreira, C.; Silva, P.A.; Fernández-Fernández, S.; Baptista, P.; Abreu, T.; Romão, S.; Fontán-Bouzas, A.; Bertin, X., and Garrido, C. 2018. Wave Climate Definition on Modeling Morphological Changes in Figueira da Foz Coastal System (W Portugal). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp.1256–1260. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Field surveys at Figueira da Foz coastal system, a jettied river-mouth located to the W of Portugal, show a high impact of storm events on the morphological evolution of the ebb-tidal delta, with formation of a submerged sandbar and the quick infill of dredged areas. Non-stormy wave conditions produce minor morphological changes. The morphodynamic modeling of this system is being done to support coastal management. The methodology uses Delft3D modeling system that was previously calibrated for this coastal region. Modeling scenarios are set by considering two initial bathymetric situations, i.e., with or without an excavation site resulting from dredging operation. In order to investigate the relations between the computational efficiency and the time series of the input wave data, some tests were performed including a month with a total of 70% of storms and other with 10%, approximately. For each period it was studied the whole month period and only the storms. Numerical results disclose similar patterns of morphological evolution for both complete and storm periods simulated. Nevertheless, the omission of lower wave energy conditions slightly covers up the volume of sediment accretion in the area. This volume of sediment accretion masking effect is higher in the dredging case study, since dredged area acts as a sink of sediment. The results demonstrated that morphodynamic simulations should include the whole set of waves recorded to achieve more accurate estimations of sediment transport rates and corresponding sediment balance.
Kim, M.-J.; Kim, C.-S.; Choi, B.-J., and Lee, S.-H., 2018. Plume Current Change by Seawall Construction for a Harbor Development in South Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 126–130. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The present study investigates the effects of a seawall construction on the nearfield plume dispersal and surface circulation in the west coast of Korea where the Saemangeum tide dike (33 km long) had been constructed from 1993 to 2006 to reclaim the wide tidal flat in the riverine estuary. The plume water has since flowed out by the gate operation from the two sluices (11 km apart) in the southern dike to the offshore, which altered source location of the plume in the coastal sea. Recently a 3.5 km long seawall was constructed at 4 km offshore from the northern sluice. The changes of the plume current and surface circulation near the newly constructed seawall were examined using data set of High Frequency Radar-derived current (HFR-current), wind and sluice-outflow velocity in summer 2010 (before the seawall construction) and summer 2014 (under the seawall construction). It was found that construction of seawall evidently changed tidal plume dispersal pattern and nearfield distribution of monthly-mean plume current. Complex correlation and Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analyses on the subinertial surface current, wind, and sluice-outflow velocity in summer 2010 and summer 2014 revealed that wind and outflow velocity are dominant factors controlling variations of the plume extension and coastal current.
Moreno, L.; Negro, V.; Garrote, L.; Muñoz-Pérez, J.J.; López, J.S., and Esteban, M.D., 2018. An Engineering Method For The Preliminary Functional Design Of Perched Beaches. Theoretical Approach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1261–1265. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Perched beaches are an attractive nourishment design alternative especially when either the site conditions or the characteristics of both the native and the borrow sands lead to a non-intersecting profile. The observation and suggestion of the use of this type of coastal defense scheme dates back to the 1960's, as well as the international experience in its construction. However, in spite of its use and the field and laboratory studies performed to-date, no design engineering guidance is available to support its design. Key dimensionless parameters that will be able to explain the performance of perched beaches have been identified, linking basic design variables such as: the wave height and period, the crest width and height, the depth at the toe of the sill, and the sand settling velocity. An engineering 4-step conceptual design method has been anticipated. This work will be expanded by systematic mobile-bed physical model tests - to be performed in a 36 × 3 × 1.5 m wave flume -, with the goal of producing engineering preliminary functional design guidelines of perched beaches based on the key dimensionless parameters herein identified.
Sandra Fernández-Fernández, Paulo A. Silva, Caroline Ferreira, Américo S. Ribeiro, Tiago Abreu, Soraia Romão, Paulo Baptista, Ángela Fontán-Bouzas, João M. Dias, Carlos Coelho, Cristina Bernardes
Fernández-Fernández, S.; Silva, P.A.; Ferreira, C.; Ribeiro, A.S.; Abreu, T.; Romão, S.; Baptista, P.; Fontán-Bouzas, A.; Dias, J.M..; Coelho, C., and Bernardes, C. 2018. Assessment of Dredging/Dumping Scenarios for Figueira da Foz Coastal Region (W Portugal). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1266–1270. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Figueira da Foz coastal region (W Portugal), that comprises sandy beaches and the Mondego estuary-inlet, is exposed to the high energetic wave climate of the North Atlantic Ocean, which induces important local morphological changes. These changes entail shoaling problems as the formation of a submerse sandbar at the inlet which can block navigation towards local harbor. Therefore, coastal dredging is a non-structural temporal solution for this problem. Nevertheless, dredging activities have an impact on local hydrodynamic processes that should be known beforehand. The aim of this study is to clarify this issue using modeling tools dedicated to help stakeholders in decision making process. For that purpose, Delft3D-WAVE module propagates the most representative regional wave conditions under four dredging scenarios including the respective dump areas. Additionally, Delft3D-FLOW module simulates tidal flows along spring and neap tides. The hydrodynamic parameters, significant wave height, orbital velocity, wave-induced currents, tidal current velocity and total sediment transport are analyzed in comparison with numerical solutions obtained in reference scenario (no dredging and no dumping). The results highlight changes in these hydrodynamic parameters in dredging and dumping areas as well as in surrounded areas. Different scenarios draw a similar change pattern for different parameters, namely a reduction of flow velocity intensity within dredged areas and their increase in adjacent areas. Furthermore, hydrodynamic alterations intensify in response to the increase in significant wave height and wave direction considered. These findings are the basis for understanding the influence of dredging and dumping operations on the hydrodynamic of this coast.
Lee, S.C.; Choi, J.Y.; Park, K.S.; Kim, S,-S.; Kim, S,J., and Jun, K.C, 2018. Use of Optical Video Imagery to Improve Wave run-up Prediction Accuracy. Assessing the economic value of beach restoration: Case of Song-do Beach, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp.1271–1275. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
On the eastern coast of Korea, wave run-up occurrences have induced several accidents causing damage to human life. To prevent the occurrence of casualties in coastal areas, the breakwater disaster alert system has been employed, which issues a warning based on an estimate of the incident-wave height. This estimate of wave height is obtained through numerical solution of an empirical formula derived from the relationship between incident-wave and run-up heights. By utilizing the empirical formula and wave forecast, the breakwater disaster alert system has been successfully employed in the Sokcho, Samcheok, and Jumunjin regions in the Republic of Korea. This study proposes wave height-based modifications to the above empirical formula through use of additional datasets recorded during the period from November 2016 to June 2017. These datasets concerning wave height and wave period were recorded at the Jumunjin ports by P-gage. Simultaneously, run-up heights at this port was estimated via video images. Using the recorded dataset, a number of high run-up events were selected, and from the video recorded for each of these events, individual image frames were sequentially sampled and rectified into real world coordinates. Run-up properties estimated from the extracted signal record for run-up reference level points were combined with measurements of incident waves in order to derive an empirical relation between incident waves and run-up heights. By employing the modified empirical formula, accuracy in run-up height prediction has been found to be improved.
Jang, W.S.; Park, H.S, and Park, S.G., 2018. Analysis of Positioning Accuracy of PPP, VRS, DGPS in Coast and Inland Water Area of South Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1276–1280. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Various research activities are being conducted every year in the coastal and inland water areas of Korea. Among them, location accuracy is very important for coastline change survey, depth survey, and coastal route analysis. VRS and DGPS are commonly used in coastal and inland areas. VRS is a type of Network RTK that offers high location accuracy and ease of use. However, due to the limitations of the Network RTK method, VRS is not able to significantly degrade or use its location accuracy unless the survey area is located within the network. On the other hand, DGPS has a position accuracy of about 1m, which is lower than that of VRS. However, DGPS is widely used for location measurement in the coastal area due to its wide service range. PPP is the most recently developed satellite positioning method. PPP can be used anywhere in Korea, like DGPS, while providing accuracy similar to VRS's positioning accuracy. However, PPP is still an early stage positioning technology and has a long convergence time to show high positioning accuracy and high complexity of use. Therefore, it is not used for research activities in actual coastal and inland water. In this paper, we present our PPP positioning system and analyze the results of PPP using our PPP positioning system, VRS and DGPS positioning presented in coastal and inland areas of Korea. In this paper, we compare and analyze the accuracy of three positioning methods and present the results.
Park, K.-Y., 2018. Nonlinear Interaction among Wave, Current and Submerged Breakwater. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1281–1285. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Nonlinear wave interaction with a uniform current is described using numerical model, named CADMAS-SURF This model is based on the Navier-Stokes equations coupled with Volume of Fluid for tracking free surface deformation and developed for interaction of wave with structure. The CADMAS-SURF is extended to simulate nonlinear fluid dynamic motions on the wave-current coexisting field. The capability of Numerical Wave-Current Tank (NWCT) is validated by comparing with available experimental data for both wave-following and wave-opposing current. The numerical results are shown to be in good agreement with experimental data. In addition, this study investigated on the dynamic motions of the water velocity, surface elevation and vorticity within combined wave-current field in demonstrating complex nonlinear physical phenomena due to interaction. Furthermore, NWCT is applied to simulate a more complex wave-current-structure field for wave propagating over a submerged breakwater associated with current.
Esteban, M.D.; López-Gutiérrez, J.S.; Negro, V; Laviña, M., and Muñoz-Sánchez, P., 2018. A New Classification of Wave Energy Converters Used for Selection of Devices. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1286–1290. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Wave is one of the marine renewable energy sources with the greatest potential. Currently, the technology is not completely prepared for a commercial development and its levelized cost of energy (LCOE) is still high. In fact, there are numerous types of wave energy converters (WECs) in the development phase. Given the differences between them, there are several classifications based on different aspects such as the location in relation to the distance to the coast and the bathymetry, the position relative to the sea level, the size and orientation, and the energy capture principle. However, none of the existing classifications considers the operating range at rated power according to the power matrix of the devices. This paper includes a new proposal for classification of WECs, named OPERAWEC (Operation Waver Energy Converters), with the aim of covering that gap. A methodology to implement the classification to different WECs is proposed, and that methodology is applied to ten different existing WECs (Wave Dragon, Pelamis, Aquabuoy, Archimedes Wave Swing, Oyster, Oceantec, OE Buoy, Pontoon, Seabed AB and Wavebob), classifying them into six different groups (Group I, Group II, Group III, Group IV, Group V and Group VI). Most of them belong to the Group IV and/or Group V, and some of them are categorised into several groups. The paper ends showing how to apply OPERAWEC classification as a part of a screening process for WECs selection in the Spanish Atlantic coast. Wave resource is assessed in two specific locations (Estaca de Bares and Golfo de Cádiz), considering four WECs (Pelamis, Aquabuoy, Archimedes Wave Swing, and Oyster). According OPERAWEC classification, Group II WECs for Estaca de Bares, and Group I and Group II WECs for Golfo de Cádiz are recommended.
López-Gutiérrez, J.S.; Esteban, M.D., and Negro, V., 2018. Wave Energy Potential Assessment and Feasibility Analysis of Wave Energy Converters. Case Study: Spanish Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp.1291–1295. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Wave energy is one of the marine renewable energy types, essential to achieve a sustainable development. Coastal countries need to know the wave energy potential along their coasts, so its contribution to the future electricity market is estimated. Spain has noticeable variations in its average wave climate, so it is essential to analyse numerous locations. For research purposes, wave energy potential is estimated based on data from the 15 Spanish State Port buoys currently in operation in deep waters. Because these buoys were set up at different times, with some moored around 2005, the sample between 2005 and 2015 is studied with the purpose of comparing results. REDEXT buoys, arranged from highest to lowest wave energy potential, are: Villano-Sisargas (56.84 kW/m), Cabo Silleiro (53.50 kW/m), Estaca de Bares (53.36 kW/m), Cabo de Peñas (39.66 kW/m), Bilbao-Vizcaya (39.09 kW/m), Gran Canaria (23.71 kW/m), Mahón (16.21 kW/m), Cabo de Begur (13.95 kW/m), Golfo de Cádiz (12.70 kW/m), Dragonera (10.16 kW/m), Cabo de Gata (8.43 kW/m), Cabo de Palos (8.17 kW/m), Tenerife Sur (6.93 kW/m), Tarragona (6.14 kW/m) and Valencia (5.42 kW/m). Some buoys were moored in the 1990s allowing an analysis to be made of how the average wave climate has changed over the last years. Furthermore, a study is undertaken analysing the feasibility of different wave energy converters, specifically Pelamis 750 kW, Oyster 300 kW, Aquabuoy 250 kW, and SSG 20,000 kW, in the 15 buoy locations. Energy production and the capacity factor of all devices for the 15 locations are calculated, obtaining as a result that the most suitable device for all the locations studied is Oyster, and the least suitable is SSG. All the results are shown in different comparative tables and figures, with a summary of the most emphasizing information in each buoy.
Peng, W.; Fan, Y., and Zhang, J., 2018. Numerical study on optimization of the float in a shoreline wave energy converter.. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1296–1300. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In this paper, the hydrodynamic performance of the float in a shoreline wave energy converter is investigated under regular waves. A numerical model is built based on the Navier-Stokes solver coupled with immersed boundary method, volume of fluid method and the mechanics model of float. Making use of the laboratory measurements, the numerical model has been proved to be a reliable tool in reproducing wave deformations and the dynamics of the float. Then, the model is employed to test the sensibility of float performance to changes in some variables under various waves: spacing between breakwater and float, length of float. From numerical estimations, it can be concluded that the nondimensional motion amplitude of float will decrease with the increasing float length or spacing between breakwater and float. With different loads, the dynamic of float shows different variation trend against the length of float, which implies further investigations may be needed in the future on the effect of power take-off damping load. Last but not the least, the interactions between water waves and two types of floats (rectangle and convex) are simulated and discussed. With the help of snapshots of water particle velocity field and the water surface profile from numerical calculation, the flow pattern and external forces from the fluid field acting on the float can be estimated. Then, the motion amplitudes of floats are computed and compared, and the convex floats are proved to capture more power than the rectangular ones.
Ko, D.H.; Park, J.-S., and Lee, K.-S., 2018. Assessment of tidal current energy potential at Uldolmok in the southwestern coast of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1301–1305. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Quantitative assessment for the tidal current energy potential and marine conditions should be preceded to construct the optimal tidal energy farm. Assessment of tidal energy resource at Uldolmok which is the optimal candidate sites for tidal energy farm was carried out. In order to collect the field data, static survey using ADCP(Acoustic Doppler Current Profiler) was conducted and harmonic analysis was done to predict the annual tidal current. As a result, the dominant direction of ebb current was southeast and flood current was northwest. The maximum ebb current speed was about 4.09 m/s. While, annual power density was estimated as 56.78MWh/m2. 1MW(HS 1000), 1.2MW(MCT 1200), 1.5MW(AR 1500), 2MW(SeaGen-S 2000) that were commercially available turbines in the world were used to calculate the annual energy production. SeaGen-S was possible to produce the highest annual energy production up to 9,338.4MWh. These results can be used to establish a plan for the development of the tidal current energy farm.
Park, Y.H., 2018. The Application of Dynamic Tidal Power in Korea In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1306–1310. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Tidal power is attractive as a predictable renewable energy, but it requires a high tidal range. The west coast of Korea is a place where the extreme tidal range is observed, so various studies have been conducted. The largest tidal power, Sihwa Tidal Power Station was successfully built and operated there. However, subsequent projects have been postponed or cancelled due to environmental issues. Dynamic Tidal power (DTP) is an alternative way to a conventional tidal barrage system. Because DTP has to be a huge structure to produce diffraction of tides, it was tested by a numerical model. The 2D numerical model ADCIRC was used in the simulation. DTP was simulated in the largest tidal range of the Korean coast and it was examined in various ways. DTP generates power by the phase difference of tide and it is available even in a small tidal range. The tidal difference between the front and back of DTP becomes maximized on 180 degrees out of phase theoretically. Though the phase difference also increased with the length of DTP structure, it could not reach 180 degrees out of phase even at the DTP length of 50 km. Because the length of DTP structure should be longer than tens of kilometers considering the length of tide, it may cause economic and environmental issues. The phase difference was varied along DTP and it was increasing as the location of measurement moved closer to the coast. When the required length of DTP is optimized, it would be more practical. The study focused on the reduction of the DTP length and some shapes were suggested finally.
Alonso, R.; Solari, S., and Teixeira, L., 2018. Erosion Problem on a Fluvial Beach. The Case Study of “La Concordia” in the Uruguay River. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 131–135. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A case study of beach erosion at “La Concordia” is presented. It is a fluvial beach located in the most downstream stretch of the Uruguay River. Despite it is a fluvial environment, the 10 km width that the river has in this zone allows for the generation of wind-waves that play an important role in the morphological processes that shape its sandy margins. This was initially proven by assessing the evolution of the coastline from satellite images and aerial photos, since the main change observed in the coastline is the expected one when groins are built on a sea coast. After that, the predominant influence of waves was confirmed by: 1) a good agreement between the geometry of the system (i.e. plan-shape and profiles) with the one predicted by formulations conceived from wave dominated marine environments, 2) a cross–section river flow velocity distribution, calculated for an historical maximum discharge, that shows that outside of the river channels velocities are lower than the critical expected for bottom sediment transport, 3) an estimation of the littoral transport in agreement with the historical coastline evolution. This verification supports the use of models and methods commonly employed in coastal engineering for the study of this type of fluvial beaches. In this case, the numerical model XBeach was used to simulate the response of the system to extreme events, in order to provide an input to a beach nourishment design.
Park, M.-S.; Jeong, Y.-J., and Kim, J., 2018. Experimental test of 3kW cylindrical wave energy system with horizontal rotation. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1311–1315 Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Since the potential of wave energy has been recognized for long and mostly associated with a nondestructive renewable energy, the wave energy has gained attention from many countries to find alternative and reliable energy sources. In the present study, 3kW cylindrical wave energy system with horizontal rotation is newly suggested. The suggested cylindrical wave energy system is composed of the horizontal cylinder, the swing plate and the yawing body. In order to verify the efficiency of cylindrical wave energy system, the experimental test is carried out using 3D wave basin for various parameters. The rotation speed of horizontal cylinder is strongly depended on the height of draft and the distance between the horizontal cylinder and the swing plate, and the period of swing plate is closely related to the period of incident wave. It is found that the suggested cylindrical wave energy system has more wave power available for a wide range of incident wave frequencies.
Kim, J.; Park, M.S., and Jeong, Y.J., 2018. Integration analysis and evaluation of new hybid 3kW ocean wave energy extraction system. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1316–1320. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study introduces a new hybrid wave energy extraction system and evaluates its technical feasibility by using experimental and numerical approaches. Although there are several type of wave energy extraction devices, such as an attenuator and an overtopping device, these have difficulties related to damages and variability due to water. The proposed system is designed to overcome the shortcoming of the previous system and to provide higher power efficiency; the proposed system is composed of a floating shield cylinder surrounding a generator, pendulum plates to accelerate rotation of generator and generate electricity itself, and a support column with self-positioning devices to fix the entire power generation system to the seabed and to enhance its power generation efficiency. To examine the performance characteristics of the system, mechanical and hydrodynamic interactions among the cylinder, the plates, and the support column was investigated numerically. Furthermore, for the hybrid system, an application of sequentially hydrodynamic-mechanical analysis techniques, in which the distribution and the magnitude of the predicted water pressure were then mapped into the finite element model of the extraction system, were reviewed. The interaction behaviors of the extraction system which includes large motions are also analyzed.
Manuel Gerardo Verduzco-Zapata, Aramis Olivos-Ortiz, Marco Liñán-Cabello, Christian Ortega-Ortiz, Marco Galicia-Pérez, Chris Matthews, Omar Cervantes-Rosas
Verduzco-Zapata, M.G.; Olivos-Ortiz, A.; Liñán-Cabello, M.; Ortega-Ortiz, C.; Galicia-Pérez, M.; Matthews, C., and Cervantes-Rosas, O., 2018. Development of a Desalination System Driven by Low Energy Ocean Surface In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1321–1325. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
As an effort to mitigate the water scarcity and to achieve a water security status in remote coastal communities with few or no hydraulic systems, or in places with compromised services due to natural disasters, a new semi-portable wave driven desalination device is being developed and tested using a state of the art numerical model. In this early stage of development, the main challenge is to further optimize mechanisms that allow to adjust to tidal and wave variations and to efficiently resist the stresses exerted by cycle motions. The solution is partially handled through the use of a taut-line mooring mechanism which allows the device to work at large range of wave conditions. This prototype consists of two subsystems: a point absorber WEC conformed by a single buoy, and a standard reverse osmosis (RO) system. When interacting with the incoming waves, the mooring line is pulled and pressurizes seawater enough to drive it through several filters including the RO membranes. The FLOW-3D numerical model was used to test the efficiency of the WEC subsystem under several sea states associated with low energy wave conditions. The displacements and motions of the WEC as well as the forces in its anchor line were calculated. The results suggest that it provides the necessary force to pressurize the seawater for the desalination process. Further testing is needed to improve the reliability and survivability of the system which in turn will help to scale the prototype in order to obtain greater quantities of freshwater and thus be competitive with other technologies.
Wang, H.; Zhai, Q.; Hou, J., and Xia, L., 2018. Numerical investigation on the vortex-induced vibration of a flexible plate behind a circular cylinder. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1326–1330. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Vortex-induced vibration (VIV) of piezoelectric cantilever plate can convert the kinetic energy of flow into electricity effectively, and this technique has become a new research focus in the field of ocean energy harvesting and utilization over the past few years. It is known that the lock-in effect existing in VIV phenomenon can significantly broaden the structural resonance region, and improve the flow energy harvesting efficiency. The present study aims to investigate the VIV responses of a flexible plate located in the wake of a circular cylinder using a strongly coupled finite element model. Numerical simulations are conducted for two typical plate lengths (L/D = 2.0, 4.0; D is the cylinder diameter) within a wide range of gap spacings 0.5 ≤ S/D ≤ 4.0. Generally, the results show that with the increase of gap spacing, the gap flow pattern changes from vortex suppression state to vortex shedding state. For L/D = 2.0, “soft” lock-in occurs all through the examined gap spacing range, among which the plate vibrates with significant amplitude. For L/D = 4.0, the lock-in region is found to be S/D ≤ 2.0, characterized by large-amplitude resonance and vortex suppression in the gap; however, with the appearance of the gap vortex shedding, the vibration becomes negligible at S/D ≥ 2.5. The pressure distribution of fluid along the upper and lower sides of the plate is analyzed to reveal the dynamic coupling mechanism between the flow and plate. This study will provide useful theoretical reference for optimum design of the VIV energy harvesting device.
Yu, H.T.; Bai, Z.G.; Zhao, C.J.; Wang, W.L.; Ma, X., and Yang, W., 2018.. Experimental Studies on Performances of Capsule Type Wave Energy Generation System under Action of Waves. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp.1331–1335. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Ocean wave energy is a kind of clean, renewable and potential energy. Thus it is significant to develop and to design efficient wave power device. In the present study, a novel wave energy collection and conversion device that made of flexible material is proposed. The wave energy generation system is realized by using a half cylinder flexible tube with full of water laying on the flume bottom and aligning in the wave traveling direction, and an air chamber connecting at the tail of flexible tube. The bulge waves in the tube were generated under the excitation of free surface waves, and propagated toward the tail of flexible tube, and subsequently converted to available energy through the effects of oscillating water column in the air chamber. The present study will focus on the conversion rate of flexible capsule type wave energy generation system with different pre-set internal static head and chamber aperture when subject to different wave conditions through a series of experiment tests. The experimental results indicate that the flexible capsule has a wonderful ability to collect and convert ocean wave energy. It is also found that the design of air chamber has significant influences on the wave energy conversion rate.
Felix, A.; Mendoza, E.; Chávez, V.; Silva, R., and Rivillas-Ospina, G. 2018. Wave and Wind Energy Potential Including Extreme Events: A Case Study of Mexico. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp.1336–1340. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The available wind and wave energy potential of the coasts of Mexico was found to be low in several analyses. However, these analyses considered only average conditions. To adequately assess the energy potential of Mexican coasts for energy extraction, it is necessary to characterize maritime weather and to define both normal and storm thresholds. For the present study, a 60-year historical analysis of wave and wind conditions along the Mexican coasts was performed. A statistical analysis of extreme conditions was carried out using the peaks-over-threshold approach. Also, seasonal (winter, spring, summer and autumn) and hourly available power were included in the analysis. The differences between the energy potentials when including and excluding extreme events are considerable. The energy potential of events occurring along the Mexican coasts confirms that energy can be adequately and profitably obtained from waves and wind. The greatest energy potential in the Atlantic is found to the northeast of the Yucatan Peninsula and in the Pacific along the Baja California Peninsula. Winter is the best season for energy extraction, while summer is the most unfavorable season.
Hur, D.S.; Jeong, Y.M.; Lee, J.L.; Kim, I.H., and Lee, W.D., 2018. Energy generation efficiency due to wave overtopping on floating-overflow-type wave energy converter. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1341–1345. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The current heightened interest in renewable energy motivated this investigation into the efficiency of wave power generation, which can produce electricity from the infinite energy source of ocean waves. The subject chosen was a floating-overflow-type wave energy converter (FOWEC), which is a comparatively simple type of power generation equipment among the various types of wave power equipment. Because FOWEC is a floating body, it functions not only for power generation, but also as a floating breakwater. In this study's hydraulic model experiments, FOWEC time waveforms were measured, and the reflection and transmission coefficients were computed. In addition, the outflow velocity from the FOWEC overtopping water tank was measured and compared with the theoretical value. The results confirmed that the FOWEC exhibited some degree of wave control in its role as a floating breakwater. The freeboard for the overtopping waves on the lowest FOWEC had an average wave reflection coefficient of 0.43 and an average wave transmission coefficient of 0.21. As wave overtopping increased (as the freeboard decreased and the incident wave height increased), the effective velocity ratio of the outflow from the overtopping tank increased. However, as the freeboard decreased, the effective head decreased, and therefore the energy that could be received was smaller than when the freeboard was higher. In order to maximize the generation efficiency, conditions that allow for overtopping should be implemented with a FOWEC that can maintain an optimal freeboard for appropriate wave overtopping and effective head.
Lee, K.H. and Kim, T.G., 2018. Three-dimensional Numerical Simulation of Airflow in Oscillating Water Column Device. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1346–1350. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
An Oscillating Water Column (OWC) is a wave energy converting technology that uses the compressed and decompressed airflow induced by the vertical oscillations of water column inside the chamber as a driving force of an airflow turbine. In this study, three-dimensional numerical simulations of a bottom-fixed OWC are performed to understand the interaction of an OWC device with regular waves. The open-source CFD model REEF3D is used, which is able to consider immiscible two-phases (air and water) using the Reynolds-averaged Navier-Stokes equations. The simulation capability of REEF3D is validated by comparison with experimental data for wave deformations caused by the OWC and air-flow fields and the airflow velocity in the chamber. The numerical results revealed that the CFD numerical tool REEF3D can successfully simulate wave deformations caused by wave-OWC interactions, and directly estimate an air velocity inside the chamber. In addition, it was found that a phase difference occurs between time series of free surface evolution and air velocity evolution.
He, X.; Tang, Y.G.; Liu L.Q., and Zhang, R.Y., 2018. Design of the Mooring System for a Floating Wave Energy Converter. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1351–1355. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The mooring system is important for a floating wave energy converter since it provides a positioning function and significantly affects the motion characteristics of the wave energy converter. In the present study, a novelty mooring system, which works as a single point mooring assisted with a yaw-restrain system, is proposed. Based on a potential flow theory, a numerical study is carried out. The response amplitudes induced by the wave under different incident angles are presented. The numerical study shows that the incident angle is a key factor of the motion amplitude, and that for each special wavelength, there is an optimal incident angle. A coupled analysis is carried out for the wave energy converter with its mooring system. A controlling method is presented for a given incident angle.
Deidun, A.; Gauci, A.; Azzopardi, J.; Camilleri, C.; Cutajar, D.; Chalabreysse, M., and Trinquard, F., 2018. Development of a Novel Tool for the Monitoring of Shipping Traffic Within the Strait of Sicily (Central Mediterranean): the BIODIVALUE AIS Vessel Tracker. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1356–1360. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Straits of Sicily within the Central Mediterranean is one of the most intensely frequented areas within the Basin by shipping traffic. This makes the tracking of such traffic all the more instrumental in mitigating possible detrimental environmental impacts. Against this background, the BIODIVALUE (an EU-funded project) vessel traffic interface has been developed, which allows the user to define a number of preferences within queries submitted to the same interface, such as distance from the Maltese shoreline of vessel records, typology of vessel, time window of requested vessel position records and whether vessel is anchored or in transit. The web-based interface provides operational ship position data for Maltese waters and historical equivalent data for the waters around the central Mediterranean island of Lampedusa and the ports of Augusta and Catania in Sicily. Outputs are generated as overlays on Google Maps, with the possibility of retrieving specific information (such as MMSI [Maritime Mobile Service Identity], ETA [Expected Arrival Time], vessel name, destination, vessel type, IMO number) on each ship position. A three-year-long AIS dataset for Maltese waters has been assessed through a MATLAB script in order to generate useful metadata (e.g. ship dimensions, speed, draught, direction) for different categories of shipping traffic in the form of visual plots and tables. The BIODIVALUE vessel traffic interface is a useful spatial tool to maritime stakeholders and decision-makers in the management of shipping traffic and its impacts by assisting in the identification of major shipping routes and characterisation of different bunkering areas.
Yao, J. and Tao, J., 2018. An Investigation of the Mixing and Exchange Characteristics in Tidal Channels of Radial Sand Ridges in the South Yellow Sea, China. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 136–140. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model coupled with a Lagrangian particle tracking model was applied in the radial sand ridges (RSR) area of the South Yellow Sea to investigate the flow and mass exchange characteristics between different channels. The Xiyang (XY), Chenjiawucao (CJWC), Kushuiyang (KSY) and Huangshayang (HSY) channels were chosen to represent the channels in all directions. The results showed that during the neap tides at both the surface and bottom locations, the particles were limited in their respective channels characterized by similar reciprocating trajectories. During the spring tides, the particles moved along reciprocating straight lines or in a clockwise spiral. The vertical circulation and water exchange in the tidal channels were significant, coinciding with the movement patterns of the particles. The hydrodynamic characteristics of the RSR are responsible for the significant differences of the transport characteristics in different channels. The XY Channel is controlled by the reciprocating flow, while others are dominated by varying degrees of rotary flow. The special geomorphology also plays an important role. The outcomes of this study may provide theoretical support for environmental management regarding the RSR area.
Kang, H., Chun, I., and Oh, B., 2018. Estimation of the Depth of Closure Near Gangneung Port in Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1361–1365. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Various methods to cope with coastal erosion have been tried in the East Coast of Korea, among which the regional sediment management (RSM) is now being perceived as a very efficient way for managing limited sand resources in a macroscopic scale in both time and space. To apply RSM, it is necessary to set up the littoral cell, a control volume concept whose offshore boundary is given by the depth of closure (DOC). In this study, an independent littoral cell near Gangneung Port was set up, and a method to determine its DOC was proposed and applied utilizing the existing data of deep-water wave climate. Within the method, several formulas were tested, and the results showed that that the average DOC of the study area varied from 10 m to 52 m depending on sediment size, wave condition, and the formula used. Finally, the Hallermeier's formula of outer DOC was postulated to give a reasonable DOC of the Gangneung littoral cell.
Wang, W.; Huang L.; Ma, J.; Wei, Q., and Guo, Z., 2018. Optimizing the Number of Anchorages Based on Simulation Model of Port-channel-anchorage Composite System. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1366–1370. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This paper establishes a progressive optimization-based simulation model for the port-channel-anchorage composite system based on two types of navigation rules for optimizing the number of anchorages. This model determine firstly the value range of the number of anchorages, then find the feasible combinations of the number of anchorages, and finally determine the best combination based on the analysis of comprehensive cost. By taking a large coastal port in China as a case port, this paper presents how to determine the number of anchorages for 300,000-ton berths based on two types of commonly used navigation rules. The case analysis shows that the change of the number of anchorages dedicated to one vessel type not only has a large direct effect on the number of vessels of this type waiting for anchoring, but also indirectly affect the number of vessels of other types waiting for anchoring. This paper also compares the performance differences of the two navigation rules.
Yoon, J.C. and Song, D.S., 2018. Preliminary Study for Detecting of Ocean Wave Parameters using CCD Images. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1371–1375. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Recently, researchers have been developed the technology for monitoring in the coastal zone using a remote sensing to manage and analyze the beach processes. Many of these approaches translate the data model of beach process as a queue of avoidance of emergency situation in a beach, such as coastal erosion risk management. However, sensor-based approaches have a crucial limitation, which needs a high cost and has a worry about malfunction. To overcome these problems, a video-based beach monitoring system, which can analyze the wave periods and height, was introduced in this study. A CCD camera is one of best choice to monitor a movement of arbitrary behaviour, because it has a several benefits, especially it does not need high cost equipment, then other sensor-based approach relatively, and has a strong resistance to the external environment except for light. The ocean wave change in CCD image clips, when it reaches the shallow water contains an extreme discontinuity, especially a change in the shape of marine space. So our system extracted the contour of video patches in an each frame and then compared their shape using the seven Hu-moments. The Hu-moments constitute a measure of the similarity of the matrix form between video frames. The radial symmetric kernel was applied to the similarity matrix, which is able to express the wave period and height, respectively. The wave period, which was detected by the Hu-moments algorithm at the Gyoam Beach in Republic of Korea were compared with the wave information collected by an under-water pressure type wave meter. The results of this study confirm that the CCD camera with Hu-moments algorithm is applicable to detect wave period with a slight bias and, consequently, to clarify the complex characteristics of wave distribution and its temporal change.
Yoon, I.J., 2018. Perspectives of Government Officials and Professional Experts on the Hydrographic Surveying of Bathing Beaches in the Republic of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1376–1380. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study aimed to investigate and present stakeholders' perspectives on hydrographic surveys of bathing beaches in the Republic of Korea. Questionnaires targeting local government officials and hydrographic survey experts were designed, distributed, and collected. Hydrographic survey experts were found to be more supportive than local government officials towards the necessity for legally enforced beach boundaries with exact coordinates, survey-based decisions, participation of registered surveying businesses, and equal intervals of measuring lines. In contrast, local government officials were more supportive of voluntarily set beach boundaries, provision of technical guidance, and different intervals of measuring lines. These results indicate the existence of complicated dynamics and ambiguities surrounding hydrographic surveying in Korea. Overall, the survey answers were influenced by administrative responsibilities and relevant expertise. Based on these results, 98.2% of bathing beaches should require no more than 41 measuring lines, reducing the time and budget required for surveying. Following the passage of the Act on the Use and Management of Bathing Beaches in 2014, stakeholders are facing a paradigm shift in beach management with regard to natural conditions and the long-term development of bathing beaches.
Kum, B.-C.; Shin, D.-H.; Lee, J.H.; Moh, T.J.; Jang, S.; Lee, S.Y., and Cho, J.H., 2018. Monitoring Applications for Multifunctional Unmanned Surface Vehicles in Marine Coastal Environments. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1381–1385. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This work investigates the application of unmanned surface vehicles (USVs) for the management of coastal environment. USVs are an important and highly accessible tool for operating in shallow and nearshore waters. Sea trials are used to test the maneuverability and bathymetric survey capabilities of USVs. The results show that USVs have the potential to be an integrative platform for surveying shallow water zones (rivers, estuaries, and coasts), which can be enhanced by installing various transducers and sensor modules. The advances in sensing technologies and microelectronics will lead to the miniaturization of sensors and devices resulting in the proliferation of USVs in the field of coastal management.
Sim, S.H. and Song, D.S., 2018. Evaluation of Cadastral Discrepancy and Continuous Cadastral Mapping in Coastal Zone using Unmanned Aerial Vehicle. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp.1386–1390. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The coastal area is a national important interest in terms of conservation of the natural environment and the spatial utilization of the coast, such as the expansion of the national territory and the creation of the industrial complex in Korea. However, due to the detailed land registration in the coastal area is insufficient, when the land ownership dispute occurs in coastal areas, the solution such as the boundary determination is not properly suggested. Also, the coastal space has been recognized as a common space not owned by anyone, so that the registration of coastal land in the land registration ledger has been made passively. Recently, UAV surveying system and data modelling methods are now extensively available and suitable for cadastral mapping as they provide an economical benefit and scientific accuracy, which are related to time, low-cost and high-resolution data including ortho-images, point clouds, and digital surface models. In this study, we produced an ortho-image of the test study area, where is located in the Samcheok Beach, with the octocopter-typed UAV and compared with the existing serial cadastral map to evaluate the present status of cadastral boundaries in the coastal area. The overlay analysis results between the cadastral map and the UAV ortho-image showed that the enormous boundary inconsistence in the coastal area is revealed. Also, we carried out new cadastral mapping based on the UAV imagery, and evaluated the suitability of UAV ortho-image for updating cadastral maps in the waterfront zone and the residential zone at the Samcheok Beach area. As a result, it is possible to investigate the cadastral discrepancy of the existing serial cadastral map in a coastal area with the UAV ortho-image and it could be utilized in the cadastral resurveying project (CRP) for a coastal zone management.
Palginõmm, V.; Orviku, K.; Suursaar, Ü.; Kont, A.; Tõnisson, H., and Rivis, R., 2018. Lessons Learned from Record-High Storm Surges and Associated Inundations in Pärnu, SW Estonia. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1391–1395. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Due to changes in atmospheric circulation and warmer winters, the frequency of strong westerly storms associated with high sea level in ice-free sea conditions has increased over the last half-century on the western coast of Estonia including in Pärnu City. During the last 50 years Pärnu has suffered from two remarkably high storm surges and associated inundations – in 1967 (2.53 m above mean sea level) and in 2005 (2.75 m). This paper addresses the problem of coastal floods in Pärnu, analyzing different action plans in order to protect the city against floods, which may get even more disastrous due to climate change induced sea level rise. Our analysis showed that application of adaptation measures seems to be the most reasonable option for Pärnu, while the expenses on building a protective dam exceeds the potentially avoidable losses. A managed retreat was not acceptable either because the city would lose its identity as a famous summer resort with excellent sandy beaches. Dissipation of storm surge water over adjacent low-lying uninhabited territories would not give any clear effect reducing the high water level only by 5 centimetres as maximum. In case of adapting to temporary extensive floods, a more efficient warning system and better communication between the authorities and the local people are needed.
Eem, S.H.; Yang B.J., and Jeon, H., 2018. Simplified Methodology for Urban Flood Damage Assessment at Building Scale using Open Data In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1396–1400. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Flooding is a hazardous natural disaster that causes extensive damage to people and infrastructure, especially in cities. Since the content and scope of public data disclosed by each country and city differs, general flood damage assessment methods have not yet been developed. In other words, flood damage assessment methods need to be tailored to each city's public data. This study developed a methodology to easily estimate flood damage based on public data. The method can be applied to various situations and locations. The proposed urban flood damage assessment method uses a geographic information system (GIS) and open data at building scale to provide detailed damage information. Flooded areas are established using GIS, and building inundation heights are obtained from the flood map. Economical losses are derived from inundation data by calculating numbers of loss for residential buildings, industrial buildings, and human life. To validate the proposed method, a simulation using probabilistic flood map in the Masan Bay area, Republic of Korea, was conducted. In the simulation, recently published building and census data were used. The urban flood damage assessment was performed using a 200-year return period coastal flood scenario. The simulation results show that the proposed assessment method provides more detailed information on damage at the building level than regional scale damage assessment results. The results confirm the potential to improve policy decision-making and to reduce the detrimental impacts of urban flooding by adopting the proposed assessment method.
KEYWORDS: Community resilience assessment, coupled natural-human system modeling, Mississippi River Delta, population changes, coastal resilience and sustainability
Nina S.-N. Lam.; Qiang, Y.; Li K.; Cai, H.; Zou, L., and Mihunov, V. 2018. Extending Resilience Assessment to Dynamic System Modeling: Perspectives on Human Dynamics and Climate Change Research. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1401–1405. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
It is widely known that the same type and strength of hazard could lead to very uneven impacts on different communities due to their varying vulnerability and resilience capacity. Hence, identifying the factors that make a community more resilient to hazards is critical to its sustainability and is central to climate change research and planning. This paper addresses three questions: what is the best way to measure community resilience to disasters and how to identify the key indicators? How do the resilience indicators dynamically interact in a quantitative manner that would lead to long-term resilience? And how can we translate the scientific results into practical tools for decision making? Using the population change pattern in the Mississippi River Delta as a case study, this paper demonstrates the use of a relatively new resilience assessment method called the Resilience Inference Measurement (RIM) method to measure resilience. Then, a newly developed spatial dynamic model is used to simulate population changes in the study area. The results show that without any changes in the current condition, the coastal portion of the study area will continue to suffer population loss and the region is unlikely to sustain in the future.
Gerrity, B.; Phillips, M.R., and Chambers, C., 2018. Applying a Coastal Vulnerability Index to San Mateo County: Implications for Shoreline Management In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1406–1410. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Climate change will cause increased coastal erosion and flooding along vulnerable shorelines and, therefore, to assess risk along the coastline and bayline of San Mateo County, a coastal vulnerability index (CVI) was used. San Mateo County is on a peninsula between the Pacific Ocean and San Francisco Bay, and therefore has both bay and ocean shorelines. The CVI measured physical parameters such as beach width, distance to 20 meter isobath, distance of vegetation behind the back beach, dune width and percentage rocky outcrop in order to produce relative vulnerabilities along both ocean and bay shorelines. Results found significant differences between overall vulnerabilities of the coastside and the bayside, which are important because governing bodies that manage San Mateo County are responsible for decision making on both sides. For example, when assessing distance to the 20 meter isobath, the coastside has several sites where it is very close to the shoreline, whereas the 20 meter isobath does not exist on the bayside because San Francisco Bay is very shallow adjacent to San Mateo County. The ramifications of this is that the bayside could be less vulnerable to storm powered wave damage compared to the coastside but is more vulnerable to flooding from sea level rise. Other findings revealed that the lack of sand dunes and beaches on the bayside will make the bayside more vulnerable to damage from wind waves, sea level rise or king tide events. San Mateo County does not have many areas with a high percentage of rocky outcrop on either bayside or coastside. This suggests that the San Mateo shoreline as a whole is vulnerable to waves since they will be breaking on weaker shore geology. Vulnerabilities are also compared with media coverage of property loss following recent storms with challenges faced by governing bodies identified.
Nguyen, Q.C.; Ian, D.G.; Mortlock R.T., and Gallop L.S., 2018. The influence of wind on hydrodynamic processes in Robbins Passage, Tasmania, Australia. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 141–145. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Understanding the hydrodynamic conditions in tidal inlets is vital for sustainable coastal management and structural design such as of harbours, sluices and dykes. The development and evolution of tidal inlets is due mainly to the interaction between tidal currents, longshore currents, waves and river flow with sediment transport. In addition, wind also plays an important role by generating local wind-waves that control the near-surface and also by its influence on water circulation. Robbins Passage is located off the far northwest of Tasmania, Australia. Robbins Passage is sheltered from swell, wave actions and uniquely oriented east-west, thus making it open to opposing wind directions and synoptic climate patterns. This study investigates the effect of wind on the hydrodynamic processes operating in Robbins Passage tidal inlet, using a two-dimensional flow model (MIKE21 HD) with high-resolution LiDAR-derived bathymetry. The simulated water levels were compared to water level observations at the eastern and western entrances of the inlet. Results from the calibrated model indicated that the model reproduces hydrodynamic conditions reasonably well (R2 = 0.89, RMSE = 0.09 at Kangaroo and R2 = 0.84, RMSE = 0.12 at Howie station). Results suggested that water level variations depend largely on wind direction. A shift in the predominant wind direction from Easterly to Westerly can change the tidal inlet regime from flood-dominated to ebb-dominated. Model results also indicate that a westerly wind stress can accelerate the ebb current and decrease water levels inside the inlet by up to 20% compared to easterly wind forcing, independent of tide. This may have implications for the hydrodynamic response of tidal inlets to changes in regional wind patterns predicted for the Southern Hemisphere mid-latitude tidal inlets.
Phillips, M.R.; Jones, A., and Thomas, T., 2018. Climate Change, Coastal Management and Acceptable Risk: Consequences for Tourism. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1411–1415. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
An evaluation of the present day status of a coastline is fundamental in deciding whether to actively manage or to refrain from intervention. Unfortunately, with climate change and assessments of acceptable risk based on ongoing costs to defend, decisions need to be taken that reduce difficult and expensive decisions for future generations, i.e. sustainable management of the shoreline. The coastline provides economic opportunities, and tourism is one of the main stakeholders at risk from managed retreat and no active intervention decisions. Therefore, which aspect of risk takes priority, as barriers to effective Integrated Coastal Zone Management (ICZM) are inadequate capacity and finance? This paper shows the consequences of taking ‘managed retreat’ and ‘no active intervention’ decisions with no implementation strategy in place. The economic consequences for coastal stakeholders does not only include loss of tourism income but also assets and residential properties. Established processes for establishing risk and evidence gathering are questioned with recommendations for future strategies made. Subsequently, arguments are put forward that initial large scale assessments should be supplemented by smaller scale studies when decisions of ‘managed retreat’ and ‘no active intervention’ are proposed. Assessments should also include costs of lost business and infrastructure.
Reshma, K.N. and Murali, R.M., 2018. Current Status and Decadal Growth Analysis of Krishna - Godavari Regions using Remote Sensing. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1416–1420. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Demarcation and continuous monitoring of shorelines are essential for understanding the dynamic nature and processes of the coastal areas. Shorelines of delta regions are ecologically and economically sensitive and dynamic. Changes in the environmental conditions and human interference affect the balance of delta's morphology. As delta areas are severely disturbed by natural as well as anthropogenic factors, it is essential to study the current status and their growth pattern. This study focuses on the decadal change analysis of Krishna-Godavari delta region on the east coast of India from 1973 to 2014 using satellite data. Advanced remote sensing and GIS technology along with statistical tools are efficient to study the changes in the delta. Results show that the major accretion over these areas is due to the growth in the geomorphological landforms like spits and bars. It is observed from the 40 years of analysis over Godavari delta river mouths; Nilarevu (−781m), Gautami (−2.2 km), Vainateyam (−463 m) and Vasishta (−320 m) are under erosion. During 1973–1993, Gautami and Vasishta river mouths showed higher erosion of 1.6 km and 1.4 km whereas Nilarevu mouth marked 972.6 m of accretion. High erosion was observed in the northern part of the Krishna delta due to the reduction in the size of the spit and high accretion in the southern part of the delta during the period between 1973 and 2014. It is inferred that surface coastal current pattern during monsoon and post-monsoon in Krishna delta support the growth of a spit in the south-western direction. This study has brought out the current status and growth patterns of Krishna-Godavari delta in last few decades. This kind of study helps in proper management and planning of the coast which requires accurate knowledge about the endurance of the area.
Portz, L.; Manzolli, R.P., and Garzon, N., 2018. Management Priorities in San Andres Island Beaches, Colombia: Associated Risks. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1421–1425. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
San Andres is a touristic island located in the Seaflower Biosphere Reserve, Colombian Caribbean. The island reflects the current territorial dynamics, and economic development. These create significant changes that have been affecting its natural characteristics. The present study analyses the evolution of the landscape characteristics and beach litter situation at 17 points (sandy beaches/rocky shores). The amount and source of waste are different between the tourist beaches (excellent), non-tourist beaches (poor), and rocky shores (good), and correspond to human activities related to beach use and irregular disposal. Solid waste can be observed on trails, footbridges, vacant lots, and especially on non-tourist beaches. Beaches located farthest away from the island's touristic center are the most affected by litter, which puts tourists seeking beaches with a lower tourist density and local people at risk. These non-tourist beaches are considered improper due to the amount of hazardous solid waste present, including glass, even though they have coastal scenario values that are similar to the popular tourist beaches. The environmental management of the island should prioritize all the island beaches considering the fact that environmental quality reflects the growing social and environmental concerns of tourists when choosing their destinations.
Jin Young Choi, Suk Hyun Kim, Eun-Ji Won, Dong-Beom Yang, Chang Soo Chung, Kyoungrean Kim, Ki Young Choi, Kongtae Ra, Kyung-Tae Kim, Jee Young Yim, Chae Woon Lim, Gi Hoon Hong
Choi, J.Y.; Kim, S.H.; Won, E.-J.; Yang, D.B.; Chung, C.S.; Kim, K.; Choi, K.Y.; Ra, K.; Kim, K.-T.; Yim, J.Y.; Lim, C.W., and Hong, G.H., 2018. A Study of the Contaminated Sediment Management System in Korea, with Suggestions for Improvement. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1426–1430. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal sediment management, particularly the remediation and sustainable use of dredged contaminated marine sediments, is a critical issue in Korea as it is around the world. Since 1988, the Korean Ministry of Oceans and Fisheries has been conducting projects to clean up contaminated marine sediments. The objective of this study was to analyze the management of Korea's coastal sediments and investigate how the Contaminated Sediment Management System (CSMS) could be improved, so as to strengthen the sustainability of the clean-up projects. The state of the CSMS was diagnosed and improvements were developed by reviewing relevant research, interviewing field experts, and holding meetings with researchers, specialists, and government officials. These improvements were aimed at 1) developing a sustainable and practical CSMS and 2) strengthening the responsibility of local governments for managing coastal pollution.
Gang, Y.; Choi, J.Y.; Ra, K.; Lee, K.-W.; Chung, C.-S.; Kim, K., and Won, E.-J. 2018. Biological Impact Assessment of Sediments:A Preliminary Study for Using Pore Water and Elutriate as Exposure Media. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1431–1435. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Biological impact assessment is required for the management of polluted sediment. Several bioassays have been performed on polluted sediment. Direct exposure to sediments is one method for evaluation of sediment toxicity and risks. However, this approach has difficulty with control of feeding and the effect on organisms. Furthermore, only macro-organisms and benthic organisms are used. In this study, we evaluate pore water and sediment elutriate as alternative media for assessing sediments. To evaluate the potential of these two alternative media, two different species of copepods with a short life cycle and ease of maintenance were each exposed to pore water and elutriate. Mortality and mRNA expression were measured in each sample. In chemical analysis, both alternative media showed much lower concentrations than the total sample. The whole sediment exposure method did not affect the mortality of the two copepods, and even resulted in enhanced hatching compared to others. The elutriate of sediments also did not cause mortality. However, pore water showed significant alterations of mRNA expression even at 24h exposure with a dose-dependent relationship. The exposure test using pore water and elutriate may provide an effective chance to assess toxicity by reducing sampling difficulties, although further studies are required to obtain more abundant data for future applications.
Zhang, X.;Wu Q.Y., and Chen Y.X., 2018. Multiple Satellite Image Data Coordinative Computation Technology and Application in Coast Region. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1436–1440. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Remote sensing data from different sensors have different advantages in wave band, space resolution, time resolution, imaging mode and different adaptabilities. The ecological environment and dynamic change monitoring of coast zones requires mutual image data coordinative computation. First, the earth observation net is introduced which can provide the cooperative observation ability. Second, this paper studies coordinative computing method of multi-source images which integrates multiple imaging advantages. This paper tests fine extraction and quantitative computing for pattern patches of the non-point source polluted scenery centralized layout in the coast zone, Fujian province, China. The results show that this method improves spatio-temporal recognition precision and quantitation precision.
Vizcaíno, E.; Esteban, M.D.; López-Gutiérrez, J.S., and Negro, V., 2018. Surveys Applied to the Improvements of Beaches. Case Studies: Las Canteras, Hoya Pozuelo and Salinetas (Gran Canaria Island, Spain). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1441–1445. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In numerous countries, beaches are essential for the attraction of tourism. The users of the beaches are becoming more demanding in terms of their expectations of the state and quality of beaches and their surrounding environment. The current trend in engineering is to listen carefully to the opinions of users to take them into account in decision-making. The consideration of sociological studies based on surveys is already contemplated in beaches. Generally, the design of the survey is done individually for each beach, which prevents a simple comparison between different beaches. The research referred to in this abstract has sought to resolve this issue. This research has focused on the island of Gran Canaria (Spain), where beach tourism is essential within the island economy. The beaches analyzed are: Las Canteras, Hoya Pozuelo and Salinetas. Firstly, an analysis of the survey techniques has been developed, and how it has been applied to beaches. The research includes a technical study from the point of view of coastal engineering. A specific survey has been developed, which has subsequently allowed a field work to be carried out, with results of around 450 surveys. The statistical study of the results of the surveys has allowed analyzing the answers of each one of the questions in each beach, to later compare the three beaches. As a result of the analysis of the surveys, but also of the engineering study of the beaches included in this research, a strategy of improvement of each one of the beaches has been proposed with the aim of achieving greater user satisfaction. It is therefore a case to ben be taken as an example for the future when looking for synergies between engineering studies and sociology.
Muthusankar, G.; Proisy, C.; Balasubramanian, D.; Bautès, N.; Bhalla, R S.; Mathevet, R.; Ricout, A.; Senthil Babu, D., and Vasudevan, S., 2018. When socio-economic plans exacerbate vulnerability to physical coastal processes on the south east coast of India. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1446–1450. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Industrial and urban development along the coast may exacerbate the changes induced by oceano-climatic processes to such an extent that the coast becomes uninhabitable. This paper presents a baseline study carried out on the 360 km-long Coromandel coast of Tamil Nadu's (TN) Bay of Bengal coast, Southeast India. About 30% of the 72 million inhabitants of the state of TN live in low-lying coastal areas within a variety of ecosystems such as sandy beaches and dunes, wetlands, mudflats and mangroves. Exponential demographic growth combines with dense urban agglomerations, ever-growing industrial and harbour areas, aquaculture and luxury tourism expansion increasing vulnerabilities to coastal erosion and extreme meteorological events. We report here how very high spatial resolution satellite (VHSRS) images, freely provided by Google Earth® engine or from the public database offered by GIS software, may be used to impartially and significantly survey coastal land cover (LC) transformations at fine scales over a number of years using preliminary visual interpretation. The study also gathered demographic data, historical records on strength and trajectories of the cyclones that have hit the TN coast since 1900, and decadal series of daily ERA-Interim/ECMWF waves and Mercator-Ocean oceanic currents. Our results demonstrate a tangle of environmental and human activities and situations subject to specific coastal hazards, particularly severe during the Northeast monsoon season. The potential risks for coastal ecosystems and local communities are finally discussed.
Lee, G.S.; Cho, H.Y., and An, S.M., 2018. Thermal Stratification Modeling in the Inner Coastal Bays. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1451–1455. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Hypoxia occurs repeatedly when water quality deterioration and damage to the aquaculture industry are reported in coastal inner bays. In general, hypoxia occurs when stratification develops, and the oxygen consumption rate of the water layers and sediment increases. Therefore, prediction of hypoxic water masses affecting the survival of marine benthos should be preceded by a stratification prediction. In this study, stratification at Dang-dong bay, the inner bay of Jinhae Bay located on the southern coast of Korea, was investigated using a vertical eddy diffusion model focused on the heat budget at the water surface. Air temperature, wind speed, vapor pressure, and duration of sunshine were used for this numerical model calculation. Simulation results show that the model simulates annual temperature changes and stratification well, and the root mean squared (RMS) error is calculated as 1.31°C. The annual changes in water temperature were influenced by solar radiation, evaporation heat, long wave radiation energy, and the contribution of sensible heat was relatively small. It was confirmed that the water temperature in the inner bays, such as Dang-dong bay, is dominated by the heat flux at the water surface rather than the tidal flow. The model proposed in this study can be used for predicting the occurrence of hypoxia by simulating the thermal stratification in coastal areas using only weather input data.
Jeong, H.; Ra, K.; Kim, K.-T.; Kim, E.-S.; Lee, S.-Y., and Choi, M.-S. 2018. Tracing the pollution source using Pb isotopes in sediments of the coastal region surrounding the national industrial complex, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1456–1460. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
166 sediment samples from Ulsan Bay and Shihwa Lake that is special management sea area were collected in 2014 not only to study the spatial distribution and pollution assessment of Pb but also to identify anthropogenic pollutions for Pb isotopes. The mean Pb concentrations of road-deposited sediments were higher than those of stream and coastal sediments in the study area. In all sediment samples, Ulsan showed an average concentration of 2 to 4 times higher than that of Shihwa. Pb concentrations in coastal sediments of more than 50 % were below the threshold effect level (TEL) of Korean marine sediment quality guidelines. The high exceedance of probable effect levels (PEL) showed in large harbors and near industrial facilities. Road-deposited sediments in Ulsan and Shihwa exceeded the class 2 (potentially toxic to benthic organisms) of Korean freshwater sediment quality guidelines. For both study areas, Pb isotope ratios tend to decrease with increasing Pb concentrations in sediments. In the case of Ulsan, high concentrations and low 206Pb/207Pb isotopic ratios were observed nearby the smelter and lead ore import harbor, indicating that Pb was released into the road surface during transportation using the vehicle and then moved to the marine area through the stream. However, Shihwa has a lot of small facilities (>19,000), it is difficult to clearly identify Pb pollution sources.
Pellerin Le Bas, X. and Levoy, F., 2018. Bar migrations on a macrotidal ebb delta over a period of six years using LiDAR survey. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 146–150. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The migration rates of two swash bars on an ebb delta are studied in a macrotidal environment. A dataset of 12 LiDAR surveys, from 2011 to 2017 is used to compute the movement of the swash bar crests using Digital Shoreline Analysis System (DSAS) version 4.3. Hydrodynamic data are acquired near the ebb-tidal delta during the same period. The relationship between bar migration rate and wave energy flux is analyzed. The correlation is high (r2 = 0.71), but a specific migration rate of the two bars weaken this result. Furthermore, the two swash bars have two different behaviors under the same hydrodynamic conditions. Other analyses are conducted concerning the relationships between the migration of the bar and its volume or the water depth. The correlations are too weak to explain the different behaviors of the bars. Another parameter is highlighted, the number of swash bars in the immediate vicinity of the two bars.
Oh, H.M.; Hwang, S.M.; Kim, S.M.; Kang, T.S.; and Jeong, K.Y., 2018. Systematic Coastal Field Survey Method and Coastal Structures Management Status in the Korean Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1461–1465. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study analyzes the management status of the Korean coastal structures and suggests coastal field survey methods for a more efficient and systematic coastal management. In order to maximize efficiency, the coastal field survey was divided into three steps. On Survey (I), the topography, structures, industrial structure and etc. were surveyed by using various thematic maps and afterwards the target sites for Survey (II) were chosen. On Survey (II), by visiting the target sites firsthand, the exteriors of terrains, coastal concrete structures were examined, and local residents were interviewed. On Survey (III), timeworn structures that clearly needed maintenance and structures that had more than two faults - cracks, rebar exposure, loss and subsidence -, which were identified during Survey (II), had the round hardness test using the Schmidt hammer. Based on the compressive strength results from the test, all structures were classified into five numerical grades As a result of Survey (I), 2,861 sites for Survey (II) were chosen. Results of Survey (II) identified target structures for Survey (III): 10 in Gangwon (8%), 35 in Gyeongnam (5%), 12 in Gyeongbuk (6%), 10 in Busan (7%), 0 in Ulsan (0%), 22 in Incheon & Gyeonggi (14%), 145 in Jeonnam (14%), 13 in Jeonbuk (19%), 5 in Jeju (3%), 51 in Chungnam (22%). According to the Survey (III) results, 85.2% of the target structures were classified as grade 4 or 5, therefore demonstrating that the three step survey method in this study is appropriate and accurate. This survey method could improve the efficiency of coastal management.
Choi, Y.E.; Jin, J. Y.; Chang, Y. S.,; Jang, B., and Chon, J., 2018. Role of Official Development Assistance in Enhancing Resilient Coastal Community in Small Island Developing States. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1466–1470. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The purpose of this study was to discuss the role of official development assistance (ODA) in improving the resilience of coastal communities through a case study of a marine science cooperation project supported by Korea International Cooperation Agency for Caribbean small-island developing states (SIDS). Resilience characteristics (social-technological-environmental domain, spatial scale, transformability, adaptability, and self-organizing ability) were examined. As a result of the scale-domain matrix and cascading effect analysis, this project formed a multi-level governance model and attracted voluntary participation from various stakeholders. The role of this project to improve the resilience of the Caribbean was spatially extended from fisheries and coastal tourism infrastructure to coastal communities, regions, countries, and Caribbean Islands. Regarding aspects of transformability, adaptability, and self-organizing, a coastal expert group (Korea Institute of Ocean Science and Technology) and an educational institution (University of the West Indies) formed a network to provide training programs that enable countries to acquire coastline monitoring technology and adapt and transit on their own. This study holds significance in terms of providing directions to future ODA projects to improve sustainable development of SIDS and quality of life of coastal inhabitants.
Min, S.-H.; Park, M.-O.; Kim, S.-W.; Han, I-S.; Kim, W., and Park, Y-J., 2018. Using GOCI Data for Detection of Coastal Upwelling at East/Japan Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1471–1475. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Recently emergence of cold water from coastal upwelling has caused frequent damages to the coastal aquaculture along the southeast coast of Korea. So, the necessity of early forecasting of cold water using satellite data has emerged. Coastal upwelling generally detected by meteorological satellites of sea surface temperature (SST) data. However, this study tries to seek a possibility of use of ocean color satellite data to find the cold water, by Chromophoric dissolved organic matter (CDOM) concentration of upwelled cold water. The concentration of CDOM will change if coastal upwelling occurs. That could be observed through the ocean color sensor. 2017 summer, SST and CDOM concentrations in the in-situ and satellite data were matched up, when coastal upwelling occurred. As a result, SST and CDOM were correlated positively in coastal area, meanwhile negative correlation was found in off shore. When upwelling occurs, it is considered that high concentration of CDOM on the coast and subsurface flow to the off shore along with cold middle water, and then relatively low CDOM is supplied.
S.S.K, Chandrasekara.; Uranchimeg, S.; Kwon, H-H., and Lee, S-O., 2018. Coastal Flood Disaster in Sri Lanka-May 2017: Exploring Distributional Changes in Rainfall and Their Impacts on Flood Risk. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1476–1480. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal communities, their livelihoods, and the coastal ecosystems of Sri Lanka are vulnerable to extreme rainfall events. In May 2017, the southern and southwestern coastal regions of Sri Lanka experienced devastating floods, which caused nearly 122 deaths. In light of this, exploring distributional changes in extreme rainfall series recorded across Sri Lanka are crucial to understand flood risk in the context of climate variability and change. This study was focused on investigating possible distributional changes in annual maximum daily rainfall (ADMR) over time for the affected coastal regions in Sri Lanka using a quantile regression approach in a Bayesian framework. A simplified nine–category distributional change scheme based on the empirical probability density functions of two years (i.e., the first year and the last year) was used to determine the distributional changes in ADMR. This study examined the trends of ADMRs for seven stations in coastal regions of Sri Lanka for the period of 1960 – 2015. Three categories in terms of distributional change in ADMR were identified for these regions. One station showed an upward trend in distributional change in ADMR, which could indicate high probability of extreme rainfall. The rest of the stations showed a downward trend in the quantiles, which could indicate low probability of extreme rainfall. Further discussion of the possible reasons for the occurrence of the coastal flood disaster in May 2017 in Sri Lanka is provided below.
Lim, J.-H.; Lee, S.H.; Park, J.; Lee, J.; Yoon, J.-E., and Kim, I.-N, 2018. Coastal Hypoxia in the Jinhae Bay, South Korea: Mechanism, Spatiotemporal Variation, and Implications (based on 2011 survey). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1481–1485. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Hypoxia (dissolved oxygen ≤2 mg L−1), which occurs frequently in coastal regions due to eutrophication, is a serious environmental problem in marine ecosystems. The areal extent of hypoxic regions has increased globally in recent decades. Jinhae Bay (JB) on the southeastern coast of South Korea has suffered from seasonal hypoxia due to increased anthropogenic activities since the 1970s. However, no intensive study has examined hypoxia in JB, although it is a scientific, social, and economic concern. We conducted monthly hydrographic surveys of JB in 2011 and present the mechanism of the hypoxia and its spatiotemporal variation there. The advent of hypoxic waters in the JB was initiated locally by the combination of developing stratification and increased benthic (bottom waters sediments zone) remineralization in early June. From mid-July to early September, the hypoxia extended to the entire region, despite constant organic matter content in the benthic layer, due mainly to strong stratification, resulting in stagnant water circulation. During September, the hypoxia was maintained by a combination of physical and biogeochemical effects, although the areal extent of the hypoxic regions was substantially reduced. Overall, the hypoxia was present from early June until late September, with monthly spatiotemporal variation. The hypoxic waters tended to have low pH values, indicating an association with coastal acidification. JB, a small coastal region, suffers from serious environmental problems that urgently need our attention.
Hu, C.; You, Z-J.; Mao, H-y., and Hu, X-m., 2018. Assessing Impacts of Large-scale Coastal Land Reclamation on Marine Environment on the Coast of China. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1486–1490. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal land reclamation increases at a high speed on the coast of China in the last few decades. It is estimated that nearly 65% of tidal flats around the Yellow Sea of China have been reclaimed. This study is to undertake a comprehensive study of the coastal land reclamation in China by analyzing the coverage area of index system and the determination method of weight. In order to undertake the comprehensive evaluation, a new assessment method is also developed by combining the analytic hierarchy process(AHP) with the Delphi method. The Multi Indexing model for assessing impacts of land reclamation project on marine environment has been established. The weight for multi indexes has been obtained based on the AHP and Delphi methods. The evaluation standard for assessing impacts of reclamation project on marine environment is also proposed. With these new standards, the newly developed model has been applied to undertake a case study for a large-scale land reclamation project at a coastal site of Caofeidian located in the center of Bohai Bay.
Kim, J., 2018. Web-based Geovisualization System of Oceanographic Information Using Dynamic Particles and HTML5. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1491–1495. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A web-based geovisualization system of oceanographic information using dynamic particles and HTML5 has been established to address the limitations of the existing Web-GIS based oceanographic information system. The limitations include systematic scalability, slow service speed, a non-standard internet web environment, poor user accessibility and interactivity, and spatial and temporal variability visualization. Importantly, spatial observation data through remote sensing and 3D numerical modeling data are oceanographic data having spatial and temporal variability. Such data are heterogeneous, large capacity, and multidimensional and are based on geographic information. In order to understand intuitively and analyze effectively, dynamic particles were applied to visualize the spatial and temporal variability. This paper introduces the oceanographic information geovisualization system, in which the information inquiry and analysis functions are implemented using open libraries such as HTML5, WebGL, Canvas, D3, and Leaflet map, which are next generation Web platform standards for multimedia service and map with location service.
Paul S. Kench, Emma J. Ryan, Susan Owen, Robert Bell, Judy Lawrence, Bruce Glavovic, Paula Blackett, Julia Becker, Paul Schneider, Michael Allis, Mark Dickson, Hamish G. Rennie
Kench, P.S.; Ryan, E.J.; Owen, S.; Bell, R.; Lawrence, J.; Glavovic, B.; Blackett, P.; Becker, J.; Schneider, P.; Allis, M.; Dickson, M., and Rennie, H.G. 2018. Co-creating resilience solutions to coastal hazards through an interdisciplinary research project in New Zealand, In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1496–1500. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal communities ‘living at the edge’ face intensification and acceleration of coastal hazard risk in the face of climate change. Communities will need to be adaptive in reducing these risks now and over long timeframes. Developing coastal hazard adaptation pathways requires co-production of interdisciplinary knowledge between scientists, policy makers and communities. However, there remains little guidance and limited dialogue about the research practices and frameworks that underpin co-created research. In a first for New Zealand, a co-created research programme is underway titled ‘Living at the Edge’ that aims to improve the resilience of coastal communities to coastal hazards. This paper provides novel insights into the complexities underpinning the formative stages of co-created research, drawing on practical experience from the Living at the Edge project. We explore the enablers and shapers that led to co-created shifts in the research project objectives and framework. Notions of integration, trust, and flexibility are three fundamental aspects that influenced the early stages of co-creation. The importance of bridging interactions with actors early on in co-created projects is exemplified.
Shim, W.J. and Kim, C.W., 2018. The necessity of coastal management in Busan Considering human and natural conditions: The case of barrier islands in Nakdong-estuary. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp.1501–1505. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Busan coasts have complex natural and human conditions including dynamic coastal, river processes and human activities. These complex natural and human factors have had direct and indirect impacts on the coastal areas of Busan, so a spatially integrated approach for management is required. Especially, the barrier islands located in the Nakdong River estuary are proper examples that show the effect of the sediment budget as natural and human conditions. This research aims to identify the effects of natural and human conditions on the barrier islands. The area of the barrier islands, sediment budget from the watershed, the amount of dredging at Nakdong-Estuarine-Dam and land use coverage were compared using correlation analysis. The more sediment eroded from watershed and the less sediment was dredged at Nakdong-Estuarine-Dam, the larger area of the barrier islands. This indicates that boundary conditions such as the supply of sediment from the rivers are related to the barrier islands; thus river and watershed management are important. Regarding land use, used and barren areas are positively correlated with the barrier islands, but water, forests and agricultural lands are negatively correlated. Internal factors within Busan, such as coastal modifications and urban growth, are affecting coastal dynamics, which change the sediment budget. These results show that the barrier islands sensitively respond to boundary conditions from the river and watershed and to internal conditions such as shoreline management and development. Therefore, for the effective management of Busan's coasts, it is necessary to consider how natural and human conditions interact spatially.
Kim, Y.H.; Sugarman, D.E.; Kim, H.C.; Son, S.; Ha, H.K.; Chang, W.K.; Han, K.W., and Ryu, J., 2018. Implementation of a Numerical Model of Metals for Total Maximum Daily Loads (TMDLs) in Onsan Harbor, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1506–1510. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Accumulation of heavy metals has been one of fundamental environmental concerns for many coastal and estuarine systems, which can be directly influenced by contaminants loading from land. Onsan Harbor, Korea, surrounded by Onsan National Industrial Complex, shows high concentration of heavy metals in the seabed sediments. In order to establish proper environmental management plan for Onsan Harbor, the implementation of a Total Maximum Daily Loads (TMDL) was proposed. As a part of TMDL for metals, numerical model has been developed to evaluate metal fluxes into the Onsan harbor.
A bathtub model for four different metals, including Copper, Zinc, Lead, and Mercury, was implemented in Onsan harbor. To supply data for boundary conditions and model calibration, extensive monitoring programs were conducted in the study area for past three years, between 2014 and 2016. The data from the monitoring programs includes freshwater discharge rate, load of metals from streams and tributaries, concentration of dissolved and particulate metals in water and sediments, sedimentation rates, and current velocities. The model was calibrated and validated with these monitoring data and other public data sets, and the results confirm high performance of the metal TMDL model in Onsan Harbor system. To evaluate numeric targets of the TMDL for metals, more than 100 scenarios were simulated with the well-calibrated model. The results show that (1) after the reduction of 10% loading from the present level, the copper concentration in sediments will be lower than Probable Effects Level (PEL) within 12 years, and (2) after the reduction of 10% zinc loading, the zinc concentration in sediments will be lower than PEL in 17 years.
Zhou, Z.; Chen, L.Y.; Townend, I.; Coco, G.; Friedrichs, C., and Zhang C.K., 2018. Revisiting the relationship between tidal asymmetry and basin morphology: A comparison between 1D and 2D models. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 151–155. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Tidal basin morphology is strongly dependent on the condition of tidal asymmetry which may result in either net import (flood-dominance) or export (ebb-dominance) of sediment. Based on the one-dimensional (1D) shallow water equations, various stability relationships have been developed linking tidal parameters with basin geometry. This study revisits the widely used numerical stability relationship developed by Friedrichs and Aubrey (1988), using a 2D depth-averaged model which is able to describe a more extensive flow field and more realistic bathymetries. Model comparison between 1D and 2D models indicates that excluding or including intertidal areas as a momentum-conveying component can highly affect the tidal velocity distribution and magnitude, particularly when the relative water depth is large (i.e., the ratio between tidal amplitude and mean water depth is small). Meanwhile, the tidal distortion parameters (relative tidal phase 2M2-M4 and tidal amplitude ratio M4/M2) derived from the 2D model appear to be more strongly controlled by the relative water depth (a/h) than that in the 1D model. Further research can be devoted to developing more generic stability relationships which can be applied in a more quantitative manner.
Chang, J.-I.; Choi, H.-J., and Choi, S., 2018. Challenges of Coastal Use Fee and Levy System in Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1511–1515. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Economic incentives in coastal management aim to prevent a coastal zone from being damaged or abused by the activities of specific users, and to induce socio-economically sustainable use of the coastal zone. The Korean marine environment budget was about 200 billion KRW in 2015, but the amount collected annually through marine environmental levies was only 8 billion KRW (by the income of the fisheries development fund in 2014). The levied amount from coastal users is significantly lower than the negative external effects (such as environmental damage) caused by marine use. Therefore, it is necessary to improve the use fee and levy system such that it can contribute to a socially desirable marine utilization level and secure finance for governmental coastal management. The performances and problems of the current coastal use fee and levy system in Korea were analyzed through case studies over 10 years and advanced alternatives based on ecosystem services and regulatory efficiency were made. The results provide suggestions for the improvement of the present coastal use fee and levy system.
Kang, Y.K. and An, S.H., 2018. Development of New Coastal Erosion Countermeasure Using Wave Energy Control Method. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1516–1520. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal erosion has become a social issue around the world, including Korea. A Considerable number of coastal erosions have occurred along the East Sea in Korea, primarily caused by port and harbor developments. Countermeasures have generally utilized wave breaks with wide–low–crest submerged breakwater (so-called artificial reefs), which are coastal constructions emulating the wave absorbing effect of natural reefs with good wave–protection performance. However, these result in secondary damages such as scouring near openings and erosion towards the rear because of strong currents generated by wave setups. This study suggests a new countermeasure for coastal erosion by controlling wave energy differentiated by incident wave, i.e., wave direction control method (WDCM) to prevent the critical coastal erosion expected from a massive harbor expansion project planned along the east coast of Korea. The WDCM attempts to balance disparities in wave energy caused by harbor expansion to restrain imbalanced wave energies that result in imbalanced littoral drift. To accomplish this purpose, low crest structures are obliquely deployed at 250–300 m from the coastline to manipulate the wave energy by modulating incident wave direction. This new deployment method avoids excessive interference with the incident waves, and prevents resilience by leaving cross-shore sediment transport unhindered. In order to determine the effectiveness of the proposed WDCM, numerical computations were conducted evaluating its performance regarding coastal erosion prevention.
Sorensen, C.; Knudsen, P.; Sorensen, P.; Damgaard, T.; Molgaard, M.R., and Jensen, J., 2018. Rethinking Coastal Community Approaches to Climate Change Impacts and Adaptation. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp.1521–1525. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Low-lying coastal communities face almost insurmountable challenges from floods and climate change. Research work on adaptation and mitigation particularly emphasizes on cities and mega-cities as a natural consequence of their agglomeration of people and assets. Less focus is put on smaller coastal communities and their challenges, one of which is a lack of local expertise and knowledge. Adaptation to climate change is often a local governance level task, however. Co-work between municipal and national authorities, the utility company, research, business, consultants and citizens has resulted in a common framework to address and deal with water-related challenges in a Danish coastal community. From an assessment of combined impacts of climate change (i.e. sea level rise and storm surges, precipitation and cloudbursts and associated groundwater level responses) and stresses from degrading sewer systems and land subsidence, impact zones are mapped. The multi-player, end-user defined work transcends sectors and builds capacity by sharing data and knowledge. It mainstreams climate change issues into business, management, planning and early warning: the overall goal is an adaptation strategy unfolded from stakeholder involvement and responsibility, cost-effective decision making, climate-related asset management processes and a holistic livable cities approach to this highly vulnerable coastal community. The collaboration and common framework enable the actors to articulate need of information and establish feedback mechanisms between local level work and e.g. sea level research and climate services.
De Muro, S.; Tecchiato, S.; Buosi, C.; Porta, M.; Bachis, M., and Ibba, A., 2018. Geomorphology, Sedimentology, Benthic Habitat as Tool For Supporting Coastal Management: Comparison Between Australian And Mediterranean Beach Systems. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1526–1530. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The characterization of a nearshore system using geomorphological, sedimentological and ecological data is regarded as baseline knowledge to effectively manage the coast and warrant coastal conservation. Particularly in areas where sediment nourishment is a regular practice, the differentiation between in-situ sediment production and artificial placement, revealed by detailed sediment analyses, is often an important task.
In Esperance Bay (Western Australia) sediment nourishment and dumping are ongoing since the 1950s. The comparison with a Mediterranean site (Porto Pino, Sardinia, Italy) has improved the understanding of processes that regulate sediment distribution in the urbanized beach system of Esperance Bay. Porto Pino is a Mediterranean microtidal wave dominated embayment, characterized by environmental conditions similar to those of Esperance (i.e. climate, sediments, geology and benthic habitats), where sediment nourishment was not undertaken previously and the sediment facies can be considered as a natural analogue of the Esperance sediments. The results presented in this paper are useful for Esperance coastal managers as their provide further insights on the distribution of sediment derived from artificial placement.
Fernandes, A.; Figueira de Sousa, J.; Brito, S. S.; Neves, B., and Vicente, T., 2018. Preparing Waterfront Brownfields Redevelopment for Climate Change: the Water City Project, Almada (Portugal). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1531–1535. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The regeneration of former industrial complexes located in waterfronts represents an important challenge for several metropolitan areas worldwide. The effects of climate change combined with the fact that some brownfields are located in land-water interface areas make it necessary to evaluate this factor, particularly regarding adaptation to sea level rise (SLR). Focusing on the case of the Water City Project (Almada, Portugal), this article analyzes and discusses the measures proposed in order to strengthen the intervention area's resilience to SLR. It was possible to understand that the project: (i) was conceived to take into account the effects of SLR in the long-term; (ii) incorporates specific adaptation measures (mainly regulatory measures); (iii) combines accommodation and protection as response options to SLR.
Solari, S.; Alonso, R., and Teixeira, L., 2018. Analysis of Coastal Vulnerability Along the Uruguayan Coasts. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1536–1540. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The objective of this work is to identify the most vulnerable areas to coastal erosion on the Uruguayan coast. To this end, global wind and local waves and sea level reanalysis were used to estimate the littoral and aeolian sand transport rates (cross- and long-shore), the response of the beach profile to extreme events (by means of X-Beach model) and the supply of sand from rivers all along the Uruguayan coast, obtaining 18 years of three-hourly data. For each estimated variable, its intra- and inter-annual variability and its correlation with relevant climatic indexes were calculated. Using this information the sediment budget of the coast was analyzed at different scales: global (all the Uruguayan coast; O(100 km)), regional (physiographic units, O(10km)) and local (beach nodes; O(1km)). In turn, the above information was combined with a qualitative assessment of the coastal uses, obtaining a vulnerability index used to identify priority areas to undertake detailed studies.
Kuo, H.F. and Lu, Y.E., 2018. Exploring the spatial pattern of environmental change efficiency of coastal shrinking cities in Taiwan. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1541–1545. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The declining population has become a special phenomenon for many cities all over the world. Among 352 townships in Taiwan, 63.92% of them have been facing the situation of shrinking population from 2006 to 2016; furthermore, the proportion of this has been increasing over the years. Taiwan is facing problems of negative growth in total population, aging structure of population, rising of dependency ratio, aging society and so on. This study applied environmental change efficiency index and identified 10 important indicators to evaluate the relative efficiency and sustainability of coastal shrinking cities in Taiwan. The inputs were oriented toward natural environmental resources and the ecological environment, including surface temperature, surface runoff, habitat quality, water consumption and power consumption. The outputs were chosen to reflect the benefits and goals of economic and social development, included population, production, income, the service quality of infrastructure, and employees. The results indicate that the average environmental change efficiency is 70.71%, which has clear spatial differentiation and it would be helpful to develop strategies for coastal shrinking cities.
Navas, F.; Malvárez, G.; Penning-Rowsell, E., and Parker, D.J., 2018. Flood Hazard Prevention Appraisal in Europe: Training Key Stakeholders on the Benefits and Costs of Efficient Protection and Response. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1546–1550. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal floods in the European Union member states produce massive costs in environmental loss but also as flood damage property, infrastructure and economic activity. These costs will increase in the future due to Climate Change. The appraisal of benefits and costs are of key importance in the current economic situation in which Europe's resources need to be distributed with great prudence. In this context the implementation of European Directives, such as the EU Floods Directive (2007/60/EC) require that decision makers need to base their assessments of flood prevention measures on Cost-Benefit analysis studies. But despite this requirement EU member states are basing their implementation in a variety of approaches. In this article the results of the implementation of a new e-learning and face to face training approach based on flood prevention appraisal methodologies (e.g. cost-benefit, multicriteria analyses) is presented. The training programme used significant resources from web-based knowledge platform developed during relevant EU projects including extensive databases with legislative framework, a toolkit with resources on cost benefit analysis calculators and links with spatial data which were deemed essential for flood hazard prevention appraisal. The lessons learnt from the implementation of the training programme are of significance to assess the success or failure of the implementation of key legislative frameworks such as the EU Floods Directive in the future. A prior and post consultation process carried out with the participants showed that a) trainees were successful in developing the step by step procedure using a dedicated calculator; b) trainees also had a more contextualized general picture at EU level of the main issues regarding flood hazard prevention; and c) the trainees found the e-learning and face to face material and the resources very easy to follow and easy to understand, and explicitly recognised the pedagogic value of online availability of course materials.
Kim, M.; Lim, H.S.; Do, J.-D.; Kim, S.-S.; Lee, H.J., and Shim, J.-S., 2018. Variations of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in Haeundae. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1551–1555. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Haeundae, located on the southeastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, is a famous sand beach with a 1.6 km long, 70 m wide coastline. It suffers from wave-induced beach erosion in both summer and winter. For beach restoration, the Korean government has conducted beach nourishment (620,000 m3), and installed submerged breakwaters at both ends of the beach. Despite these efforts, the beach is still vulnerable to erosion caused by high waves. To understand beach erosion processes and sediment transport mechanisms, the government initiated an R&D project for the development of coastal erosion control technology since 2013. As part of the project, we have measured over three years of AWAC measurements at a water depth of 22 m and 1.8 km from the beach. Intensive measurements of wave, current, sediment transport near the surf-zone in summer and winter have been made using AWAC, VECTOR, and ADV with OBS. Analyses of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in the surf-zone have shown that cross-shore currents in summer are mainly induced by strong waves from the SSW or S that propagate to the beach due to wave breaking and shoaling effects on the reef near the beach. However, longshore currents in winter are induced by high waves from the E or ESE that propagate to the shoreline by diffraction at the east coastline. Eroded sand in summer returns along the beach by cross-shore and weak longshore currents induced by waves from the SSW or S. However, suspended sand in winter is moved to the west by strong longshore currents induced by waves from the E or ESE. Due to its pocket beach shape, beach erosion and sediment transport are caused by variations of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves.
Lee, J.; Kim, I., and Lee, J.L., 2018. Improving the performance of rip current forecasting index with a focused on Haeundae Beach, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1556–1560. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Rip currents can potentially drag swimmers into deep water, beyond seaward sand bars, and hence pose great threat to beach visitors worldwide. The primary aim of this study was to develop a method for improving the performance of rip current forecasting indices to more effectively, demonstrate a rip current warning level. The previous rip current forecasting index was established with four predictive levels: notice, watch, warning, and danger. The new index is based on a numerical model, using wave and wind data as well as forecast information. Through this study, standardization of rip current occurrence levels has been achieved, by using CCTV images recorded during the summer of 2015. Better forecasting accuracy was obtained given the improvement in predicting the rip current index for Haeundae, and was established in association with the Korean Meteorological Administration. The usefulness of the rip current predictive index on Haeundae Beach was determined through a matrix correlation analysis between the observed and predicted rip current levels. In addition, the accuracy of the prediction results was calculated using the new rip current forecasting index during the summer of 2016. It is necessary to continue the development of predictive studies for risk mitigation in a variety of coastal environments.
Geng, L.; Gong, Z.; Lanzoni, S., and D'Alpaos, A., 2018. A New Method for Automatic Definition of Tidal Creek Networks. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 156–160. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Tidal creek delineation is the first step in the analysis of the structure and dynamics of tidal creek networks. This study proposed a new creek definition method, in which we determined the critical elevation of creek delineation by the local elevation distribution. This method can be applied to intertidal zones with inclined bed surfaces, showing a better applicability than existing methods. By comparing creek characteristics within a certain small tidal flat using different delineation methods, we evaluated the accuracy of this new method. The size measured by the new method nicely matches results obtained on the basis of the method proposed by Fagherazzi et al. (1999).
Jeon, H.; Eem, S.H., and Park, J., 2018. Flood Damage Assessment in Building Scale Caused by the Coastal Inundation Height at Haeundae Beach, Busan. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 1561–1565. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Damages of coastal areas due to natural disasters such as storms and floods are expected to occur along with rise in sea level owing to climate change. To reduce the flood damage, it is important to identify the expected inundation areas and estimate its loss. Therefore, this study evaluates the assessment of the flood damage in a building scale of Busan around the Haeundae beach in various scenarios. The scenarios vary with the inundation height from the approximate highest high water level announced by the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency. The geographic information system (GIS) is established around the Haeundae beach area for the flood damage assessment in a building scale. The loss estimation is used by the multi-dimensional flood damage analysis (MD-FDA), suggested by the Ministry of Construction and Transportation to provide the flood damage assessment based on the building scale results. The flood damage of the Haeundae beach areas is then analyzed with flood areas, building damages, and economic losses caused by the inundation heights then the results are analyzed and visualized using the GIS. The analyzed data can be utilized in the field of flood damage mitigation and the policy of disaster prevention.
Yoon, B.I. and Woo, S.-B., 2018. On the response of shallow-water tidal regime by geological characteristic of waterway and man-made structures in a macrotidal estuary: Han River estuary (Korea). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 16–20. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
To understanding shallow-water (short- and long-term period than semidiurnal tide) tidal regime in a macrotidal estuary, Han River estuary (HRE), located on the west coast of South Korea, tidal harmonic constituents of 20 stations were analysed. The semidiurnal tide dominated HRE consists of two main waterways, which have complex geological characteristics. The shallow and narrow characteristics of waterway transform propagating astronomical tides from the open-sea to shallow tidal components such as overtides and compound tides. The shallow tide (e.g., M4, MS4, and MSf) is important factors, which is determined water and mass circulation in a macrotidal estuary. To find shallow-water tidal regime characteristic in this study, we suggest short- and long-term period of tidal form number using shallow tidal constituents. The short-term period of tidal form number covers a range from 0.02 to 0.43, and it increase 10 times larger in the upstream estuary than the open-sea. The long-period of tidal form number is small in the open-sea, but going upward to the estuary, the value increases by 10 times, and it shows 100 times greater than that of the open-sea at the upper region of Han River. Due to complex geological characteristics of waterway, the amplitude of astronomical tidal constituent rapidly decrease and shallow water tidal constituent sharply increase. The other rapid change of tidal constituent is caused by the influence of man-made structures (Singok underwater dam) in the lower tidal river. It is apparent that regional characteristic of tidal regime caused by geological effect and influence of man-made structure.
Dastgheib, A.; Wulandari, A.S.R., and Ranasinghe R., 2018. Investigationg Stability of Double-Inlet Tidal System Using a Process-Based Modelling Approach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 161–165. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Tidal inlet systems provide a dynamic connection between the ocean and water mass behind their barriers and are subjected to human intervention and natural changes. An understanding of the dynamic processes in tidal inlet systems is important for decision makers managing these areas. Most previous studies are focused on a basin connected to the ocean via a single inlet. But multi-inlet systems have more complexity than the typical single-inlet system, especially considering the interaction among different inlets. In this study, following the realistic analogue approach, we have adopted a morphodynamic process-based model (Delft3D) as a numerical lab and set up a model for a schematized double-inlet tidal system to investigate the stability of such systems. We have carried out a series of simulations and systematically changed the width and initial depth of the inlets and also the amount of sediment coming to the inlet due to littoral drift along the coast. Based on the result of these simulations, first, we developed “Escoffier” type stability curves for each inlet in every simulation. In the second step, we have fixed the cross-sectional area of one inlet and allowed the second inlet to evolve. We used the results of this set of the simulations to develop a 3D stability “Escoffier” curve as a function of the cross-sectional areas of both inlets and equilibrium velocity and identified stable and unstable equilibrium conditions. In the third step, to test these equilibrium points, we altered the stable system in seven different ways to show that the system goes back to one of these equilibrium conditions.
Gabarrou, S.; Le Cozannet, G.; Parteli, E.J.R.; Pedreros, R.; Guerber, E.; Millescamps, B.; Mallet, C., and Oliveros, C., 2018. Modelling the Retreat of a Coastal Dune under Changing Winds. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 166–170. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal dunes can move in response to winds and cause serious hazard to human assets. Changes in wind patterns, potentially occurring as a consequence of climate change or variability, could affect rates of aeolian transport and migration velocity of coastal dunes. However, most of previous modeling studies were conducted assuming that aeolian bedforms are subject to constant wind velocities. This article presents a modeling of the mobility of the Dune du Pilat in Aquitaine, a coastal transverse dune exposed to winds of varying intensity. It applies well-established models and empirical formula for aeolian dune migration, including a model previously validated against measurements of real profiles of desert and coastal dunes. The average migration velocity of Pilat dune predicted by the models is about 3m/year, which is in good agreement with in-situ measurements. To test the response of transverse dune mobility to changing winds, virtual wind time series are generated using a stochastic model. Modelling experiments suggest that more frequent storms have less impacts than more intense winds. Due to the size of the Pilat Dune (altitude of about 100m), these result in moderate changes in the average dune velocity. This study shows that the approach of combining a stochastic model for winds with a morphodynamic dune model can provide valuable insight into how aeolian bedforms respond to changes in flow conditions potentially caused by climate change.
Tojo, K. and Udo, K., 2018. Analysis of beach recovery after the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake Tsunami based on shoreline extraction by ISODATA technique. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 171–175. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The 2011 Tohoku earthquake tsunami caused the disappearance of beaches over a wide area. Understanding of the beach recovery process after the tsunami is important for long-term coastal management. This study aimed to develop a highly accurate method of shoreline extraction using satellite and aerial images and to clarify characteristics of beach recovery by analyzing shoreline changes in the tsunami-affected area. Shorelines extracted by the Iterative Self Organizing Data Analysis Technique (ISODATA) with tidal- and wave-corrections agree well with those obtained from topography measurements. In addition, the shorelines extracted from 406 images from before the tsunami to four years after it at 44 beaches demonstrated the shorelines tended to be recovered at plain coasts and not to be recovered at ria coasts. It is confirmed that the method based on ISODATA is highly accurate and significantly reduces the time and labor.
Jeong, E.Y.; Park, J.-Y., and Hwang, C.-S., 2018. Assement of UAV Photogrammetric Mapping Accuracy in the Beach Environment In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 176–180. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study evaluated the accuracy of UAV photogrammetry for subaerial beach morphology. Beach is characterized by complicated morphology due to the influence of coastal processes and is mainly composed of monochromatic sandy sediments. Therefore, it is required to validate the applicability of UAV photogrammetry that finds matching points from geographical features within images to create the 3D topographic data. For the accuracy test, a beach site which consisted of both typical sandy beach characteristics at the beach face and tidal flat features at the intertidal zone, was selected. The vertical accuracy of both the fixed-wing and the rotary-wing UAVs were tested using various flight altitudes, image overlap percentages, and GCPs configurations. The accuracy of the photogrammetric surveying results were examined by comparing them to reference data measured by LiDAR. The flight altitude should be set in such a way that the captured images include more geographical features in the beach environment, especially in the tidal flat. When the UAV photogrammetry is performed at a flight altitude of less than 150 m and with over 70% overlap using GCPs of 50 m grid spacing in the beach, topography with a RMSE accuracy of less than 4.9 cm can be obtained. And, it is required to place at least 5 GCPs homogeneously within the area of 300 x 100 m for accurate beach mapping by UAV photogrammetric survey.
Terefenko, P.; Giza, A.; Paprotny, D.; Kubicki, A., and Winowski, M., 2018. Cliff Retreat Induced by Series of Storms at Międzyzdroje (Poland). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 181–185. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In Międzyzdroje, a coastal town in Poland, significant cliff retreat has been observed in recent times. It used to be considered mainly a response to storm events with particularly high water levels and wave energy. However, morphology of cliff coasts is shaped not only by the most extreme storm surges or by a number of accompanying processes such as precipitation. Much wider effects are now being linked to the occurrence of series of subsequent storms. This research uses a set of five terrestrial LiDAR surveys carried out between November 2016 and April 2017 to determine short-term cliff erosion associated with two major storm surges and several smaller storms. The surveys covered the whole cliff profile as well as the topography of the adjacent beach.
Results indicate a considerable reduction in beach levels as a first important effect. Frequency of the storm events prevented the beach from recovering between the surges, allowing the waves to directly attack the cliff base. Consequently, the cliff foot line retreated up to 4.7 m. This resulted in an erosion volume exceeding 25.000 m3 within 5 sections of the coastal cliff analysed, which are 500 m long in total.
This work demonstrates that the development of the coastline is not only directly linked with the rate of erosion at given storm parameters. More importantly, the frequency of extreme events has to be considered.
Seok, J.-S. and Suh, S.-W., 2018. Efficient real-time erosion early warning system and artificial sand dune breaching on Haeundae Beach, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 186–190. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
An attempt to simulate real-time erosion on Haeundae Beach, Korea, was suggested in a previous study. The present paper is a sequential study comparing coastal sediment spatiotemporal changes on sandy beaches for horizontal and selected transects over a 2-m threshold wave height set with reference to Typhoon Chaba of 2016. It was found that erosion persisted for more than 17 h during the overall typhoon passage. By coupling heterogeneous models created with Perl script, Advanced Circulation (ADCIRC) Simulating Waves Nearshore (SWAN) XBeach, it is possible to satisfactorily predict beach morphology changes 12 h before onslaught, with both qualitative and quantitative accuracy. Moreover, this proposed scheme can be effectively extended for operational purposes. In addition, a series of numerical simulations hindcasting the breaching and downfall of an artificial coastal dune were performed. An artificial sand dune constructed on Haeundae Beach in 2012 breached and collapsed due to storm contact. Here, simulation results indicate that the weak points of the sand dune responded differently to the storm. In addition, the collapsing procedure and magnitude changes occurred differently along the dune. Thus, it can be concluded that precise pre-design of artificial-sand dune location and size is very important, and must be performed for a target storm return period.
Idier, D.; Falqués, A.; Garcin, M., and Rohmer, J., 2018. How observed kilometric sandy shoreline undulations depend on wave climate. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 191–195. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastlines sometimes exhibit km-scale undulations, also called shoreline sandwaves. This work focuses on self-organized undulations and investigates how frequent they are, on which parameters they depend and whether existing theories of morphodynamic instabilities can explain them. We perform a wavelet analysis on shoreline data from areas appearing free of human or geological constraints and representing totally 1268 km around the world. It is found that 61% of cases exhibit undulations with wavelengths in the range 1–10 km. The wave parameter that correlates the best with their existence is the incidence angle with respect to shore normal and, to a lesser extent, the closure depth. The shoreline undulation probability increases with the angle, from 50% for low angles to almost 100% for large angles, suggesting that the High-Angle Wave Instability mechanism (HAWI) would be their primary cause, but that Low-Angle Wave Instability (LAWI) may also play a role. These results are consistent with recent theoretical investigations.
Do, K.; Shin, S.; Cox, D., and Yoo, J., 2018. An international comparison of drowning in South Korea. In: Shim, J.- S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 196–200. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal sand dune system is important in the nearshore environment for sand supply, ecosystem, and hazard mitigation. In this study, a process-based morphological model was performed and the results were compared with large-scale laboratory experimental data. Two-dimensional large-scale laboratory experiments were conducted with 1:6 geometric scale in the large wave flume (104m (L) × 3.7 m (W) × 4.6 m (D)) of the Hinsdale Wave Research Laboratory at Oregon State University (Maddux et al, 2006). Several different wave conditions were used with different water levels in this experiment including pre-storm, storm, and post storm based on random wave time series by using TMA spectrum. The data set included cross-shore Wave heights, fluid velocities, and the profile changes of the beach and dune. The process based model, XBeach (Roelvink et al., 2009) was used to simulate the nearshore hydrodynamics and bed level change during storm wave condition. Several semi-empirical parameters were used in the XBeach model to predict morphodynamic process (Roelvink et al., 2009) and recently the updated parameters (WTI settings) were suggested based on the results of field observations. The present study ran the XBeach model by using both default and WTI settings and compared with the results from the experiments. The results showed that the model results with WTI settings showed good agreement with the measured beach profile while the model results with default settings over-predicted the offshore sediment transport and dune erosion. Especially, the wave skewness (facSk) and asymmetry (facAs) gave the highest contribution to predict dune erosion.
Chang, Y.S.; Huisman, B.; Boer, W., and Yoo, J., 2018. Hindcast of Long-term Shoreline Change due to Coastal Interventions at Namhangjin, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 201–205. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Namhangjin beach is protected by multiple submerged breakwaters (SBWs) which were built to protect the ~4 km long sandy beach. A coastline model (UNIBEST) was used to investigate the long term effect of the SBW structures on the beach. The model computes long-term shoreline changes due to coastal structures as a result of the strong longshore sediment transport gradients at the structures. Bathymetry data of the shoreface and nearshore profiles were obtained from a field survey, while wave conditions from offshore WAM hindcast (Wave Modeling Group) were transformed towards the nearshore with the Delft3D SWAN modelling system. Local wave sheltering by the SBWs was included in the wave model. A situation with and without the SBWs was modelled. A rapid adjustment of the shoreline was observed in the model as a result of the wave conditions in the first two years. After that, the shoreline shape stabilized without significant changes both for the situation with and without SBWs. A smooth curved coastline shape was obtained in the model without SBWs, while the model with SBWs shows a similar overall shoreline shape with undulations of the shoreline shape behind the breakwaters. A similar undulating shoreline was observed in the Sept-2013 imagery at Namhangjin beach. The local accretion behind the SBWs may induce some erosion in the lee area of the SBWs, causing distortions of the shoreline shape. Most sediment accreted at the first SBW (i.e. the northern most SBW where alongshore transport from the North was trapped), while the coastline change rate gradually decreased towards the South. The effectiveness of the SBWs at the considered shoreline section for maintaining the shoreline is somewhat ambiguous as local areas with accretion or erosion are present with respect to the situation without the breakwaters. The results show that multiple SBWs need to be carefully designed to protect beaches as local distortions of the shoreline shape may be present directly downdrift from the structures.
Anne-Lise Montreuil, Margaret Chen, Evelien Brand, Glenn Strypsteen, Pieter Rauwoens, Annelies Vandenbulcke, Alain De Wulf, Sebastian Dan, Toon Verwaest
Montreuil, A-L.; Chen, M.; Brand, E.; Strypsteen, G.; Rauwoens, P.; Vandenbulcke, A.; De Wulf, A.; Dan, S., and Verwaest, T., 2018. Dynamics of surface moisture content on a macro-tidal beach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 206–210. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Surface moisture content is a significant factor controlling aeolian sand transport. It is influenced by atmospheric, marine and sub-surface processes. Although several studies reported direct links in surface moisture content with the processes responsible for those variations, there is still a lack of understanding of its dynamic on a macro-tidal beach. This study aims to investigate spatial and temporal dynamics in the surface moisture content of a macro-tidal beach, and to determine the relative importance of factors controlling these. A field experiment was performed on a dissipative and non-barred beach at Mariakerke (Belgium) during an aeolian sand transport event in March 2017. Surface moisture content was measured from the backshore to the tidal zone using a video monitoring system. Simultaneous measurements of grain size, volumetric moisture content, groundwater level, atmospheric conditions, wind parameters, water level and topography were carried out. The hourly generated moisture maps indicate a clear cross-shore gradient of decreasing surface moisture content from the intertidal zone (ranging from 4–18%) to the backshore (none–8%), while it is more complex in the alongshore dimension. The backshore experienced the most rapid reduction of moisture content below 4% with a dryness rate of the surficial zone reaching 29% per hour in the late morning. It progressively continued to dry in the afternoon when sand strips, mobile aeolian bedforms, were well developed. Changes in moisture content over the beach surface reflect the atmospheric (solar radiation and wind) and marine (tidal elevation, wave and groundwater level) conditions and internal beach characteristics such as bedforms produced by aeolian sand transport and topography. Thus the continuous combinations of direct and indirect interactions between all these factors contribute to the spatial and temporal dynamics of surface moisture content. A better knowledge of the dynamics of the surface moisture content is a necessary prerequisite for the development of models and to compute budgets of aeolian sand transport.
Nakashita, S.; Woo, H.; Kim, K.; Kim, K.; Lee, I.-C.; Kim, D.-S., and Hibino, T., 2018. Influence of Kuroshio path on Salinity distribution in Seto Inland Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 21–25. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study analyzes residual current and salinity distribution in Seto Inland Sea induced by Kuroshio Path variation. The salinity ranged 30 - 34 PSU and it decreased by approximately 1 - 2 PSU at near center of Bisanseto during non-meandering period. Sea level height variations at both boundary of Seto Inland Sea which induces residual current mainly depends on distance between boundaries and Kuroshio Path because of higher sea level hight at Kuroshio path than than that at northern part of Kuroshio path approximately 1 m. Westward residual flow during the non-meandering period (year 1997) was estimated to be faster than that during the meandering period with maximum relative velocity of 4.5 cm/sec. Decrease of salinity at near center of Bisanseto is due to the westward movement of the river water plume from the eastern Bisanseto. From the results obtained above, it is concluded that location of low salinity water at Bisanseto is mainly depends on the residual current due to variation of Kuroshio Path.
Kumar, S.S. and Murali, R.M., 2018. In-Situ observations of mudbanks of southwest coast of India and mapping of its extent in 2016. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 211–215. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Formation of mudbanks in Alleppey, south-west coast of India is an annual phenomenon which is widely discussed, and many hypotheses have been proposed on its formation. The presence of fluid mud in a levitated condition in the bottom is believed to be the cause of the formation. In this study, in-situ measurements of the Suspended Sediment Concentration (SSC) were carried out for five months in the year 2016 during the monsoon using the Laser interferometry instrument (LISST 100X). This observation was to determine the variations in the SSC in the water column and to delineate the zone of mudbank. One station inside the mudbank (M2) and other two stations outside the mudbank (M1&M3) were considered. During the monthly observations, huge difference in the near bottom SSC from 600–700 mg/l in the mudbank region and 300–400 mg/l in the outer regions indicates the extent of the mudbank region. The particle sizes were ranging from clay to sand. The concentration of clay particles has abruptly reduced from 50 mg/l to 15 mg/l in surface waters at the outer regions of mudbank. It was also found that these suspended particles have settled back after the monsoon. Observations for periphery demarcation was carried out during the mid of the monsoon (26 July 2016) with 30 stations in five different transects covering both inside and outside regions of the mudbank. Based on the variations in the concentration and the particle sizes, mudbank periphery was demarcated. The mudbank periphery was identified here with the presence of high concentration of clay particles near the sea bottom. The total particle concentration level at near bottom varied from 600 mg/l in the mudbank stations to 200 mg/l at outside regions. Fivefold increase in the concentration of clay particles at the near bottom in mudbank stations revealed the extent of mudbank region. The presence of clay particles was more than fifty percent of the total concentration. The concentrations of clay near the bottom in stations 11, 12 and 29 have increased from 50 mg/l to 250 mg/l, 20 mg/l to 100 mg/l and 40 mg/l to 200 mg/l respectively. This abrupt increase showed the presence of mudbank and was used to demarcate its periphery.
Tao, J.; Xu, F.; Yao, P.; Zhou, Z., and Zhang, C., 2018. The variations of sediment transport patterns in the radial sand ridges along the Jiangsu coast, China over the last 30 years. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 216–220. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The research objective is to clarify the primary factors lead to the variations of the suspended sediment transport in the radial sand ridges (RSRs) along the Jiangsu Coast over the last 30 years. The suspended sediment concentration (SSC) fields measured in several field surveys from 1980 to 2010 were analyzed. The field data indicate that the SSCs in 1980 are higher than those 2010. A two-dimensional numerical model was developed to simulate the inter-annual variations of the suspended sediment transport. Generally, the magnitude of the SSC is highly relevant with the current speed, which peaks around the Old Yellow River Delta (OYRD) and in the central RSRs. However, the northern part of the RSRs indicates higher SSC than the southern part, which is attributed to their different bed sediment composition. The net suspended sediment flux was calculated. In the north of the RSRs, the sediments are transported in the south direction, which implies a sediment input from the OYRD to the RSRs. In the south of the RSRs, a net sediment loss was observed, which is consistent with the decreasing of the sediment flux from the Yangtze River. The simulated suspended sediment transport in 1980 and 2010 mutually show similar spatial patterns, while SSCs in 1980 are overall larger than those in 2010. It is concluded that the decrease of the SSCs from 1980 to 2010 is attributed to the reduction of the OYRD and the large-scale reclamation along the Jiangsu coast, while the sediment fluxes from the Yangtze River is less important.
Talavera, L.; Del Río, L.; Benavente, J.; Barbero, L., and López-Ramírez, J.A., 2018. UAS & SfM-based approach to Monitor Overwash Dynamics and Beach Evolution in a Sandy Spit. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 221–225. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The role of overwash processes is of great relevance in the long-term evolution of sandy barriers, and it can also affect coastal infrastructures in the short term. In this work, a 10-month monitoring program based on the use of Unmanned Aerial Systems (UAS) in combination with Structure from Motion (SfM) algorithms was performed in order to monitor morphological changes and ulterior evolution at Camposoto beach, an overwash-prone coastal spit located in SW Spain. This UAS&SfM approach allowed the reconstruction of 6 Digital Elevation Models (DEMs) of the area with high temporal and spatial resolutions (RMS vertical errors spanning from 5 to 8 cm). The morphological changes occurred were detected using Geomorphic Change Detection Software in ArcGIS, and they were correlated with the oceanographic conditions that prevailed during the analysed period. The results obtained provided insight into the response of the system against storm-induced overwash, which caused significant erosion/accretion patterns over a pre-existing washover fan, as well as the landward migration of the system. In addition, this methodology captured the progressive partial recovery of the system, which included onshore transport of sand, fore-beach accretion, and berm reconstruction. Despite the partial recovery observed, spring tides also triggered non-storm overwash in the area during fair-weather conditions, allowing to rethink the actual vulnerability state of the spit against rollover processes.
Bastos, A.P.; Ponte Lira, C.; Calvão, J.; Catalão, J.; Andrade, C.; Pereira, A.J.; Taborda, R.; Rato, D.; Pinho, P., and Correia, O., 2018. UAV Derived Information Applied to the Morphological Study of Slow-changing Dune Systems. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 226–230. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
São João da Caparica (Portugal) slow-growing dune system was investigated using field-based GPS and UAV surveying methods. Here, vegetation may preclude straightforward extraction of ground surface data from DSM and low sedimentation rates demand high accuracy. The approach used comprised acquisition of UAV-derived DSM and RGB orthomosaics at flight-heights of 30 and 60 m. Results were compared with DTM derived from traditional RTK-GPS ground surveys. Two methods (M1 and M2) where used to convert UAV-derived DSM into a DTM, both departing from supervised classification of land cover. In M1, vegetation areas are removed from the original DSM, which is then re-interpolated. M2 redefines elevation of pixels corresponding to vegetation by subtracting a mean height parameter defined for each vegetation class.
It was found that DTM derived from UAV and RTK-GPS data exhibit errors in the same order of magnitude, regardless of the higher resolution of the former. M2 yielded the best compromise when considering deviations in both profile and surface analysis. M2 is strongly dependent on vegetation classification and on parametrization of the vertical correction affecting each vegetation class. UAV methodology presents the best cost-benefit ratio relative to traditional RTK-GPS surveys, providing additional image information (RGB orthomosaic) synchronous of the topographic data.
Yuhi, M. and Umeda, S., 2018. Characteristics of systematic migrations of multiple sandbars and related cross-shore sediment transport at Chirihama and adjacent coasts, Japan. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 231–235. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Characteristics of systematic migration of multiple bar system on the Chirihama and adjacent coasts, Japan, have been investigated based on a set of annual field surveys collected over 11 years. The morphological variations were first separated into time-averaged profiles and deviation components. An EOF analysis was conducted on the deviation components in order to extract the principal modes of periodic bar migration. The migration cycle consisting of generation, migration and degeneration were well reproduced by the combination of first and second modes. The cross-shore sediment transport and sediment volume variation related to bar migration were then examined. An integration of the equation for sediment volume conservation revealed that the principal modes of cross-shore sediment transport was characterized by the spatial integration of spatial eigen-functions and the temporal derivative of the temporal eigen-functions. Corresponding to the cyclic behaviors of sandbar system, the direction of sediment transport changed alternatively between seaward and landward directions. On short-term, cyclic exchange of sediment occurred between the bar migration zone and foreshore, but on long-term the principal modes of bar migration made little contribution to overall sediment volume variation.
Dai, W.Q.; Li, H.; Zhou, Z.; Cybele, S.; Lu, C.Z.; Zhao, K.; Zhang, X.Y.; Yang, H.T., and Li, D.Y., 2018. UAV Photogrammetry for Elevation Monitoring of Intertidal Mudflats. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 236–240. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Elevation is a significant factor in analyzing the topographical evolution of intertidal mudflats. However, the difficult access to the site due to the muddy sediment and the tidal creeks make the traditional observations more arduous. Unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) platforms are nowadays a low-cost source of data for surveillance, mapping and 3D modeling. A multi-rotary UAV was set up with a camera to acquire multi-view images of mudflats in the Yancheng Rare Birds Nature Reserve, China. The procedure for deriving 3-D model was based on the Structure from Motion (SfM) algorithm for Multiview Stereophotogrammetry. Ground control points (GCPs), measured by Real Time Kinematic (RTK), were utilized as reference coordinates to generate the 3-D model and Digital Elevation Model (DEM). Ground references were applied to validate the accuracy of the DEM. However, due to the inhomogeneity and complexity of the ground, representing overall height with a single point would lead to uncertainty. In order to make the accuracy evaluation tend to reality, we employed circular ground references (CGRs) to validate the DEM. The CGRs were measured by a Rod Surface Elevation Table (Rod-SET) system within a circular area of radius 1.4 meter. For each survey, a DEM are computed by SfM photogrammetry, providing a surface representation of the study area. The spatial resolution for DEM is 7.5cm. With reference to the CGRs data, the DEM has a high vertical accuracy with a root mean square error (RMSE) of 10 cm. Repeated acquisitions of high-resolution DEMs enable monitoring of erosion and deposition, computing volumetric changes through time, and assessing sediment budgets. The results demonstrated that UAV can be used for regular mudflats monitoring activities and provide accurate insights into geomorphological processes.
Zhang, Q.; Gong, Z.; Zhang, C.K.; Lacy, J.R.; Jaffe, B.E., and Xu, B.B., 2018. Bed Shear Stress Estimation Under Wavy Condition Using near-bottom Measurements: Comparison of Methods. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 241–245. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Understanding the influence of waves on bed shear stress is critical for predicting morphodynamical behaviours in coastal areas. Near-bed flow was measured on the middle and lower intertidal mudflats along the Jiangsu coast, China, using a three-dimensional acoustic velocimeter that collected a 3.5-cm vertical profile at 1mm resolution and sample rate of 25 Hz. On the lower and middle tidal flats, velocities from ~2.5–6 cmab (cm above bed) and ~0–3 cmab were measured, respectively. Current-induced bed shear stresses were calculated from turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) at the 11th measurement layer (i.e., 5.1 cm below the probe) using wave-turbulence decomposition and from a logarithmic fit to the horizontal mean velocity profile (LP). A wave boundary layer extended from the bed up to 3 cmab when the significant wave height was 0.23 m; when it was present the near-bed mean velocity profile was non-logarithmic. Waves suppress the development of a vertical velocity gradient and lead to an overestimation of bed shear stress when calculated using the log profile assumption. The TKE method is more accurate than the LP method when waves are present and measurements are at least partially within the wave boundary layer. Accurate calculation of current-induced bed shear stress depends on probe height and wave conditions.
Sherman, D.J., 2018. Megaripple/flat bed transition in rip current channels. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 246–250. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Megaripple and flat bed conditions are common bed configurations in energetic nearshore environments. Their existence is controlled by shear stresses associated with wave orbital motion, superimposed net flows, and water depth, representing flow regimes. This is based on the premise of a characteristic set of flow conditions associated with particular bed configurations. A simple flow regime sequence for surf zones is ripples, megaripples (or dunes), and flat bed. Each of these bed configurations may include several secondary characteristics. Despite the importance of understanding flow regime ranges and transitions, there have been few detailed studies for characteristic megaripple and flat bed conditions. This paper presents the results of a field experiment designed to acquire flow, sedimentological, and bedform data from rip current feeder channels in an inner surf zone of a barred nearshore. Waves and water depths were measured with pressure transducers, and currents were measured with bidirectional current meters. Sand samples were gathered and bed configurations were measured and photographed by divers. Analysis indicates that the mobility number, as calculated with a number of characteristic velocities, provides first-order bedform discrimination. Observations indicate that bedform transitions can occur over sub-hour time spans, although the response times are slower as combined wave and current velocities are reduced. Under the latter conditions, especially, non-equilibrium configurations may persist.
Xu, B.B.; Gong, Z.; Zhang, Q.; Zhang, C.K., and Zhao, K., 2018. Non-equilibrium suspended sediment transport on the intertidal tidal flats of Jiangsu coast, China. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 251–255. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Accurate modelling of instantaneous sediment transport processes in coastal environments has been a great challenge for many decades. One of the difficulties comes from the existence of time lag between flow and sediment transport, termed as “the non-equilibrium transport effect”. To better understand and simulate the sediment transport processes, field observations were conducted on the middle intertidal flats of Jiangsu coast. Water depths, current velocity profiles, wave parameters, stratified suspended sediment concentrations (SSC), as well as grain sizes of both suspended sediment and bed sediment were measured. Results show that suspended sediment has an average grain size of 11.2 μm, the percentage of cohesive suspended sediment can be up to 97%. The bed load has an average grain size of 40 μm, the percentage of cohesive sediment is only 76%. The measured maximum SSC occurs at the beginning and the end of each tidal cycle. It is well-mixed during flood and ebb peak, but stratified during slack period. The vertical equilibrium SSC profiles were calculated based on the advection-diffusion theory. Calculated equilibrium SSC is well-mixed during whole tidal cycle and is controlled by the local hydrodynamics. The difference between calculated equilibrium SSC and real ones indicates that the contribution of advection is dominant. Thus the non-equilibrium suspended sediment transport processes should be taken into account for intertidal flat evolution.
Lee, Y.B.; Kim, H.D., and Kwak, K., 2018. Verification of Beach Erosion in West Coast of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 256–260. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The factors that cause the coastal erosion are different depending on where the wave field dominates and where the tide effect is large; however, most coastal erosion studies have been conducted on areas where waves are dominant. The west coast of Korea has maximum tide difference of more than 9 m. This study aided to examine the relationship between coastal erosion and the area where the effect on tide is large. The selected study field, Kkotji Beach, is a representative coastal tourist location on the west coast of Korea. Due to serious coastal erosion, sandy beach has been graveled and the number of tourist has decreased which resulted in great economic loss. In this study, field observations and numerical simulations were used simultaneously. For the field observations, beach profile measurement, sediment observation, wave observation, and tide and current observations were conducted to investigate and analyze the causes of the coastal erosion. Numerical simulations were used to consider both wave and tide by reproducing the coastal erosion phenomenon and compare to the field observations. The effects of the tide on coastal erosion were presented through the simulations. As a result, the suspected causes of the erosion of the Kkotji Beach are the W direction induced wave during the winter, reduction of the erosion control forest due to coastal development, and large tide difference.
Moh, T.; Cho, J.H.; Jung, S.-K.; Kim, S.-H., and Son, Y.B., 2018. Monitoring of the Changjiang River plume in the East China Sea using a wave glider. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 26–30. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Most water from the Changjiang River discharges into the East China Sea (ECS), and affects the sea's oceanographic environment, even near Jeju Island, Korea. However, most research conducted using vessels, buoys, and satellite systems has a limited capacity for continuous direct measurement over a wide area. To overcome these spatial and temporal limitations, an autonomous wave-powered glider equipped with a fluorometer, a conductivity-temperature-depth, and an acoustic Doppler current profiler was deployed. Over 34 days from August 19 to September 22 in 2016, the wave glider navigated 985 km in the ECS near Jeju Island, and sensed 34,500 continuous water columns every minute. The glider transmitted the data via the Iridium satellite communication system, even under severe weather conditions. The wave glider detected low salinity and high turbidity of the surface water southwest of Jeju Island. Comparison of the surface turbidity and back-scattered echo intensity revealed that the surface turbid water migrated from west to south of Jeju Island. It descended slightly through chaning of the mixed layer depth. The observations from this study suggest that wave gliders can provide reliable sensing and maneuvering capabilities for monitoring of the Changjiang River plume in the ECS.
Umeda, S.; Yuhi, M., and Karunarathana, H., 2018. Seasonal to Decadal Variability of Shoreline Position on a Multiple Sandbar Beach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 261–265. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Seasonal to decadal variability of shoreline position at a long multi-barred beach with gentle slopes was investigated using a dataset of biannual shoreline surveys of 23 years. An empirical orthogonal function (EOF) and spectral analysis on 15.2 km long stretch were conducted to describe characteristic patterns of shoreline variation at multiple scales in time and space. A relatively alongshore uniform shoreline migration toward offshore in summer and onshore in winter was dominant in the first EOF mode which secondarily exhibited a long-term trend of shoreline recession. Mid-term shoreline variations related to shoreline sand wave and longshore sandbars were represented by the combinations of the second to sixth EOF modes filtered through two bands of dominant frequency. The shoreline pattern reconstructed on a longer time scale represented a large scale shoreline undulation whose scale and migration speed were comparable to shoreline sand waves observed in various coasts. On the otherhand, the shoreline pattern reconstructed on a shorter time scale represented alongshore uniform shoreline migration toward onshore and offshore in about five-year cycles, which corresponded to the average cycle of net offshore sandbar migration observed at the site. The periodic shoreline recession-advance related to sandbar migration was estimated to be comparable to seasonal scale shoreline variation. A correlation analysis between seasonal scale shoreline variation and wave statistics exhibited that shoreline advance in summer increased with low wave heights. It was suggested that a moderate waves were responsible for seasonal scale shoreline advance in this coast.
Santos, M.I.; Oliveira, F.S.B.F., and Trigo-Teixeira, A., 2018. Characterization of Maritime Storms and Analysis of their Effect on the Beaches South of the Mondego River (Portugal). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 266–270. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In the study of coastal processes and coastal dynamics, the analysis of the storms impact is one of the most discussed topics in terms of management and defense of the coastal sector. The Portuguese west coast is exposed to the energetic wave climate that characterizes the North Atlantic, thus requiring permanent care as regards the efficient coastline management and planning. Indeed, the risk associated with erosion and flooding of vulnerable areas is a constant concern, making it imperative to predict the impact of these events and the response of the beach-dune systems. This study focuses on maritime storms and on the morphological response of the beach to these short-term events. The two main objectives are to characterize the storms regime in the coastal stretch between the Mondego and the Lis rivers' inlets based on the wave time series (hindcast) from the period 1952–2010, and to evaluate the impact of the storms duration on erosive events, using a short-term morphodynamic numerical model, LITPROF. This model is used for the analysis of the effect of storms on the beach morphology and thus, for comparing the erosive effect of events with the same relative storm power and different duration. The statistical analysis of the wave climate time series showed a coastal storms regime with high inter-annual and intra-annual variability in number, duration and relative storm power of events, characterized by a strong seasonality, with an average duration and relative storm power of 3 days and 2654 m2.h, respectively. The most frequent events are simultaneously in the classes [1–2[ days and [800–1600[ m2.h (36% of occurrences). The numerical model, applied to several scenarios, predicted the dominance of the duration factor for storms with similar relative storm power, leading to the conclusion that longer duration storms always generate larger erosive effects (and higher transport rates) in the cross-shore profile, when compared with storms of shorter duration.
Shi, H.Y.; You, Z.J.; Yin, B.S., and Bai, Y.C., 2018. Critical Depths Derived for Three Distinct Modes of Coastal Sediment Transport. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 271–275. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A unified criterion is developed for three distinct modes of coastal sediment transport: incipient movement of sediment (only bedload), initiation of bedripple formation (bedload and suspended load), and inception of bed ripple disappearance or sheet flow (mainly bed load) based on three unique laboratory datasets collected on a horizontal bed of sediment under regular waves. The onset velocity criterion on the three distinct sediment transport modesis derived to be of the same simple form, U0 = 2πC (1 − T0/T), where U0 is the maximum on set wave orbital velocity close to the bed, T is the wave period, and C and T0 are the coefficients dependent of sediment property only. The newly developed criterion is then extended to calculate critical depths for the distinct modes of sediment transport under coastal waves by replacing regular wave height H and period T with statistical wave height Hrms and period Trms according to the recently developed “zero-crossing and energy balance” wave analysis method and linear wave theory. The critical depth calculated from this unified criterion is shown to be a function of sediment grain size and density, and wave height and period, but more sensitive to wave period. The critical depth estimated for the initiation of bed sediment ripple formation is found to be much larger than the depth of closure derived for beach-fill designs.
Guillot, B., Castelle, B., Marieu, V., Bujan, S., and Rosebery, D., 2018. UAV Monitoring of 3-year foredune partial recovery from a severe winter: Truc Vert beach, SW France. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 276–280. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The recent development of ultra-light civil UAVs and photogrammetric techniques provides new and efficient means to remotely sense the coastal topography at high spatial and temporal resolutions along spatially extensive areas. Truc Vert, SW France, is a high-energy meso-macrotidal beach backed by a preserved high and wide coastal dune system. This coastal dune system, which had been relatively stable over the last 70 years, was severely eroded during the winter of 2013/2014 with 800-m long and up to 8-m high cuspate erosion scarps. Since then, the foredune has been slowly recovering. This 3-year period was characterized, at the early stage, by the destabilisation of the scarped dune by trough blowouts, scarp slumping and filling and seasonal beach berm dynamics. The onset of foredune recovery occurred subsequently, and was characterized by the development of a dune ramp. This ramp provided efficient conduit for beach-dune delivery/exchange of sediment by the end of the study despite the high-energy winter of 2015/2016 drove localized dune erosion. The coastal dune did not fully recover with an approximately 60% average recovery within 3 years, an overall accretion due primarily to incipient foredune formation and foredune growth in height. The timing and magnitude of the incomplete recovery sequence from the UAV surveys provide an outstanding measure of coastal dune resilience to severe storms in this region of the world.
Atkinson, J.; Esteves, L.S.; Williams, J.W.; McCann D.L., and Bell, P.S., 2018. The Application of X-Band Radar for Characterisation of Nearshore Dynamics on a Mixed Sand and Gravel Beach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 281–285. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Remote sensing using X-band radar allows the estimation of wave parameters, near surface currents and the underlying bathymetry. This paper explores the use of radar to derive nearshore bathymetry at a complex site, at Thorpeness in Suffolk, UK. The site has a history of sporadic and focused erosion events along the beach frontage and as part of the X-Com project (X-band Radar and Evidence-Based Coastal Management Decisions) a radar system was deployed with the aim of further understanding the complex nearshore sediment processes influencing erosion. Initially, the bathymetric variation at the site is quantified through analysis of current and historic multibeam surveys. These indicate depth changes approaching 3 m. Subsequently, validation of the radar data against concurrent multibeam survey data has been undertaken. Results show that the radar derived bathymetry has a precision of ±1m at the site, with the largest errors being associated with areas of more complex bathymetry and where wave data quality was less suitable for analysis by the X-band radar bathymetry algorithms. It is concluded that although the accuracy of radar-derived bathymetry is lower than traditional multibeam survey, the low cost for high temporal coverage can be utilised for long-term monitoring of coastal sites where a cost-effective means of quantifying large-scale bathymetric changes is required.
Jeong, S.I.; Kwon, H.-H., and Lee, S.O., 2018. Estimates of Sediment Pickup Rate Induced by Surge Wave Within a Multi-level Bayesian Regression Framework. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 286–290. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A coastal erosion was caused by the tractive force of wave, and is accelerating in some areas. In this study, a hydraulic experiment considered the pickup concept was carried out to understand this phenomenon. Since existing methods for deriving suspended sediment concentrations (SSC) were likely to affect the results, image processing techniques was used. Preliminary experiments were conducted for this process. Because relevant data necessarily involves uncertainty, a two-step Bayesian Markov Chain Monte Carlo method (MCMC) was used to quantitatively derive it. The first step was about the relationship between image grayscale and turbidity, and then relationship between SSC and turbidity was presented for quantative analysis to show sediment pickup rate. A sluice gate was designed for rapid openning to generate a solitary wave, and the optimum opening speed was derived. The experimental result indicated that the physical characteristics of wave and suspended sediment pickup rate were closely related, and this relationship was changed according to wave breaking. And solitary wave pickup function was presented by adapting Einstein (1950)'s essential concepts. More precise pickup rate can be used as basic data for prevention of coast erosion and management of shoreline.
Li, H.; Gong Z.; Dai, W.Q.; Lu, C.Z.; Zhang, X.Y; Cybele, S., and Guo, H.T., 2018. Feasibility of elevation mapping in muddy tidal flats by remotely sensed moisture (RSM) method. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 291–295. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
It is hard for traditional ways to measure muddy intertidal topography because of its difficult access and limitation of exposure time. As a result, this paper proposes a new way, called remotely sensed moisture (RSM) method, to retrieve elevation in muddy tidal flats. When the tide ebbs, the intertidal flat exposes gradually from the land to the sea, thus forming a phenomenon of ‘low moisture in high-lying areas and high moisture in low-lying areas’. It can be seen that there may exist the negative correlation between the moisture and elevation of intertidal flat. By means of TM Image at low tide, this paper retrieved the moisture of muddy intertidal flat and found out that there does exist the negative correlation, but relatively low (R2=0.55). Further analysis showed that the remnant water is a critical factor to affect the correlation. After excluding regions nearby waterlines, the correlation between moisture and elevation is improved significantly (R2=0.78). The research demonstrates that RSM method has a potential to map topography of muddy tidal flats.
Jin, C.; Gong, Z.; Geng, L.; Zhao, K.; Xu, B.B., and Coco. G., 2018. Subsurface processes in salt marsh of central Jiangsu coast(China). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 296–300. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Studies of tidal flats morphodynamics tend to ignore subsurface processes like bioturbation or underground water dynamics so that changes in the surface elevation are always considered to be the result of sedimentation/erosion on the soil surface. However, at times, subsurface variations can be as large as elevation changes driven by sedimentation and so control the evolution trend of surface elevation. In this study, four observation sites were set up on the salt marsh in the central Jiangsu coast (China). A three-year field observation campaign has been carried out studying seabed elevation changes. The Surface Elevation Table-Marker Horizon (SET-MH) technique was applied to measure surface elevation and net sedimentation. The subsurface variation was derived from the difference between the surface elevation and the sedimentation. Results show that the changes in surface elevation are not equal to the sedimentation and that subsurface process, responsible for such deviation, are strongly affected by storm surge. Storm surges increase the underground water content leading to the observed expansion of the subsurface soil. The expansion results in the rapid increase of surface elevation and it takes almost one year to recover to the surface elevation before the storm season.
Kuribayashi., T. and Udo., K., 2018. Analysis of wind field over an artificial straight dune by LES simulations. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 301–305. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study analyzed the wind fields around an artificial straight dune by large eddy simulations to investigate the mechanism of its separation into smaller dunes in more than 10 years at the Kashima Coast. The results showed that the change in ground height at the leeward slope was positive at almost all locations, but negative approximately every 50 m when the inflow wind was from an onshore direction. The change decreased approximately every 100 m where the inflow wind was from an offshore direction. The change in 15 years was positive at almost all locations, but at some locations on the south side, the change was negative; however, the change had no noticeable periodicity along the dune.
Rodríguez-Polo, S.; Del Río, L., and Benavente, J., 2018. Longitudinal Distribution of Slope and Sediment Characteristics in Headland-bay Beaches in Cádiz, Spain. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 306–310. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Headland-bay beaches are systems with an asymmetric curved planform that develop downdrift of a natural or artificial coastal headland. These beaches have some common features found along the coasts of the world, presenting a well differentiated zonation. The main objective of this work is to elucidate how parameters such as grain size, sorting and beachface slope in the different zones (shadow, central and distal sectors) determine the final morphology of the beach. For this purpose, twelve headland-bay systems in the coast of Cádiz (South Spain), with contrasting wave and tide regimes, were monitored in order to analyze the longitudinal gradient in slope and sediment distribution. Topographic surveys were conducted and sediment samples were collected and analyzed for grain size. Shore-normal transects were surveyed with a RTK-DGPS (Real Time Kinematics - Differential Global Positioning System) and beach slope was computed on each sector of the beaches. Three sediment samples were taken in each transect, corresponding to the dry beach, the high intertidal zone and the lower intertidal zone. A total of 152 topographic profiles and about 456 sediment samples were analyzed. All this information has allowed to gain insight into how the different parameters vary along the twelve headland-bays, as well as to establish common trends among them and to see how these parameters affect the final morphology of the beach. In a further step, future work will be focused on the detailed analysis of wave processes on each system, in order to more accurately determine the relations between the above parameters and the hydrodynamic regime.
Simionato, C.G. and Moreira, D., 2018. Modeling the processes that control fine sediments transport in the Río de la Plata Estuary. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 31–35. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Numerical models are excellent tools for conducting process studies and testing hypotheses based on observations. They constitute a “virtual laboratory” in which the forcings can be set “on” or “off”, or even the environmental conditions can be modified. The Rio de la Plata (RdP) is one of the most turbid estuaries in the world and the one most important in terms of continental discharge and drainage area. Observations of suspended fine sediments, particularly those remote and in situ collected on recent studies, have driven to the statement of several hypotheses about the processes that would determine the concentration of suspended sediments in the different parts of the estuary. Nevertheless, the relative scarcity of data do not allow to demonstrate the validity of those hypothesis and the role of several physical processes and of the morphology remain unknown. The objective of this work is, therefore, to analyze the role of the different forcing and the environmental conditions in the determination of the distribution of suspended fine sediments in the RdP applying processes oriented numerical simulations.
Olsen, W.S.; Figueiredo, S.A.; Albuquerque, M.G., and Calliari, L.J., 2018. The Role of Local Geomorphology Influencing Coastal Response to Sea Level Rise. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 311–315. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Considering projected climate change scenarios with accelerated rates of mean sea level rise, Cassino Beach in Southern Brazil, a wave dominated low-gradient coastal plain, is inherently at a very high risk in relation to its impacts. Additionally, the presence of small-scale creeks (washouts) can increase coastal susceptibility to erosion in two ways: (i) changing substrate morphology by lowering foredune height; (ii) displacing sediments causing a local deficit. In order to compare coastal response under sea level rise in the presence of a washout versus at well-established foredune, two independent sets of simulation experiments were designed. Simulations were executed using Random Shoreface Translation Model (RanSTM) and considered two sea level rise scenarios (RCP 2.6 and RCP 8.5) projected for the year 2030. Experiment 1 quantified the effects of washouts channels presence (changes in morphology sediment deficit), compared to its absence (foredune) while experiment 2 focused on isolating the effects of changes on substrate morphology from sediment budget. The results showed higher mean coastal retreat for washout substrate compared to foredune. Further data analysis indicated that changes in sediment budget, due to washout presence, exerted higher control under total coastal retreat compared to onshore topography differences in both scenarios.
Gatt, M.P., Deidun, A., Galea, A., and Gauci, A., 2018. Is citizen science a valid tool to monitor the occurrence of jellyfish? The spot the jellyfish case in the Maltese Islands. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 316–320. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The potential of citizen science in monitoring transient biological phenomena occurring over large spatial scales, such as the blooming of jellyfish species, has received increased acknowledgment in recent years. The Spot the Jellyfish citizen science campaign was launched by the International Ocean Institute and by the University of Malta in the summer of 2010, with thousands of jellyfish spotting reports having been submitted by sea-users through the campaign website, social media site, smart phone app or even through email, since then. The 2011–2015 submitted jellyfish reports were analysed, besides a number of water quality parameters (temperature, salinity, chlorophyll a content, nutrient and phytoplankton concentration), whose values were gleaned for the marine area of interest through online satellite water quality data portals. The main aim of this exercise was to seek to identify possible relationships, through a variety of univariate and multivariate statistical techniques, between the distribution of submitted campaign jellyfish records and the same water quality parameters. Possible bias introduced in the report database through artefacts such as differences in bay frequentation were addressed through normalisation procedures. Spatial differences in the abundance of jellyfish reports submitted along different parts of the Maltese coastline emerged, with the highest number of such reports having been submitted along the north-eastern coastline of the island of Malta, and jellyfish sighting reports correlated well with the values of the selected water quality values. Despite this, our results indicate that besides the selected water quality parameters, other forces, possibly hydrodynamic ones, were contributing to the recorded spatial variability in jellyfish occurrence.
Choi, J.U.; Lee, Y.G.; Jeong, D.U.; Choi, Y.H., and Woo, H.J., 2018. Effects of Abalone Farming Cage Removal on the Benthic Foraminiferal Assemblages. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 321–325. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
To improve the aquaculture environment of an abalone farm near the Bogil Island, relocation was executed via the partial relocation of cages. The surface sediments were collected from nine stations to analyze the grain size, geochemical characteristics, and benthic foraminiferal assemblages in May (before) and August (after) 2015. Although no distinct environmental changes in the cage area were observed, the relocation area had an increased sand content caused by water circulation. In addition, despite the increase in the sediment temperature, the ignition loss decreased while the dissolved oxygen in the sediment increased. In the Q-mode cluster analysis, benthic foraminiferal assemblages were divided into Cluster I, which was affected by seawater circulation, and Cluster II, which was affected by the abalone cages. In the R-mode cluster analysis, Assemblage A before cage relocation was divided into Assemblages A1 and A2. Thus, the relocation area where the seawater circulation resumed experienced a change in its environment; furthermore, the benthic ecology showed the possibility of recovery.
Park, J.-I.; Kim, j.-H.; Kim, J.H., and Shim, J.H., 2018. A New and Effective Transplanting Technique Using Wire Netting for Restoration of the Surfgrass, Phyllospadix japonicus, in Exposed Rocky Shores. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 326–330. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The surfgrass Phyllospadix japonicus is an abundant seagrass along the exposed rocky shores of the Korean peninsula. However, many surfgrass meadows on this area have been severely damaged by anthropogenic factors, leading to a growing interest on the restoration of surfgrass habitats. Few attempts have been made to develop transplanting techniques for surfgrass, owing to the low transplant survival in high-energy rocky shores. The present study evaluates the performance of a new transplantation method for P. japonicus based on affixing surfgrass transplants to a stainless steel wire rope netting on the underwater bedrock. In November 2013, P. japonicus individuals were transplanted to the eastern coast of the Korea peninsula using this newly developed wire netting method, and their shoot density, morphology, and growth was observed for 23 months and compared to that of a natural population established nearby. Transplants density gradually increased without significant initial shoot loss during the first year, and rapidly increased up to 3.4 fold during the second year. Transplants size significantly decreased after transplantation and was similar to that of natural shoots approximately 16 months after transplantation, time at which leaf growth was also similar between the two populations. Rhizome elongation in transplanted P. japonicus was approximately 127.9 mm during the study period. Because P. japonicus successfully established at the study site, the transplantation of surfgrass using the wire netting method might offer an effective approach for the restoration of its meadows.
Lee, J.H.; Kim, H.C.; Lee, T.; Lee, W.C.; Kang, J.J.; Jo, N.; Lee, D.; Kim, K.W.; Min, J.-O.; Kang, S., and Lee, S.H., 2018. Intracellular nutrient pools in the Jaran Bay, South Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 331–335. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
It is important to understand intracellular nutrient pools of phytoplankton as a major nutrient remover in coastal areas. The water samples for intracellular nutrient concentrations (ammonium, nitrite nitrate, phosphate, and silicate) of different sizes phytoplankton and nutrient conditions in ambient water column were monthly obtained in a southern coastal area of Korea, Jaran Bay from February to December 2016. The intracellular nutrients of phytoplankton were extracted by the method of osmotic shock combined with heating. The intracellular nutrient concentrations during this study were 0.35–1.79, 0.19–12.63, 0.01–0.40, and 0.54–9.21 μM for ammonium, nitrite nitrate, phosphate, and silicate, respectively. In comparison, the water column nutrient concentrations were 0.26–12.00, 0.05–14.39, 0.002–1.26, and 1.43–48.33 μM for ammonium, nitrite nitrate, phosphate, and silicate, respectively. The contributions of micro-sized (> 20 μm) phytoplankton and pico-sized (0.7–2 μm) phytoplankton accounted for 48.2% and 22.7% of the total chlorophyll a concentration, respectively in this study. The intracellular nutrient concentration per unit of chlorophyll a concentration had a negative relationship with the chlorophyll contribution of micro-sized phytoplankton. This result suggests that larger phytoplankton are appeared to store less intracellular nutrient pools than smaller phytoplankton. This is related to the characteristics of dominant phytoplankton species in Jaran Bay such as Chaetoceros debilis and Chaetoceros affinis which normally accumulate small amounts of intracellular nutrients compared to small phytoplankton. Based on this result, nutrient dynamics in marine ecosystems especially for coastal areas would be different under ongoing larger contributions of small phytoplankton in warming ocean conditions.
Joo, H.; Lee, D.; Kang, J.J.; Lee, J.H.; Jeong, J.-Y.; Son, S.-H.; Kwon, J.-I., and Lee, S.H., 2018. Inter-annual variation of the annual new production of phytoplankton in the southwestern East/Japan Sea estimated from satellite-derived surface nitrate concentration. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 336–340. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The new production of phytoplankton based on nitrate is very important to understand how much portion of primary production passes on to higher trophic levels and sinks into deeper ocean. In this study, the inter-annual variation of the annual new production estimated from MODIS-aqua satellite-derived sea surface nitrate (SSN) concentration was analyzed in the southwestern East/Japan Sea from 2003 to 2015. Climatological SSN concentrations averaged in this study period ranged from 0.47 μM (± 0.16 μM) to 6.95 μM (± 0.20 μM) during the study period. The annual new production based on the estimated SSN ranged from 41.7 g C m−2 yr−1 to 62.8 g C m−2 yr−1. Overall, the average annual new production was 55.8 g C m−2 yr−1 (S.D = ± 11.8 g C m−2 yr−1) in the southwestern East/Japan Sea for 13 years from 2003 to 2015. This value is comparable to those from previous studies but considerably lower than that based on nitrogen stable isotope measurements in the southwestern East/Japan Sea. We found a strong relationship between the annual new production and the sea surface temperature (SST) on February during the study period (y = −11.461 × 180.52, r2 = 0.8796, p < 0.01, n = 13). This result has a very significant ecological meaning in an ocean surface warming scenario since a warming SST could lead a lower annual new production and thus cause significant effects on upper trophic levels in the southwestern East/Japan Sea.
Kim, J.B.; Kim, H.C.; Hong, S., and Park, J.-I., 2018. Mixed Aquaculture of Anadara broughtonii and A. kagoshimensis (Bivalvia: Arcidae) in Jinju Bay on the South Coast of the Korean Peninsula. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 341–345. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The biological characteristics and potential food resources of Anadara broughtonii and Anadara kagoshimensis were investigated from May 2013 to December 2014 to evaluate the effects of culturing the two species together (mixed aquaculture). There was no difference in sea water temperature between the surface and bottom layers, and salinity decreased after high rainfall. The three sites used as test shellfish farms had high mud contents and similar concentrations of chemical parameters in the sediment. To identify the potential food sources of the two species, carbon and nitrogen isotopes were analyzed using a mixing model. The results revealed that coarse particulate organic matter (CPOM) was the primary food for both species, comprising 88–89% of the total food source for A. broughtonii and 80–82% for A. kagoshimensis. There was no significant relationship between shell length, shell height, total weight, fresh tissue weight, dry tissue weight, or shell weight and A. broughtonii aquaculture type (mono or mixed), nor was there any significant relationship between shell length, shell height, or shell weight and A. kagoshimensis aquaculture type (mono or mixed). However, total weight, fresh tissue weight, and dry tissue weight were significantly higher in mixed aquaculture compared with those in A. kagoshimensis mono-aquaculture. Although A. broughtonii and A. kagoshimensis spats of similar weights were planted, the dry tissue weight of A. broughtonii was twice that of A. kagoshimensis after 5 months, and the difference increased to 3.8-fold upon harvest.
Choi, H.C.; Youn, S.H.; Huh, S.-H., and Park, J.M., 2018. Diet composition and feeding habits of two engraulid fish larvae (Engraulis japonicus and Coilia nasus) in the Nakdong River estuary, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 346–350. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Engraulis japonicus and Coilia nasus are members of the family Engraulidae, and their larvae are important components in the estuarian ecosystems that they inhabit. The dietary study of fish larvae is essential to understanding early survival and recruitment in fish populations. This study investigated the dietary compositions and size-related dietary changes in E. japonicus and C. nasus larvae in the Nakdong River estuary. Larvae samples were collected monthly between April and August 2011 using an RN80 net at two stations in the estuary. Gut content analyses revealed that E. japonicus fed mostly on copepods, and secondarily on tintinnids and cladocerans, while C. nasus preferred to consume freshwater cladocerans. These dietary differences between the two larvae were closely related with habitat preference, which provided different local prey sources at each station. As the larvae of both species grew, the consumption of copepods for E. japonicus, and cladocerans for C. nasus, gradually increased, indicating distinct ontogenetic dietary changes. This dietary study of larval E. japonicus and C. nasus is important information for the development of fisheries, and can be implemented in related further studies of areas other than estuaries.
Kim, M.J.; Kim, H.C.; Lee, W.C.; Park, J.M.; Kwak, S.N.; Oh, Y.; Kang, M.G., and Lee, S.H., 2018. Ecological characteristics of the new recorded seahorse in Geoje-Hansan Bay, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 351–355. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A basic ecological research of the seahorse populations has not been done to date even though the population is declining due to overfishing, by-catching and heavy human activities. Recently reported seahorse (Hippocampus haema) samples were monthly collected in Geoje–Hansan bay for a year from August 2015 to August 2016. Standard length (SL), weight (Wt), coronet height (CH), trunk length (TrL), and tail length (TaL) of each individual were measured for identifying characteristics of H. haema. The ranges of temperature and salinity were 8.2–26.0 °C and 29.3–34.1 ‰, respectively. Mean SL and Wt for all the groups were 55.26 ± 16.11 mm and 0.32 ± 0.25 g, respectively. There were significant differences in the relative ratios of each length factor (TrL, TaL and CH) and condition factors (CFs) according to gender or breeding period (ANOVA, p < 0.01). Since pregnant males constituted nearly 40 % (18 individuals) in May and juvenile seahorses were first observed in June, 2016, the recruitment of this species appears to begin in June. Based on our one-year field observation, the duration of the breeding season of the H. haema in Geoje-Hansan bay can be estimated for approximately 7 months long which is similar to other seahorse species (generally 4 to 10 months) inhabiting similar latitudes. The results from this study provide important information for a sustainable management and conservation of the new recorded seahorse species.
Kang, J.J.; Lee, J.H.; Kim, H.C.; Lee, W.C.; Lee, D.; Jo, N.; Min, J.-O., and Lee, S.H., 2018. Monthly variations of phytoplankton community in Geoje-Hansan bay of the southern part of Korea based on HPLC pigment analysis. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 356–360. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Seasonal variations in environmental parameters such as temperature, salinity, and nutrients can significantly affect the community structure of phytoplankton, the primary food source of a marine ecosystem. To understand the influences of environmental factors on phytoplankton community structure, phytoplankton pigments analysis were conducted in the Geoje-Hansan bay situated at the southern part of Korea during January to December, 2016 on monthly basis. Salinity in the water was observed to be fairly stable throughout the study period except for the rainy periods during the summer season (August: 30.3 ± 0.3 and September: 31.1 ± 0.2 psu). Water temperature showed typical seasonal patterns similar to the temperate oceans with maximum values during summer seasons (24.9 ± 0.9 °C). Major nutrients (nitrogen, phosphate, and silicate; hereafter N, P, Si) showed similar patterns of seasonal variation with averages of 3.677 ± 2.707μM, 0.338 ± 0.270μM, and 17.614 ± 9.287μM, respectively, with peak values during December. Phytoplankton community composition estimated using the CHEMTAX program showed distinctive seasonal variations during the study period. The results showed a dominance of dinoflagellates during November – March (>64%) with an exception in December whereas diatoms appeared to be dominant during May – October (60.1%). Dinoflagellates exhibited a negative correlation with temperature, whereas diatoms showed a positive correlation with temperature based on principal components analysis (PCA). Given these findings, a diatom-dominant ecosystem would be expected throughout the year under ongoing ocean warming conditions, which could provide different food qualities to upper trophic levels in the Geoje-Hansan bay.
Lee, J.-H.; Jeong, K.-S.; Lee, D.-H.; Park, K.S., and Woo, H.J., 2018. Elemental (C/N Ratios) Isotope compositions (δ13CTOC and δ15NTN) of surface sediments from the barrier islands in the Nakdong river estuary, South Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 36–40. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Nakdong River Estuary (NRE) in South Korea is a typical, artificially manipulated estuary that is blocked by two large dams. The estuary is characterized by a barrier-lagoon system with various subenvironments and a microtidal domain with a mean tidal range of 1.07–1.50 m. The stable isotopic values (δ13CTOC and δ15NTN) and elemental (C/N ratios) compositions of organic matter, including those of halophytes, from the barrier islands were investigated in the NRE. In May (n = 94) and August (n = 90) 2015, sediment samples were collected on and around three islands in the NRE. The mean grain size of the barrier island system in the NRE ranged from 1.1 to 8.9 Φ (average 3.9 Φ) and the sediment types included muddy sand, sandy mud, and mud. The relative low C/N ratios (average 5.88) imply that the deposited organic matter originated from autochthonous algae derived-sources. The δ13CTOC ranged from −28.2 to −16.8‰VPDB (average −22.5‰VPDB), with δ15NTN in the range 6.2–12.5‰AIR (average 9.4‰AIR). Two halophytes (Phragmites communis and Scirpus planiculmis) had δ13CTOC values that ranged from −29.0 to −25.3‰VPDB (average −26.5‰VPDB) at ES-R and ES-5. The isotope and elemental composition of sedimentary organic matter (δ13CTOC and δ15NTN) indicated the deposition of algae-derived organic matter with limited input from terrestrial organic matter. These results suggest that the microphytobenthos contribution was greater than the inflow of surrounding land vegetation and sediments to the north of the barrier islands had a marine origin. To the south, the effect was considered mixed. Further studies should determine the effects of end-member discrimination on the origins of the organic matter, such as the advance signature proxy. It is necessary to continue measuring sediments and water in the brackish water zone around the barrier system with on-site monitoring of dam discharge, tidal currents, waves, and, etc.
Kang, T.; Oh, J.H.; Hong, J.-S., and Kim, D., 2018. Response of intertidal meiofaunal communities to heavy metal contamination in laboratory microcosm experiments. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 361–365. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The purpose of the this study was to investigate the effects of the heavy metals copper and zinc on the density of meiofauna, dominant taxa and the composition of nematode communities using microcosm experiments. The sediments were treated with different heavy metal concentrations. All experiments were terminated after 30 days. The meiofaunal composition was dominated by harpacticoids. After 10 days of experiment, the density of total meiofauna in the control microcosm changed only slightly. However, the density in most microcosms treated with heavy metals gradually decreased until the end of the experiment. A significant decline in meiofaunal and harpacticoid density was observed in the CuM and CuH microcosms (one way analysis of variance, p < 0.05). The density fluctuations of harpacticoids were similar to those of total meiofauna. The nematode densities in the control and treatment microcosms generally decreased throughout the experiment; however, there was no significant difference between these values before and after the addition of Cu and Zn.
Herkül, K.; Aps, R.; Lokko, K.; Peterson, A., and Tõnisson, H., 2018. Relating Coastal Geomorphology to Marine Benthic Biodiversity. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 366–370. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal geomorphology determines the essential environmental characteristics, such as substrate type and stability, terrestrial water regime and underwater hydrodynamics, that form the basic abiotic settings for the biota. While the importance of coastal geomorphology in determining the patterns of biological communities is relatively well studied on the terrestrial side of the shoreline, the respective relationships have been rarely studied seaward from the shoreline. Therefore, we aimed to fill this research gap by relating coastal geomorphology to marine benthic biodiversity. We studied the variability of species richness of macroscopic seabed fauna and flora along different shore geomorphic types in the Gulf of Finland, Baltic Sea. The shore was classified into nine geomorphological types. Spatial buffers of sizes 125–1000 m (hereafter “scales”) were formed around each segment of shoreline and mean values of faunal, floral, and total species richness were calculated in each segment and scale. ANOVA revealed that biodiversity significantly differed between the shore types. Generally, the biodiversity was the highest among the types “Scraps and steep slopes in sand”, “Exposed rocky cliffs with boulder talus base” and “Sheltered rocky rubble shores” and the lowest among the type “Exposed, solid man-made structures”. Smaller spatial scales hosted higher biodiversity but the interaction between shore type and scale was not statistically significant. To conclude, the coastal geomorphology reflects the general patterns of underwater biodiversity, and thus, the information of shore geomorphic types can be used in coastal management and oil pollution combating prioritization in the case when the information of underwater biota is not available.
Jo, N.; Kang, J.J.; Park, W.G.; Lee, B.R.; Lee, J.H.; Kim, Y.; Ahn, S.H.; Lee, D.; Min, J.-O.; Kang, C.-K., and Lee, S.H., 2018. Carbohydrate-dominant phytoplankton and protein-high zooplankton in the northern part of the southwestern East/Japan Sea in 2015. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 371–375. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The biochemical compositions of phytoplankton and zooplankton were monthly investigated in the northern part of the southwestern East/Japan Sea from May to October in 2015 except August. Among the biochemical compositions of phytoplankton, carbohydrate composition (55.5 ± 7.3%) was most dominant during the study period. A significant negative relationship (r = −0.855, p < 0.01, n = 39) was found between the carbohydrate and lipid compositions of phytoplankton in this study, which can be due to a switch from carbohydrate into lipid synthesis under persistent stress conditions. In comparison, proteins were the predominant components (56.1 ± 5.6%) of the zooplankton communities. These high protein contents could be resulted from dominant crustacean zooplankton because copepods have generally high protein contents. Indeed, a positive correlation was found between community composition of copepods and protein composition of zooplankton communities (r = 0.618, p < 0.05, n = 13). In contrast, a lipid content of zooplankton in the northern region (7.3 ± 1.6% DW) was significantly (t-test, p < 0.05) higher than that reported from the southern region (5.5 ± 0.6% DW). This might be due to a higher contribution of cold water species which have generally high lipid contents or/and a low amount of prey in this region. In conclusion, a high protein and relatively lower lipid contents of copepods-dominant zooplankton communities appeared to be regional characteristics in the southwestern East/Japan Sea, which could be a good food source for fish larvae and small fish which have generally high protein requirements.
Peterson, A.; Herkül, K., and Torn, K., 2018. Modeling Coastal Benthic Biodiversity Using Georeferenced Environmental Data: Mapping Present and Predicting Future Changes. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 376–380. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Biodiversity is critical for maintaining and stabilizing ecosystem processes. There is a need for high resolution biodiversity maps that cover large sea areas in order to address ecological questions related to biodiversity-ecosystem functioning relationships and to provide data for marine environmental protection and management decisions. Climate change can significantly impact patterns of biodiversity with substantial implications for ecosystem functioning and human use of marine biological resources. The Baltic Sea is expected to face serious environmental changes due to climate change during the 21st century mainly manifested as changes in salinity and temperature. Thus, it is important to map the biodiversity now and predict the potential future changes. Boosted regression trees (BRT) modeling method was used to produce maps of benthic biodiversity in the northern Baltic Sea. Environmental layers (such as depth, salinity and temperature) were used as independent variables in the models to predict the spatial distribution of species richness. For future predictions, we had climate scenario-based layers for salinity and temperature. BRT modeling proved to have high predictive ability. Based on the models, depth was the most important environmental variable influencing benthic biodiversity. Future biodiversity was predicted to significantly decrease both in terms of numerical values of species richness and spatial coverage (highly diverse area becoming narrower along coastline) compared to nowadays conditions. Our study showed that predictive modeling of biodiversity patterns can give valuable insights into potential future changes.
Ryu, J.; Bianchette, T.A.; Liu, K.-B.; Yao, Q., and Maiti, K.D., 2018. Palynological and Geochemical Records of Environmental Changes in a Taxodium Swamp near Lake Pontchartrain in Southern Louisiana (USA) during the Last 150 Years. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 381–385. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The hydrological and environmental histories of estuarine wetlands in southern Louisiana are not well-documented. To better understand their local developmental processes, a 59 cm sediment core (WMA-1) was extracted from a bald cypress (Taxodium distichum) swamp located approximately 800 m west of Lake Pontchartrain. This area has been heavily influenced by human activities, and is susceptible to inundation from storm surges from Lake Pontchartrain as well as fluvial and lacustrine processes. 210Pb analysis indicates that WMA-1 has a sedimentation rate of 0.39 cm/year, consistent with the detection of a 137Cs peak at 18 cm depth. Sedimentological and geochemical analyses reveal two distinct sedimentological facies: an organic-rich dark brown peat unit from 0 to 29 cm containing low concentrations of terrestrial elements (e.g., Ti, and Fe), and a clay unit from 29 to 59 cm with elevated concentrations of most elements (e.g., Sr, Cl, Ti, Mn, and Fe). The pollen assemblage in the clay section is dominated by TCT (mainly Taxodium), but it is replaced by Salix and wetland herbaceous taxa in the overlying peat. The Taxodium swamp was present at the site at least 150 years ago, and was replaced by Salix and other bottomland hardwood trees and wetland herbs due to a decrease in water level around AD 1940. While climate may have played a role, this hydrological change was most likely caused by the significant regional human activities during the last 100 years. Two thin clay layers (at 3–5 cm, 14–19 cm) embedded in the upper peat section were likely deposited from hurricanes Isaac (2012) and Betsy (1969): two events responsible for heavy rain and significant storm-surge flooding. Our findings suggest that human activities are capable of altering local wetland hydrology and ecology, while the clay layers represent hurricane-induced floods at the site during the past century.
Oh, Y.; Sohn, H.; Lee, D.; An, Y.-R.; Kang, C.-K.; Kang, M.G., and Lee, S.H., 2018. Feeding patterns of ‘Finless porpoise (Neophocaena asiaeorientalis)’ in the yellow sea as indicated by stable carbon and nitrogen ratios. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 386–390. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Finless porpoise (Neophocaena asiaeorientalis) is a representative marine mammal that has the largest habitat near the Korean coastal area. However, little information on their trophic ecology has been reported in Korea to date. The stable carbon and nitrogen isotope ratios from muscle samples (n = 60) were analyzed for their trophic ecology. The muscle tissues from the stranded or by caught porpoises in the Yellow Sea were obtained in 2015 (n = 37) and 2016 (n = 23) by Cetacean Research Institute in Korea. The averages of δ13C and δ15N for all the samples were −17.74 ‰ (S.D. = ±0.74 ‰) and 12.96 ‰ (S.D. = ±0.95 ‰), respectively. The mean isotopic values of the porpoise groups obtained from different seasons were −18.13 ‰ (±0.56 ‰) and 12.43 ‰ (±0.73 ‰) and −17.06 ‰ (±0.46 ‰) and 13.87 ‰ (±0.46 ‰) for summer (n = 38) and spring (n = 22), respectively, which were significantly different among the two seasons (t-test; p < 0.01, n = 60, respectively). These increasing isotope values from summer to spring reflected a shift in major prey sources. The small increasing in δ15N values could be caused partly by different body lengths of the porpoises. However, the most plausible reason for the large shift in δ13C value relative to δ15N could be a change from pelagic to benthic prey in the different seasons since benthic diets are reported for enriched δ13C over the pelagic diets. For better understanding, further validation should be conducted.
Miura, H.; Ito, Y., and Suenaga, Y., 2018. Construction of Climate Change-Adapted Seaweed Beds on the Japanese Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 391–395. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Japanese coastal seaweed beds are experiencing a long-term decline in area coverage in a phenomenon called isoyake, which has massively impacted the fisheries industry. Therefore, research has been performed on seaweed bed restoration. Consequent measures have been implemented along with the promulgation of relevant technology. Meanwhile, increasing seawater temperatures and other environmental changes associated with climate change, which is one of the causes of isoyake, are spreading globally and have become increasingly severe in recent years. With respect to methods of coping with the effects of climate change, the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change's Fifth Assessment Report (2014) calls for “adaptation” to effects that have already occurred and unavoidable medium- and long-term effects. In this context, this paper discusses the present state of and future forecasts for seaweed beds on the Japanese coast, and it then considers the future trends of climate change-adapted seaweed bed construction.
Kim, H.-C.; Song, Y.-S.; Kim, Y.H.; Son, S.; Cho, J.-G.; Chang, W.K.; Lee, C.-H.; Nam, J., and Ryu, J., 2018. Implications of esuarine and coastal management in the growth of Porphyra sp. in the Geum River Estuary, South Korea: A modeling study. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 396–400. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Laver (Porphyra sp.) is one of macroalgae species that has been cultivated for the purpose of food consumption in the coastal areas of Korean Peninsula. In specific, Porphyra tenera Kjellman and Porphyra yezonensis Ueda are two major commercial species for aquaculture in the west coast of Korea. In this study authors employed an ecosystem modeling approach (Hadley et al., 2014) to simulate the nutrient physiology and growth of the laver in aquaculture facilities located in the vicinities of Geum River Estuary. Some of model coefficients and parameterizations were modified from the original version based on laboratory experiments, if necessary. In addition, authors calibrated and validated the Delft3D ( https://oss.deltares.nl/web/delft3d) with long-term time series data from the area. The Delft3D is an open source modeling suite that can simulate hydrodynamics (temperature, salinity, flow fields), sediment transport and water quality variables (inorganic nutrients). As one of the end-point goals of the present study is to develop decision supporting tools that can be used by coastal managers, the macroalgae growth model was coupled with the Delft3D in order to predict effects of episodic climatic events and/or upstream water management decisions on the estuarine ecosystem. Temperature, salinity and nitrogen loadings estimated from the Delft3D were used as input to the ecosystem model, and subsequent responses from Porphyra sp. were numerically simulated. Given thirteen scenario-based simulations, it is found that model simulated dissolved inorganic nitrogen concentrations do not change significantly for the same climatic condition. However, the maximum potential annual production of macroalgae is found to be more dependent on ammonium ion concentration.
Min, W.-G.; Kwon, K.-G.; Rho, H.S., and Kim, D., 2018. The Community Structure and Grazing Rates of Meiobenthos in Chunsu Bay, West Coast of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 401–405. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The community structure and grazing rates of meiobenthos was studied in Chunsu bay on west coast of Korea. To examine feeding habit of major meiofaunal groups, grazing rate of nematodes and harpacticoid copepods was measured using the isotope-tracer (3H thymidine, 14C amino acid) method at 3 stations in subtidal area and 1 station in intertidal area of Chunsu bay. Time-serial measurement of grazing rate was made to elucidate the effects of day/night and tidal cycle on diel feeding rhythm of the animals. The number of culturable bacteria fluctuated from 1.73±0.25×105 to 18.23±1.17×105 CFU/cm3 during the study period, and was highest in October. The Concentration of Chl.a in the sediment at the study site was 18.0~168.2 mg/m2 in April and 36.6~111.0 mg/m2 in October. The most abundant meiobenthos was nematodes and followed by sarcomastigophorans, harpacticoid copepods. Density of meiobenthos were 5~1632 inds./10cm2 during the study period. The grazing rates of nematode varied 0.5~57.2%/h on bacteria and 0.4~53.3%/h on microalgae at the station in tidal flat. The grazing rates of harpacticoid copepods were 0.2~14.2%/h on bacteria and 0.3~12.2%/h on benthic microalgae at the station in tidal flat. In the subtidal area, the grazing rates of nematode were 33.4~82.5%/h on bacteria and 10.3~71.5%/h on microalgae and harpacticoid copepods were 0.2~14.2%/h on bacteria and 0.3~12.2%/h on benthic microalgae.
Billy, J.; Robin, N.; Hein, C.; FitzGerald, D., and Certain, R., 2018. Dominance of inherited geologic framework on the development of coastal barrier system. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 406–410. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Many coastal systems are influenced by geologic framework (e.g., bedrock or inherited sedimentary systems), either in their initial development, morphology, or continuously throughout their evolution. This study adds to our understanding of the role of bedrock inheritance by describing the evolution of the Miquelon-Langlade Barrier (NW Atlantic; France). This barrier has a complex coastal planform (Y-shape, 12-km-long, 100–2500-m-wide) with several embedded sedimentary landforms. Ground-penetrating radar and HR seismic data collected along the subaerial and subaqueous portions of the barrier reveal: (i) the bedrock architecture (largely buried by Holocene deposits) and (ii) the presence of specific inherited sedimentary units. Indeed, both the location and early development of the barrier are largely controlled by bedrock morphology; the barrier is perched on a buried bedrock high in its center, and pinned to subaerial bedrock exposures at its northern and southern ends. Moreover, unconsolidated sedimentary shoals, formed and modified by waves and tides during earlier stages of rapid sea-level rise, provided important morphological constrains that influenced barrier development and the resulting complex morphology of the barrier and associated beach-ridge plain. This study demonstrates the utility of using coupled terrestrial and marine geophysical data to map geologic framework units, thereby determining the role of inherited geology in the evolution of coastal systems.
Sim B.-R.; Kim H.C.; Kim C.-S.; Hwang D.-W.; Park J.-H.; Cho Y.-S.; Hong S., and Lee W.-C., 2018. Spatio-temporal changes of sediment environment in the Taehwa river estuary, Ulsan of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 41–45. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Taehwa River is a successful case for restoration of ecological system in Korea through the restoration project conducted during 1995–2005. To sustain this restored ecosystem, seasonal surveys for surface sediment quality were conducted in the entire area of the river estuary during the year 2012. It is noteworthy that the areas with pollutant source inflow exhibited higher organic carbon and acid volatile sulphide concentrations than the pollutant standard indices (20 mg C·g−1 and 0.2 mg S·g−1) in the spring and summer. Trace metal concentrations (As: 13.2; Cu: 64.2; Zn: 185.7; and Pb: 48.3; mg·kg−1) also showed a considerable increment from their respective Effect Range Low standards. The observed sediment oxygen demand (avg. 41.13 mmol O2m−2·d−1) in the prime habitat of Ruditapes philippinarum was substantially higher in this study than the average value (16 ± 6 mmol O2m−2·d−1) in Southern coastal area of Korea. The results from materials flux study suggest that high phosphate release from sediment into water column in summer and low sedimentation rate of nitrogenous nutrients during fall season could influence prolonging algal blooms in the Taehwa estuary. A further study is needed for a long-term of sediment monitoring on environment quality changes to maintain the restored ecological system and a safe consume of seafood.
Garlan, T.; Mathias, X.; Brenon E.; Favretto-Cristini, N.; Deschamps, A.; Beucler, E., Guyomard P., and Morio, O., 2018. Circular sedimentary figures of anthropic origin in a sediment stability context. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 411–415. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The French POSA project studies the seismic energy released by bomb and mine blasting. This project is based on seismological and acoustical measurements recording during blasting actions in order to study seismic wave propagation nucleated by controlled sources (location and explosive energy). These measurements are compared to numerical modeling of the acoustic and seismic wave propagation based on the most faithful 3D representation of the seabed sediments and underlying rocks. This project first focused on the 3D environment representation based on specific surveys and on two blasting experiments which consist in exploding bombs of different loads at two distinct environmental places. The in-situ measurements reveal several hundred circular figures with very specific characteristics which clearly differentiate them from other sedimentary, biological and geological figures encountered on the seabed. They are found within the whole studied area and their diameter is from 10 to 130 m. About 30 circles by kilometer square are observed without correlation with the depth which varies from 10 to 150m. These sedimentary structures indicate that they have been generated by the explosion of bombs, but at different periods. The oldest ones most probably result from bombs dropped in 1940 and 1944 during the landing of the Allied forces in the region of Toulon. These original anthropic sedimentary figures and their differences compared with other circular structures observed on the seabed are described.
Ha, H.J.; Choi, S.M.; Seo, J.Y., and Ha, H.K., 2018. Erodibility of sand-mud mixed sediment on the Yeochari tidal flat, Gyeonggi Bay, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 416–420. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Yeochari tidal flat is located along the southwestern part of Ganghwa Island in Gyeonggi Bay. The aim of this study is to quantitatively evaluate the erodibility of sediment on the tidal flat. Sediment samples were obtained from two typical sites (mud and mixed flats) in April and June, 2017, and then their erodibilities were estimated by a Gust erosion microcosm system. Erodibility at the two sites was different in April and June. In April (late spring), the total eroded mass of mud flat was 0.023 kg m−2 with clay content of higher than 10%, whereas total eroded masses of mixed flat were 0.027 to 0.029 kg m−2 with clay content of lower than 5%. Thus, the sediment erodibility in mud flat was lower than that in mixed flat during April due to clay content. As the clay content increases, non-cohesive sediments were likely surrounded by cohesive sediments. This induced to enhance the inter-particle bonding and decrease the erodibility. In June (early summer), although the clay content was less than 5%, the mixed flat had the low erodibility (total eroded mass of 0.004 kg m−2), which was about 7 times lower than that in April. The low erodibility in June might be caused by the enhanced armoring effect with increased grain size.
Chen, X.D.; Wang, J.; Zhang C.K.; Yu S.B.; Zhou J.J.; Zhang N.Y., and Feng, Q., 2018. Biological mediation of sediment erosion: Can we account for tidal effects?. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 421–425. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Sedimentology and geomorphology have no longer been seen as fields where only physical and chemical processes dominate. Changes in shear stress due to tidal effects may lead to repeated cycles of biofilm growth, erosion, and regrowth that produce conditions different from the steady-state ones often examined in the laboratory. Therefore, repeated cycles of laboratory-controlled experiments were conducted. Algal biofilm was initially developed on the sediment bed under low shear stress (0.06 Pa). After the biofilm reached a quasi-steady state (12 days of cultivation), the bio-bed was eroded with stepwise increment of shear forces, and then allowed to re-grow for only 5 days before being eroded again. The first cycle aimed to test whether the biological cohesion could recover during a relatively short calm period. After then, it was followed by six consecutive times of repeated procedure of 5-days-growth, erosion and regrowth (two under limited nutrients and four under rich nutrients), to investigate the responses of bio-beds under frequent disturbances and different nutrients abundance. The data showed that for the first cycle, the strength of the bio-bed surprisingly restored to the similar level of the bio-bed incubated for 12 days, within a relatively short recovery period of only 5 days after the disturbance. However, with nutrients limitation, the anti-erodibility declined dramatically that after two cycles, the bed stability rapidly reverted back to the non-cohesive condition. After four cycles under high nutrients, the biological cohesion rebuilt gradually but was hard to reach to the original strength. Different from the traditional assumption, our results indicate that in intertidal zones frequent disturbances cannot entirely inhibit the establishment of bio-sediment, and the biological mediation in sediment stability still occurs without nutrients limitation.
Choi, T.-J.; Choi, J.-Y.; Park, J.-Y.; Um, H.-Y., and Choi, J.-H., 2018. The Effects of Nourishments Using the Grain-Size Trend Analysis on the Intertidal Zone at a Sandy Macrotidal Beach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 426–430. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Byeonsan Beach is a typical macrotidal beach located at the west coast of Korea, which has been eroded continuously over the past decade since the construction of Saemangeum Dike. Starting from 2011, beach nourishment has been conducted annually on the Beach, with about 8 × 103 m3 of well sorted medium sands over the intertidal flat area. Primary purposes of this study are to understand the pattern of sediment transport using the grain-size trend analysis (GSTA) proposed by Gao and Collins (1992), and to evaluate the effect of nourishment procedures. Because of the monsoonal climate, nourishments were carried out just before the rainy summer season between late May and early Jun. 120 surficial-sediment samples were carefully collected each time in March before nourishment and also in September about 3-month after nourishment. The results of sediment grain-size analysis showed the equilibrium status of transport pattern in the previous winter season and during summer after nourishment, respectively. Beach morphology was also made monthly by using RTK-GPS system. The result showed that most of the nourished sands remained within the intertidal zone of the beach, and thus the nourishment procedures conducted on Byeonsan Beach were considered as successful. Nourishment sediments were transported predominantly landward direction, resulting in 20-cm increase in mean elevation along the upper sand beach. Subsequent amounts of nourished sand were considered to be transported seaward direction showing different transport patterns between 2013 and 2014, especially at the northern and southern parts of the beach. Local factors influencing the transport pattern were the amount of rainfalls and the resulting freshwater discharge from sluice gates, and the climatic conditions such as typhoon events in summer and strong northwesterly winds during winter.
S.B. Sujitha; M.P. Jonathan; D.C. Escobedo-Urias; Fernando Aguirre-Bahena; S.K. Sarkar; Lorena Elizabeth Campos Villegas, and E. González Gomez., 2018. Fate of dissolved trace metals in the waters of Bahia Magdalena lagoon, Baja California Sur, Mexico. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 431–435. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Concentrations of dissolved trace metals (Fe, Mn, Cr, Cu, Ni, Co, Zn, Cd, As) were determined in forty-one surface and forty bottom water samples procured from Bahia Magdalena lagoon, Baja California Sur, Mexico using an Atomic Absorption Spectrophotometry. In-situ measurements of temperature, salinity, dissolved oxygen and pH were also carried out in each station and high salinities classified the lagoon as Eurihaline. The region witness raised temperatures (avg. 28.92°C) due to their location in an arid setting with less precipitation (< 14mm) and high evaporation rates. The pH values ranged from 7.52 – 8.56 indicating an alkaline environment. Cadmium and Zinc presented nutrient like distributions whereas Fe, Mn, Co, Cu, Cr, Ni showed scavenged type of profiles. The high values of Ni (surface: 0.246 mg/L; bottom: 0.138 mg/L), As (surface: 0.224 mg/L; bottom: 0.228 mg/L), Co (surface: 0.125 mg/L; bottom: 0.122 mg/L) and Cd (surface: 0.018 mg/L; bottom: 0.016 mg/L) are due to the local influences such as the ophiolitic outcrops, upwelling process, hydrothermal fluids and submarine phosphatic deposits. Less concentrations of Fe in the surface 0.011 mg/L and bottom waters (0.007 mg/L) are attributed to the formation of insoluble Fe oxides and hydroxides in oxygenated waters. Moreover, the fate of metals is also determined by the plankton distributions present in the lagoon which release strong chelators that influence the bioavailability of trace metals. However, the levels of Ni and As were observed to be hundred fold higher than the recommended values (Ni: 0.002 mg/L, As: 0.0002 mg/L) set by the Mexican government posing severe threat to the biota. This study gives distinct evidence of the distribution of dissolved trace metals against which long term contamination status may be evaluated.
Kennedy, D.M.; Vann Jones, E.C.; Dickson, M.E., and Rosser, N.J., 2018. Wind waves and cliff shaking on macrotidal shore platforms: A case-study from North Yorkshire, U.K. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 436–440. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Wind waves are a major erosive agent on the rocky coast. The physical impact of waves is also important in driving erosion above the splash zone. This occurs through the transferral of energy into the bedrock by the action of wave breaking causing microseismic shaking. In this study we concurrently measure wave energy and resultant microseismic shaking on a macrotidal shore platform at Staithes, North Yorkshire, U.K. It is found that infragravity wave generation is limited when compared to microtidal coasts and where it does occur it is confined to the wave breaking zone. Cliff shaking is broadly correlated to wave energy and strongly linked to tidal stage. The highest energy bands of microseisms were recorded at > 10 Hz, which contrasts to the gravity-frequency bands recorded for wind waves on the platform. It is likely that surf zone processes on the platform are more predictive of seismic shaking than absolute wave energy offshore under the low energy conditions that this field experiment was conducted.
Lee, W.D.; Yoo, Y.J.; Jeong, Y.M.; Jeong, Y.H., and Hur, D.S., 2018. Experimental Investigation of the Effects of Revetments on Seawater Intrusion in Coastal Aquifers. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 441–445. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Sea level rise due to global warming and the decline in groundwater levels due to the misuse of groundwater resources can decrease the seawater and groundwater pressure gradient, which can, in turn, increase seawater intrusion into coastal aquifers. Many researchers have conducted theoretical, experimental, and numerical analyses on the effects of changes in seawater and groundwater levels on coastal aquifers. In this study, modeling experiments were conducted in a sandy tank to analyze revetment and underground obstacles that influence seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers. We focused on areas that have not been examined by current research. We confirmed that as the gradient of the seawater level to groundwater level increased, seawater intrusion weakened, because the difference between the seawater and groundwater levels increased as the salinity difference between the seawater and freshwater decreased. Following the installation of a revetment in the experimental coastal aquifer, the groundwater level behind it increased. Due to a decrease in the cross-sectional area, a special seawater–freshwater interface formed. We found that the seawater–groundwater pressure gradient increased due to the revetment, the flow to the sea increased, and the seawater–freshwater boundary moved in the direction of the sea in the experimental tank. This study suggests that if revetment and similar underground obstacles are arranged appropriately, the groundwater level and groundwater flow can be changed, and seawater intrusion in coastal aquifers can be reduced. In the future, results from this experiment could be used by numerical models as verification data for the seawater–freshwater interface and the seawater intrusion distance.
Barboza, E.G.; Rosa, M.L.C.C.; Dillenburg, S.R.; Watanabe, D.S.Z.; Esteves, T.; Martins, E.M., and Gruber, N.L.S., 2018. Diachronic Condition Between Maximum Transgressive and Maximum Eustatic Sea-Level in Holocene: Subsidies for Coastal Management. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 446–450. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The coastline of Pelotas Basin/Brazil displays alternate sectors showing long-term conditions of erosion and accretion during the Holocene, corresponding to retrogradational/transgressive and progradational/regressive barriers respectively. Currently, the retrogradational/transgressive sectors are suffering from problems related to coastal erosion, generating problems for the public and private sectors. Thus, it is important to understand if coastal sectors suffer long-term erosion. The transition between a retrogradational/transgressive and a progradational/regressive barrier is still not well known, and this is the reason why some GPR (Ground Penetrating Radar) profiles and a drilling were performed in the transition region between the two basic types of barriers that occur at São José do Norte/RS/Brazil. Six radarfacies of aeolian, lagoon and backshore/foreshore, upper/lower shoreface deposits were identified, and, also, the subsurface transition, between a transgressive phase and a regressive phase of the barrier was identified. In the transition, reflectors of a paleochannel and a delta system were interpreted as corresponding to active channel systems during the last glaciation, which was then partially reworked during the final stages of the postglacial marine transgression. The barrier at São José do Norte changed from retrogradational/transgressive to a progradational/regressive phase before the maximum eustatic sea-level which occurred at about 5.6 ka, defining a diachronic condition of the maximum transgression identified in the GPR record and dated by 14C at 6,652 – 6,424 yr cal BP. Based on these results, the area is considered to have a long-term progradational behavior. The identification of deposits with conditions of erosion and accretion in the subsurface gives important information to the understanding of the coastal evolution of Pelotas Basin and contributing to coastal management by identifying the long-term behavior of this sector.
Ha, H.K.; Seo, J.Y.; Jung, Y.H.; Ha. H.J.; Kim, S.B.; Kang, J.W.; Kim, Y.H., and Ryu, J., 2018. Dynamics of sediment resuspension in the inner harbor under different forcing conditions: A case study of Ulsan, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 451–455. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Bottom mooring data of currents and backscatter strength derived from a 1200-kHz acoustic Doppler current profiler were collected in the inner Onsan Harbor, Ulsan during the summer season (July 5 to August 5, 2016). The mean volume backscattering strength (MVBS), which is a proxy of suspended sediment concentration (SSC), continued to exhibit distinct signatures of sediment erosion (or resuspension) under different forcing conditions such as tides, winds, and precipitation. Results exhibit the different patterns of sediment resuspension between spring and neap tides. During spring tide, the extensive tidal forcing provided a favorable condition to resuspend sediments trapped near the bed. The MVBS with high SSC was consistently recorded. During neap tide, on the other hand, the MVBS with high SSC was intermittently recorded, which was related to the strong wind events. While the flow was being intensified by winds, the short-lasting (2–4 hours) sharp spikes of MVBS were observed. The stratification developed by increased precipitation might cause to block the upward transport of sediments near the bed, even though the strong winds (>13.6 m s−1) lasted over 4 days. These outcomes could give insight into the complexity of hydrodynamics and sediment transport occurring in the harbor where various natural and artificial forcings are combined.
Birchler, J.J.; Harris, C.K.; Kniskern, T.A., and Sherwood, C.R., 2018. Numerical model of geochronological tracers for deposition and reworking applied to the Mississippi subaqueous delta. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 456–460. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Measurements of naturally occurring, short-lived radioisotopes from sediment cores on the Mississippi subaqueous delta have been used to infer event bed characteristics such as depositional thicknesses and accumulation rates. Specifically, the presence of Beryllium-7 (7Be) indicates recent riverine-derived terrestrial sediment deposition; while Thorium-234 (234Th) provides evidence of recent suspension in marine waters. Sediment transport models typically represent coastal flood and storm deposition via estimated grain size patterns and deposit thicknesses, however, and do not directly calculate radioisotope activities and profiles, which leads to a disconnect between the numerical model and field observations. Here, observed radioisotopic profiles from the Mississippi subaqueous delta cores were directly related to a numerical model that represented resuspension and deposition using a new approach to account for the behavior of short-lived radioisotopes. Appropriate selection of parameters such as the biodiffusion coefficient, sediment accumulation rate, and radioisotopic source terms enabled a good match between the modeled and observed cores. Comparisons of modelled profiles with geochronological analytical models that estimate accumulation rate and flood layer thickness revealed potential avenues for refining these tools, and highlight the importance of constraining the biodiffusion coefficient.
Kim, S.; Lee, H.; Jun, K., and Jun, B.-H., 2018. The monitoring of topography change in the estuary of the Korean east coast using LiDAR. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 46–50. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Recently, due to abnormal climates caused by climate changes, important shorelines found in the east coast of Korea are facing many topographical changes. Especially within the estuary regions that meet the rivers, complex phenomenon due to artificial causes like topographical and stream character changes are occurring. In this study, GPS with RTK (Real Time Kinematic) application and above ground LiDAR (Light Detection And Ranging) were used to observe and the changing typography by season of Gagok River estuary region located in the east coast of Korea. Also the changes in water discharge from the Gagok River were measured in order to analyze what sort of influence it had on the changing topography of the estuary's beach dunes. Investigations were made on topographical changes that happen such as changes in the width of the beach profile due to the installation of artificial structure on the estuary region. The results indicate that the closing of the estuary occurs depending on the season. Moreover, the variance of the beach dunes' volume was investigated through the LiDAR measurement results.
Oh, S.-H.; Lee, D.S., and Choi, J.W., 2018. Experimental generation of solitary waves by a thin bump traveling on sea bed. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 461–465. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study experimentally investigated characteristics of solitary waves that were generated by a thin bump horizontally traveling at a constant speed on sea bottom. The upper surface of the bump was convex shape having the maximum amplitude of 0.67 cm at its center. The bump was pulled at a varying speed for 7.5 m from the initial position and then abruptly stopped. The corresponding Froude number (Fr) ranged from 1.04, to 1.36. By analyzing the experimental data, three regimes of solitary wave generation were identified solely depending on the traveling speed of the bump, with a threshold value of Fr = 1.22. These results are in general well matched with previous researches on the generation of solitary waves by a pressure disturbance that moves either on the water surface or inside the water.
Kim, H.; Son, Y.B.; Jeong, J.-Y., and Jo, Y.-H., 2018. Comparison of Internal Waves in Various Ocean Fields around the Korean Peninsula. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 466–470. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The sea surrounding the Korean Peninsula is roughly divided into the western part (the Yellow Sea (YS) and the South Sea (SS); shallow inland sea) and the eastern part (the East Sea (ES); drastically deep). While internal wave (IW) studies have been mainly localized because of the complicated environmental conditions around the Korean Peninsula, this study determined the differences of the IWs in various ocean fields for over three years (2013–2015). First, satellite measurements with high spatial and temporal resolutions from Landsat 8 and the Geostationary Ocean Color Imager (GOCI) were used. The curvature analysis was used to define and compare the shapes of the objective factors of the IWs, such as sizes, ovalities, and maximum wavelengths. In the YS, IWs appeared at a densely spaced interval compared with the ES and the maximum wavelength of the packet was nonlinearly increased with depth, and that of the YS (1.1 km) was about 10 times larger than and ES (10.6 km). In addition, the standard deviations of the wavelengths in a packet, which can determine the irregularity of the within-packet spacings from front to rear; were 0.2 and 1.4 for the YS and ES, respectively. Second, the ocean temperature and salinity data from HYCOM and Korteweg-de Vries equation were used to calculate the theoretical phase speed of IWs. Typically, the IW phase speed increased nonlinearly with the water depth; and the mean value was approximately 0.1–0.7 m/s and 0.9–1.7 m/s for the YS and ES, respectively.
Shin, C.-W.; Kim, D.G., and Jang, C.J., 2018. Seasonal variations and long-term trends of the coastal upwelling along the southwestern coast of the East Sea/Japan Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 471–475. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Southwesterly winds cause coastal upwelling along the southwestern coast of the East Sea/Japan Sea (EJS) in summer. To investigate the seasonal variations and long-term trends in the coastal upwelling, the observations of the Sea Surface Temperature (SST) at Gampo and the wind at Busan from 1968 to 2012 were analyzed. Upwelling signals estimated by temperature anomalies were negatively correlated (r ≈ −0.6) with southwesterly winds in summer. In addition, the signals were closely related to the Net Primary Production (NPP) near the upwelling region in late spring to early summer, which was the reason for the summer NPP peak in this area. The upwelling index driven by the wind shows that the upwelling would occur from April to August with a maximum strength in July. The long-term upwelling trends differed considerably according to the season: they increased in spring and decreased in summer, but the interannual variability in summer reduced the statistical confidence of the trends.
Seo, S.; Park, Y.-G.; Jeon, C.; Min, H. S.; Kim, D. G., and Park, J.-H., 2018. Turbulent mixing induced by cold water intrusion over the southwestern East Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 476–480. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Along the southeastern coast of Korea the warm and salty Tsushima Warm Currents flows northeastward. During summer a southwestward cold water intrusion from the East Sea occurs along the bottom below the warm current. Thus, a strong shear and consequently strong turbulent mixing are expected along the boundary between the warm water and cold water. To quantify the mixing hydrographic surveys using a free falling microstructure profiler (VMP-500) were conducted. Enhanced dissipation of energy was indeed observed along the interface located between 15°C to 20°C layers. Along the bottom there was another layer with enhanced energy dissipation. These high energy dissipations resulted in high vertical diffusivities. The layers of high vertical mixing slanted upward toward the coast could supply nutrient to the surface layer to support high productivity along the Korean coast.
Delpeche-Ellmann, N. and Soomere, T., 2018. Possible Presence of Shear Instabilities at Steep Slopes during an Upwelling Event in the Gulf of Finland, Baltic Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 481–485. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The cooler water jets that are present during wind-induced coastal upwellings are known to become unstable after some time and develop into sub-mesoscale phenomena that contribute to the overall mixing. In this study we examine the possibility of vertical shear instabilities, in particular the Kelvin–Helmholtz instability existing in an area where steep bottom slopes are present during an upwelling event in the Gulf of Finland, Baltic Sea. The study utilizes a combination of in-situ sampling stations, satellite derived sea surface temperature (SST) data and the HIROMB model for the Baltic Sea. Examination of the velocity shear and stratification shows that it is possible for the KHI instabilities to exist most popularly at the thalweg section of the study area at a depth of 10–16 m. It is also at this exact location that the cross-shore jets were found to develop into meanders and filaments and the greatest gradient in the SST were observed. Thus these observations signal the possibility of the KHI developing in the vicinity of steep slopes and contributing to the overall mixing.
Chae, J.-Y.; Jeon, C.; Park, S.J.; Choi, Y., and Park, J.-H., 2018. Behavior of diurnal internal waves in the southern East/Japan Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 486–490. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The diurnal internal waves cannot freely propagate and are trapped near their generation site in the East/Japan Sea due to its sub-inertial environment. Previous studies show that diurnal internal shelf waves (ISWs) are generated around the southern Ulleung Basin (UB) with their energy concentrated there. To investigate the spatio-temporal variation of diurnal ISWs, we use a high-resolution numerical ocean model that is forced by realistic 16 tidal constituents and involves a data assimilation scheme. The baroclinic total energy and the conversion rate of barotropic to baroclinic energy show higher values at the southern side of the UB, showing features of ISWs by dominant eastward energy flux and bottom trapped current mode. The regionally-integrated conversion rate and total energy in the vicinity of the generation site fluctuate at about 6-month period. Changes in the stratification and barotropic forcing are examined to understand the semi-annual variation in the ISW field. A parameter showing the relative impact of stratification and water column stretching reveals that the latter predominates both the ISWs generation and horizontal distribution. The diurnal tidal transport change reveals a consistent variation with the conversion rate, supporting that the changes in the barotropic forcing in the Korea Strait can induce semi-annual variation of diurnal ISWs over the southern UB.
Tuck, M.E.; Ford, M.R.; Masselink, G., and Kench, P.S., 2018. Physical Modelling of Reef Platform Hydrodynamics. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 491–495. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Low-lying coral reef islands are considered extremely vulnerable to the implications of climate change, particularly sea level rise. Over the last decade numerical modelling has been the primary method used to predict the future state of coral reef islands in response to rising sea level. However, disregarding complex island morphodynamics, numerical models treat islands as geomorphically inert landforms despite evidence showing islands fluctuate in size, shape and position on the reef flat across a range of timescales. In order to improve our understanding and incorporate reef island morphodynamics into predictive models, a physical modelling methodology is applied to a motu, a gravel island generally located on the windward side of coral reef atolls. Physical modelling experiments took place in the Coastal Basin at the COAST laboratory, Plymouth University, UK. A 1:50 scale reef platform was constructed based on the morphology of the reef platform on the windward side of Funafuti atoll, Tuvalu. Wave processes on the reef platform have a strong influence on island geomorphology and therefore accurate replication of the hydrodynamic processes are a crucial aspect of successfully physically modelling island morphodynamics. This paper details the reef platform hydrodynamics observed during 18 experiments where wave height, wave period and water level were varied. Results highlight the successful application of physical modelling to reproduce field observations of reef platform hydrodynamics in the flume, demonstrating the accuracy of the scaled physical modelling experiments.
Collin, A.; Duvat, V.; Pillet, V.; Salvat, B., and James, D., 2018. Understanding Interactions between Shoreline Changes and Reef Outer Slope Morphometry on Takapoto Atoll (French Polynesia). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 496–500. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Low-lying atoll reef islands host populations who are highly exposed to increasing ocean-related pressures resulting from accelerated sea-level rise, ocean warming and acidification. Since 2010, changes in the position of atoll reef island shoreline were estimated on more than 400 Pacific islands using multi-date image analysis. These studies have emphasized island persistence and highlighted the major role of local controls, i.e., human activities and tropical cyclones, in shoreline change. However, they provide limited knowledge on the ecological-morphological linkages driving island change. In order to contribute filling this gap, will be studied the statistical relationships between multi-decadal shoreline change and high-resolution outer slope morphometry of the eastern windward coast of Takapoto Atoll (Tuamotu Archipelago, French Polynesia). Shoreline change was estimated using 1969 airborne and 2013 spaceborne imagery, while outer slope morphometry was mapped at 2 m spatial resolution using 2016 spaceborne imagery. Nine classes of shoreline changes (N=1 402), ranging from >50 m accretion to >50 m erosion, were compared with averages of depth and slope metrics, derived from satellite-based bathymetry mapping. A strong positive correlation between shoreline erosion versus (i) depth and (ii) slope averages was obtained (R2=0.93 and R2=0.96, respectively): the deeper/steeper outer transects are, the more eroded shoreline transects are. Those findings suitably match the theory of wave propagation in shallow/gentle waters describing an increase in cross-shore sediment transfer with shallowness, thus explaining spatial variations in shoreline response. The implications of those original results for reef islands' future under climate change will be discussed.
Shi, J.; Zhang, C.; Zheng, J.; Tong, C.; Wang, P., and Chen, S., 2018. Modelling Wave Breaking across Coral Reefs Using a Non-Hydrostatic Model. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 501–505. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Wave breaking is the main mechanism to drive flow across shallow reef flats. The breaking process is more complex than on continental shelves due to the extreme geometries. This paper describes a non-hydrostatic model with shock-capturing capability to simulate the wave breaking process over two reef profiles. The two cases with and without ridge at the edge of reef crest are simulated, and the results are compared with data measured from laboratory experiment. The results show that the model can predict the surface elevation and mean sea level with good accuracy. The existence of a ridge can narrow the width of surfzone and increase wave-induced setup of sea level. The turbulent intensity and energy dissipation rate during wave breaking in the two reef profiles are analyzed. The comparison shows that the near-surface turbulence, energy dissipation rate and spanwise vortex are greatly enhanced by the existence of ridge, and the maximum value of turbulent kinetic energy at the breaking point can be two times larger than the case without the reef ridge. Moreover, the reef ridge decreases water depth in the surfzone, which makes the role of bottom friction in energy dissipation more significant. The interaction between breaking induced turbulence and the bed becomes more intense.
Negro, V.; López-Gutiérrez, J.S.; Esteban, M.D.; Del Campo, J.M., and Luengo, J., 2018. Action strategy for studying marine and coastal works with climate change on the horizon. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 506–510. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Climate Change effects can be analysed from different points of view. As far as harbour and coastal engineering are concerned, the most worrying effect is the sea level rise, having been observed over the whole planet during the 20th century, reaching figures up to 1 or 2 millimetres per year. Lately, it has been seen an acceleration of the process, developing an annual rise rate of 3 millimetres in the period between 1993 and 2003. In Spain, this rise in sea level can be estimated between 3 and 5 millimetres a year, although this value is not uniform along the whole coastline. The prediction for the first half of the 21st century forecasts a sea level rise of more than 3 centimetres in the Cantabrian coast, between 15 and 20 centimetres in the Mediterranean Sea and 10 in the Gulf of Cadiz, South West of Spain, in the Atlantic Ocean. This means that beaches will shrink between 10 and 15 metres in the Cantabrian, between 8 and 10 metres in the Mediterranean and 8 metres in the Gulf of Cadiz. These movements may affect structures and properties located on the coast and create concerns amongst people living there, particularly when facing extreme climate events. This research reflects on these phenomena and proposes an action strategy to achieve resilient coastal and harbour structures, in order to make them able to cope with any extreme events that may occur.
Deivid Cristian Leal Alves, Jean Marcel de Almeida Espinoza, Miguel da Guia Albuquerque, Marine Bastos da Silva, José Scott Fontoura, Christian Serpa, Jair Weschenfelder
Leal Alves, D.C.; Espinoza, J.M.A.; Albuquerque, M.G.; Silva, M.B.; Fontoura, J.S.; Serpa, C., and Weschenfelder, J., 2018. Bathymetry estimation by orbital data of OLI sensor: a case study of the Rio Grande harbor, southern Brazil. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 51–55. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In the coastal and estuarine systems, the determination of bathymetric data is an important instrument for a safe shipping in harbor zones. Generally, data are collected in situ or ground, however, this information is time-consuming and costly. Remote sensing can be regarded as one of the most promising alternative tools to map bathymetry of the estuaries and coastal zones, due to its extensive coverage of the area and the low cost imbued. This study aims to analyze the accuracy of bathymetric data obtained by the Operational Land Imager (OLI) sensor, coupled to Landsat 8 orbital platform, in comparison to the results with bathymetric data collected in situ (echo sounder) at the Rio Grande channel, situated in Patos Lagoon estuary, southern Brazil. With the bathymetric maps and data collected in situ, it was possible to estimate the estuary depth from Landsat 8 image; using the Coastal band (b1), with a spatial resolution of 30 m and penetration capacity of 15 m, and Near Infrared band (b5), with a spatial resolution of 30 m. The relation between the data collected in situ and the data obtained by remote sensing showed the accuracy of 71% kappa (index of accuracy) and R2 of 81.7% for the image referring to February 2015, nine months before the echo sounding survey. Nevertheless, the image processing for December 2015, one month after the survey with echo sounder, presented a kappa of 85%, and R2 of 96.5%. The results show a good correlation between the data acquired in situ and the data obtained by the OLI sensor. In this way, the remote sensing technique used for bathymetric analysis can be applied as a complementary form, increasing the temporal resolution of the obtained data.
Le Cozannet, G.; Duvat, V.; Salvat, B., Etienne, S.; Terorotua, H.; Garcin, M.; Lecacheux, S., and Montaggioni, L., 2018. Modelling the Response of Atoll Reef Islands to Multi-Millennial Sea Level Rise from the Last Glacial Maximum to the Coming 10kyr: the Case of Mururoa Atoll (Tuamotu, French Polynesia). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 511–515. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Composed of biodetritic sediments and lying just a few meters above present sea-level, atoll reef islands are liable to be highly exposed to coastal flooding and shoreline erosion. Nevertheless, the analysis of multi-decadal shoreline change has shown that most reef islands either remain stable in area or are expanding within the context of current sea level rise. This article addresses the key issue of future atoll-island persistence using a simple morphodynamic model based on the computation of sediment production and fluxes, vertical coral growth and reef island accretion, with special reference to Mururoa Atoll (French Polynesia). The model parameters are calibrated from previously gained stratigraphic frameworks and sediment production rates. While a proper validation is a challenge with the scares data available, the model fits well with the atoll-rim and atoll-islands evolution schemes of Mururoa Atoll since the last glacial maximum. Multi-millennial projections of sea-level rise (Clark et al., 2016) are used to examine future reef island response to rising sea-level. Assuming that all sediment volumes available on the atoll rim maintain in place and that the sediment production remains unaffected by ocean warming and acidification, the reef is interpreted as able to catch up sea level rise in the near future. Even in this very optimistic evolution scheme, the new reef edifice would be filnally drown in a high carbon emission scenario. The present study, along with others, strongly suggests that the persistence of reef islands in the future requires the conservation of already available sediments together with a continued production of coral detritus, not only from the outer slopes, but also on the atoll rim as water depths increase.
Kim, H.-J. and Suh, S.-W., 2018. Improved hypothetical typhoon generation technique for storm surge frequency analyses on the Southwest Korean Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 516–520. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In coastal disasters storm surges accelerate damages. To establish appropriate countermeasures, a probabilistic approach to storm surge prediction is required, particularly in case of the historical record of cyclone populations is slim. Among historical typhoons that affected the southwest coast of Korea, some arrived by passing through the Yellow Sea after landfall on southeast mainland China. This study aims to incorporate resurgence and the mid-latitude transition effect to generate more realistic synthetic storms. Synthetic typhoon simulations and surge analyses were performed by taking probability density function parameters from historical storm data, and the simulations were automated as batches using the Perl script. The results showed that the proposed synthetic generation scheme, which models the resurfacing effect, can produce realistic storm frequency results for the Korean coasts. This work can be applied in further vulnerability analyses of coastal zone management.
Costa, S.; Picado, A.; Vaz, N.; Coelho, C.; Portela, L., and Dias, J.M., 2018. Climate change effects on suspended sediment dynamics in a coastal lagoon: Ria de Aveiro (Portugal). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 521–525. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal systems are very important interface areas between land and sea, subject to constant changes motivated by both natural and anthropogenic factors. In addition to the increasing modifications imposed by human activities, natural processes are also being altered as a result of climate change. Important consequences of climate change in coastal systems are sea level rise (SLR) and changes in freshwater discharge, due to modifications in rainfall patterns and air temperature. The aim of this work was to assess the impact of climate changes on the suspended sediment dynamics in a coastal system (the Ria de Aveiro, Portugal). A sediment transport model was implemented for this system and results used to investigate the impact of SLR and rivers discharge, separately and combined, considering a reference and five future scenarios. Maps of suspended sediment concentration (SSC) and sediment fluxes along the tidal cycle were analysed for each future scenario and compared with the reference scenario. In general, the highest changes on net sediment balance (difference between flood and ebb fluxes) are predicted for the scenario that only considers changes in river discharges, with a decrease of 33% relatively to the reference scenario. Combining changes in both river discharges and mean sea level (MSL), differences are attenuated, with a decrease of 6% in net sediment balance. However, for scenarios with changes only in MSL an opposite behaviour is expected, with an increase of 15%.
Lee, H.S., 2018. Improvement of decomposing results of empirical mode decomposition and its variations for sea-level records analysis. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 526–530. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The performance of empirical mode decomposition (EMD) and its variations such as ensemble EMD (EEMD), complete EEMD with adaptive noise (CEEMDAN) and improved CEEMDAN (impCEEMDAN) are tested using artificial signal tests. In the artificial signal test, intrinsic mode functions (IMFs) are obtained using EMD, EEMD, CEEMDAN, and impCEEMDAN and then compared to prescribed oscillations in an artificial a priori known signal. In all cases, extra and redundant modes are found due to residual noises. Furthermore, the low frequency modes are generally distorted. To overcome this problem a novel approach for reconstructing IMFs is proposed, where low-energy redundant modes are merged to one common signal based on statistical significance tests by comparing the energy-density of IMFs with energy-density spread function of white noise with similar scale. Artificial signal tests illustrate that the mode reconstruction method works well in approximating the prescribed true modes. Overall, the impCEEMDAN performs best with a reasonable fit to the original components and statistically significant low-frequency modes. The mode reconstruction method can improve the decomposing and filtering capacity of EMD and its variations.
Suursaar, Ü.; Sepp, M.; Post, P., and Mäll, M., 2018. An inventory of historic storms and cyclone tracks that have caused met-ocean and coastal risks in the eastern Baltic Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 531–535. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Located on relatively high latitudes, the eastern section of the practically tideless Baltic Sea is frequently battered by extratropical cyclones that have caused storm surges of up to 421 cm (at St. Petersburg, Russia), and 275 cm at Pärnu (Estonia). The analysis of storms includes the events that have yielded the highest sea levels at Pärnu and Narva-Jõesuu tide gauges on an annual basis from 1950–2016. For each event, corresponding cyclone tracks have been extracted from the cyclone database, which is based on NCEP/NCAR reanalysis of air pressure fields in a six–hour interval. Track matches for 109 surge cases were found, including 43 for Pärnu, 42 for Narva-Jõesuu, and 24 common for both locations. Although cyclones from several distinct directions can approach Estonia and the Gulf of Finland area, the most serious meteorological, oceanographic (met-ocean), as well as coastal impacts were connected to westerly approaching deep cyclones with tracks crossing Scandinavia and Southern Finland. A suitable course for the cyclone and a pre-elevated (by up to 70 cm) average Baltic Sea level as a result of preceding series of cyclones are among the important factors which may result in destructive event.
Uranchimeg, S.; Kim, J-G.; Kim, J.-G.; Kwon, H.-H., and Lee, S.-O., 2018. A Bayesian Quantile Regression Approach for Nonstationary Frequency Analysis of Annual Maximum Sea Level in a Changing Climate. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 536–540. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Sea level rise is primarily caused by global warming and has been a key consideration in design practices in coastal engineering. The design of coastal structures is currently based on a frequency analysis of the local sea level under the stationary assumption, meaning that the maximum sea level will not vary significantly over time. However, the stationary assumption for sea levels might not be valid in a changing climate. In such a context, this study proposes a systematic approach to investigate nonstationarity in annual maximum sea levels (AMSLs) and offers estimates of design water levels for coastal structures using a non-crossing quantile regression-based nonstationary frequency analysis model within a fully Bayesian framework. The AMSLs for 20 tide gauge stations, each with more than 28 years of hourly records, are considered and compiled in this study. The nonstationarity in the AMSLs are explored by focusing on the change in the scale and location parameter of the probability distributions. The majority of the stations (three-fourths) are found to have an upward-convergent/divergent pattern in the distribution, and the distribution changes are confirmed by significance tests. This study determines an overly simple nonstationary frequency analysis (NSFA) approach with a time-dependent mean value might lead to underestimation of the AMSLs, which results in an increase the failure risk in coastal structures. A more detailed discussion of the characteristics of the distribution changes for the design water level is provided in the paper.
Ritphring, S.; Somphong, C.; Udo, K., and Kazama, S., 2018. Projections of future beach loss due to sea level rise for sandy beaches along Thailand's coastlines. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 541–545. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastline recession caused by sea level rise due to climate change has become one of the most significant issues worldwide. Thailand's coastlines is also likely to face erosion, especially in the low-lying areas, and its future projection due to sea level rise is necessary. This study compiled a database of beach characteristics, including grain size diameter, beach slope and beach width, to assess the projections of future beach loss along Thailand's coastlines against sea level rise scenarios of the Coupled Model Intercomparison Project Phase 5 (CMIP5) in 2081–2100, relative to a reference period 1986–2005 by using the Bruun rule. Future national beach loss rates were projected to be 45.8% for RCP2.6, 55.0% for RCP4.5, 56.9% for RCP6.0 and 71.8% for RCP8.5. In addition, the rate against the sea level scenarios projected by each CMIP5 model for RCP4.5 ranges from 49.1% for MPI-ESM-LR to 73.4% for MIROC-ESM-CHEM. Based on the current beach situation, sandy beaches in 8 and 23 out of 51 zones will disappear for RCP2.6 and RCP8.5, respectively. These findings will help governors and stakeholders develop adaptation strategies against beach loss due to sea level rise.
Kim C.-H.; Jang C. J., and Kim M.-W., 2018. A Numerical Simulation of Long-Term Sea Level Change in the East Asian Marginal Seas. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 546–550. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
To investigate the regional sea level rise (SLR) and its possible mechanisms in the East Asian Marginal Seas (Yellow Sea (YS), East China Sea (ECS) and Japan/East Sea (JES)) sea level variation was simulated using the global ocean-sea ice coupled model (GFDL MOM5-SIS) forced with European Centre for Medium-range Weather Forecasts reanalysis data for 58 years (1958–2015). Seasonal variation in the simulated sea level shows comparable amplitude and phase to those of the satellite altimetry for 1993–2014 in each sea region. Rates of the simulated SLR are compared with those of the reconstructed sea level (Hamlington et al., 2011) and satellite altimetry sea level: rates of SLR in the YS, ECS and JES for 1958–2009 are 2.1 mm/yr, 2.6 mm/yr, 2.1 mm/yr in the model, and 2.2 mm/yr, 1.9 mm/yr, 2.2 mm/yr in the reconstructed sea level, respectively. For 1993–2014, the SLR rates in the YS, ECS and JES are 3.8 mm/yr, 4.1 mm/yr, 2.8 mm/yr in the model, and 3.4 mm/yr, 2.6 mm/yr, 3.1 mm/yr in the satellite altimetry sea level, respectively. The regional mean sea level distribution in the model shows the SLR of 2~5 cm for 2005 to 2014 relative to the period of 1993 to 2002, which is also evident in the satellite altimetry sea level but in more localized areas. In the SLR between those two periods, model simulation reveals that non-steric sea level change was dominant in the YS, ECS and JES, which is different from the Kuroshio region where steric component was dominant. This result suggests that the recent SLR in the East Asian Marginal Seas is mainly driven by the mass convergence such as the transport changes in the shelf area.
Seo, J.; Ku, H.; Cho, K.; Maeng, J.H., and Lee, H., 2018. Application of SLOSH in estimation of Typhoon-induced Storm Surges in the Coastal Region of South Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 551–555. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
SLOSH (Sea, Lake, and Overland Surges from Hurricane) is a dynamic tropical surge model forecasting real-time storm surges by solving two-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations with hydrostatic approximation. To apply this model SLOSH on estimating the typhoon-induced storm surges around Korean coastal regions, a two-dimensional hyperbolic domain covering the East, the West and the Southern Seas of Korea is developed. The grid resolution is as high as approximately 500m at the coast and extended to about 4.2km far away ocean. By adopting 30-m digital elevation map SKKU DEM which has an advantage on connectivity between land and ocean and KorBathy30s which is 30 seconds gridded bathymetry of Korea marginal seas, the local characteristics are considered on the shape of continental shelf of the East Sea, the West Sea, and the Southern Sea. This SLOSH input domain for Korea is examined by applying for three strong, historical typhoons, THELMA(1987), FAYE(1995), RUSA(2002), MAEMI(2003), MEGI(2004) and SANBA(2012) and comparing to observational storm surges at two tidal station located in southern coastal cities of Tongyeong and Yeosu, South Korea. The SLOSH reproduced well the typhoon-induced surge pattern which dramatically increased and suddenly drop as the typhoons are passing through the stations. In case of typhoon MAMEMI(2003) which recorded almost 170cm of typhoon-induced surge height, the model SLOSH estimates it with less 1% error. At this station, the root-mean-square is shown as 27.92.
Hong, D.-B.; Bae, J.-J., and Yang, C.-S., 2018. Automatic mapping technique of sea ice in the coastal waters of the Arctic Ocean using Sentinel-1 data. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 556–560. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The sea ice information such as ice extent, area, concentration, and thickness has been widely used for analyses of sea level, weather, and climate changes in the Polar Regions. Passive microwave sensing of sea ice traditionally has been applied to the Arctic Ocean for a shipping route support in spite of its low-spatial resolution. C-band Sentinel-1 (constellation of two satellites, Sentinel-1A and Sentinel-1B) synthetic aperture radar (SAR) is considered as one of the effective satellites because it provides an improvement in revisit time, and offers higher resolution and dual polarization (HH and HV). In this study, the Sentinel-1 sea ice mapping system was developed to acquire data automatically for the region of interest in the Arctic coastal region and to map sea ice areas extracted by using the sea ice discrimination algorithm. The system including a data acquisition process can make a sea ice product in 13 minutes. To intuitively understand the distribution of sea ice for safe navigation in coastal waters, the result can be visualized in a KML file that facilitates interfacing with other systems.
Son, M.; Bombardelli, F.A.; Park, B., and Byun, J., 2018. On the Inverse Relationship between Concentration and Size of Cohesive Sediment. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 56–70. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
It is well accepted that the size of floc, the aggregate of cohesive sediment, increases through flocculation processes under high-mass-concentration conditions. However, field studies often show the inverse relationship between floc size and concentration. To examine the mechanism of such inverse relationship, numerical simulations using a robust 1DV model are carried out in this work. At relatively low elevations, the size of floc often has an inverse relationship with concentration under the hydrodynamic conditions of tidal flow and steady current. Nonetheless, the size of floc is proportional to concentration at high elevations. When the inverse relationship exists, the inversion of parameter representing the ratio between aggregation intensity and breakup intensity is found as the hydrodynamics becomes weak. From the findings, it is deduced that the floc size is affected by non-linear interactions between turbulence and concentration. None of them can be used to parameterize the tendency of size variation solely.
Yang, C.-S.; Kim, K.O.; Lim, H.S.; Kim C.-H.; Kim M.-W., and Hong, D.-B., 2018. Voyage environmental information system (VEIS) for safe navigation support in the coastal waters of the Arctic Ocean. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 561–565. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The usage of the Northern Sea Route (NSR) in the Arctic Ocean has increased much over the years. For the navigation safety in the polar areas, the Polar Code entered into force on January 1, 2017 by International Maritime Organization (IMO). Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology (KIOST) has developed the Arctic Voyage Environmental Information System (VEIS) for sea ice, ocean, wave and weather parameters with a 2.5 km grid spacing on a polar stereographic north projection. Satellite-based sea ice concentration (SIC) includes three kinds of products (AL2, A25, and AM1). AL2 is produced over 5 times a day using the dynamic composite technique based on the SIC Level 2 data acquired from Advanced Microwave Scanning Radiometer 2 (AMSR2). The composite (A25) of AL2 and AMSR2 Level 3 data is also generated once a day to serve SIC less than 15%. AM1 is the product of A25 merged with sea ice extent data from Moderate Resolution Imaging Spectroradiometer (MODIS) of 1 km resolution. The short-term prediction data for wave and weather were processed from NCEP, and the data for ocean and sea ice were from Mercator, MetOffice and MetNo through E.U. Copernicus Marine Service Information. The model-based short-term SIC products were rescaled using the A25 data. The mid-term SIC and sea ice thickness (SIT) prediction (one-month) system was developed using a statistical method with 26-year re-analysis volume and a short-term predicted sea ice data.
Kim, Y.-T.; Park, J.-H.; Choi, B.-H.; Kim, D.H., and Kwon, H.-H., 2018. A Bivariate Frequency Analysis of Extreme Wave Heights and Periods Using a Copula Function in South Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 566–570. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Sea storms are generally described by a set of variables such as wave height, wave period and wave direction, and these random variables are typically treated as independent of one another. Moreover, univariate wave frequency analysis has been applied to estimate design wave heights corresponding to various return levels (e.g. 20, 50 and 200-year) using significant wave heights under stationary conditions. However, it has been acknowledged that these variables are often correlated with each other, and such dependence structure needs to be considered in the estimation of extreme quantiles. More specifically, a joint estimation of quantiles for different combinations of these variables such as wave heights and wave periods is required to reliably assess optimal design of coastal (or offshore) structures. Over the last several decades, accelerated sea level rise (SLR) and its impact on coastal areas have been reported in many parts of the world. Estimation of extreme quantiles of SLR as a nonstationary process play a crucial role in assessing these impacts. In these contexts, a multivariate frequency model using a copula function approach is introduced to describe sea storm risk, which is mainly characterized by wave heights and periods. The proposed multivariate frequency analysis offers several advantages over widely used univariate stationary frequency analysis including uncertainty estimation, improved representation of inter-dependency and significant improvement of compound risk estimation.
Min, Y.; Jeong, J.-Y.; Min, I.-K.; Kim, Y.S.; Shim, J.-S., and Do, K., 2018. Enhancement of wave radar observation data quality at the Socheongcho ocean research station. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 571–575. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Ocean Research Stations are constructed in the Yellow and East China Seas to conduct observations on oceanic, meteorological, and environmental components. For ocean waves, the stations have utilized the Miros Wave and Current Radar (MWR), which is a kind of remote-sensing wave observation instrument. Under mild weather conditions, however, the MWR tends to produce noisy measurements. To overcome this shortcoming, Miros Ltd. offers various types of filters including Reduce Noise Frequency, Correlation Check, Direction Filter, Reduce White Noise and Phillips Check. This study assesses the performance of each filter by comparing MWR measurements with the Directional Waverider Buoy (DWB) time series from the Socheongcho ORS for the period of January to April 2015. A statistical analysis reveals that the quality of the MWR data can be substantially improved by applying some of the filters to the MWR raw time series. From this assessment, we suggested that the combined adaptation of Correlation Check, Direction Filter, and Phillips Check are most suitable for the MWR observations in the Yellow and East China Seas. This study would be useful for scientific purposes such as sea area characterization and high wave generation mechanism. The improved MWR time series could be used for a scientific study on the spatial and temporal characteristics of waves in terms of the generation and propagation of waves particularly.
Kim, Y.S.; Jang, C.J.; Jeong, J.-Y., and Shim J.-S., 2018. Daily to seasonal variability of the mixed layer depth in the central Yellow Sea: Effects of atmospheric forcing. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 576–580. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Daily to seasonal variability of the mixed layer depth (MLD) was investigated based on the CTD mooring time series during the April to October 2015 period, taken from the Ongjin Socheongcho Ocean Research Station in the central Yellow Sea. The time evolution of the seasonal MLD was characterized by three distinct phases: fully-mixed (deep) phase by late April, quasi-stable (shallow) phase from late April to late July, and gradual deepening phase thereafter. During the first phase, the entire water column was occupied by cold bottom waters, which seemed to impede the change of the MLD according to atmospheric forcing. Besides this fully-mixed phase, daily MLD fluctuations varied coherently with the surface wind speed with a lag of several hours on the time scale of few days. During the deepening phase, the MLD increased monotonically at a rate of 2.6 m per month, corresponding to gradually increased net heat losses to the atmosphere at a rate of −2.7 W/m2 per day, suggesting the role of net heat flux in determining seasonal variance of the MLD. The relationships of both the winds and net heat fluxes with the MLDs weakened to an insignificant level from late July to middle August. During this period, heavy rainfall associated with both typhoon and tropical depressions, and the attendant riverine runoff probably added buoyancy forcing, forming a barrier layer near the MLD base. Our results collectively suggest that atmospheric forcing plays a critical role in determining the variability of the MLD in the central Yellow Sea, where three-dimensional oceanic processes including tides and currents are relatively weak.
Kim, J.-K.; Choi, B.-J., and Lee S.-H., 2018. Non-seasonal sea level variations in the Korea Strait and regional atmospheric conditions. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 581–585. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
To investigate dominant sea level variations in the Korea Strait (KS) and to find their responsible factors, Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis was performed on the non-seasonal components of sea level, wind, and sea level pressure data from 1993 to 2014. The non-seasonal sea level variation accounts for 20% of the total sea level variations in the KS. The first EOF mode of the sea level explains 63.8% of the total variance and represents strait-wide simultaneous sea level oscillations. EOF analysis on the surface wind data over the KS and the East China Sea was performed and the first EOF of winds, explaining 49.5% of the total variance, represents the strength of the northeasterly wind. The amplitude time series of the first EOFs from wind and sea level data has correlation coefficients (r) of 0.48. The sea level and wind data have common spectral peaks at periods of 5.1 and 10.2 months. Variance and the first EOF of the steric height in the KS are relatively high around Jeju Island while they are small near the south coast of Korea. Correlation between the amplitude time series of sea level and steric height first modes is low (r = 0.20). The basin-wide simultaneous sea level variations with intra-seasonal and interannual periods in the KS are found to be modulated by variations in the regional surface winds and sea level pressure patterns over the East China Sea and the KS rather than by changes in local steric height.
Kudryavtseva, N.; Pindsoo, K., and Soomere, T., 2018. Application of Non-stationary Extreme Value Modeling to Account for Trends in Extreme Water Level Changes Along the Baltic Sea Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 586–590. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The classic approach to extreme water levels and their return periods relies on the choice of a convenient extreme value distribution and the subsequent evaluation of its parameters. However, there is increasing evidence that these parameters vary with time owing to climate change. A novel non-stationary modeling of parameters of a generalized extreme value (GEV) distribution is implemented based on the block maximum approach, looking for linear trends in the location parameter of the GEV distribution. The analysis is performed for simulated NEMO-Nordic water level data along the Baltic Sea coast for years 1979–2012 with a spatial resolution of ~3.7 km (2 nm) and time resolution of 1 hr. A homogeneous map of the water level 30-yr return values for the coastal regions of the Baltic Sea showed that the highest values (1.0–1.7 m) are in the Gulf of Finland. The results show high spatial variations in linear trends in the location parameter of GEV, indicating, that in case of regional seas, the changes in the extreme value behavior can have a characteristic spatial scale as small as ~100 km. The most notable linear trends are detected along the Pomeranian Bay, where it was found that the difference between non-stationary and stationary 30-yr return values reaches 0.15 m, suggesting that the deviation can be up to 0.5 m for the 100-yr period. Therefore, it is critical to consider non-stationary effects in extreme value modeling for the coastal engineering constructions to prevent underestimation of the risks from the water level extremes.
Jang, C.J.; Choi, W.; Shin, H.-J., and Kim C.-H., 2018. Future changes in the sea surface wind over the East Asian marginal seas projected by regional climate models. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 591–595. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Sea surface wind plays a crucial role in coastal safety including flooding and coastal erosion mainly by changing sea level and ocean wind waves, and the regional characteristics of sea surface wind can be influenced by global warming. This study aims to investigate future changes in sea surface wind due to global warming in the East Asian marginal seas (EAMS) projected by four different regional climate models contributing to CORDEX-EA (COordinated Regional climate Downscaling Experiment-East Asia) downscaling project, by using daily mean winds for the present (historical runs for 1980–2004) and the future climate (RCP4.5 scenario run for 2025–2049). In general, the climatological-mean wind speed is projected to decrease up to 30 % in winter, but to increase up to 40 % in summer, indicating seasonally different large-scale atmospheric responses to global warming in EAMS. The prevailing wind direction, a critical factor in coastal erosion in EAMS, is projected to be significantly changed in both winter and summer, contributing to the changes in the mean wind speed. Extreme winds, defined as an annual maximum of the wind speed, show negligible changes with considerably large intermodel differences. Our findings suggest that projected future changes in sea surface wind over EAMS can be considerably different depending on seasons and models.
Kim, H.J.; Cho, S.M., and Cho, W.C., 2018. Numerical analysis of beach erosion at Jeongdongjin Beach in South Korea using field survey and measurement data. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 596–600. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Recently, Jeongdongjin Beach in Gangneung, Gangwon–do, in the eastern part of South Korea, has been seriously eroded, and several parts of the revetments along the coast were subsided due to frequent high wave attacks. Thus, several parts of the Jeongdongjin rail bike track and facility in the southern part of Jeongdongjin station were damaged and washed out. In this study, field surveys and measurements (including waves, current, water depth, seabed material, beach profile, and shoreline) at Jeongdongjin Beach 2014–2015 were conducted to analyze and determine the erosion process. From the surveys and measurements, it reveals that longshore currents moving to the south and north are generated in winter and summer season due to dominant NE and ENE wave directions, respectively. Rip currents are also generated in several points near the coast due to waves coming from various directions and morphological characteristics. Beach erosion at the front of Jeongdongjin station has repeatedly occurred due to high wave attacks. Numerical simulations on the generation of long-shore current, sediment transport, and shoreline change were conducted using field data, and the erosion process at Jeongdongjin Beach was analyzed to determine the characteristics of seasonal longshore sediment transport and the effect of the construction of revetments to beach erosion. From these monitoring data and numerical results, the process of Jeongdongjin Beach erosion was predicted and beach maintenance and protection plans at Jeongdongjin Beach are established.
Valentim, S.S.; Menezes, M.O.B., and Teixeira, C.E.P., 2018. Seasonally hypersaline estuaries in semiarid climate regions: an Example from the Northeast Brazil. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 6–10. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Coreaú river estuary is located in Ceará state, Northeast of Brazil and it is a shallow system, dominated by meso tides and barred about 35 km upstream from its mouth. Generally, hypersaline estuaries are naturally found in arid and semi-arid regions of Brazil, but the blockage the natural flow of rivers by dam interference can also increase hypersaline conditions and residence time in these estuaries. This study examines the importance of water balance and dam interference to the circulation of the Coreaú river estuary, using observed data and Delt3D numerical simulations. Five discharge scenarios (with values from 0 to 300 m3s−1) were used in the Delft3D simulations to calculate the residence and flushing time in the estuary. Based on salinity data collected during two years the estuary was characterized as a hypersaline and well mixed system during the dry period (August to December) and a positive estuary during the wet season (January to June). The observed salinity along the estuary ranged from 37 g/kg to 44 g/kg in October, 2012 and from 37g/kg to 13g/kg in May, 2013, respectively near the mouth and 20 km upstream. Regardless of the discharge conditions and the atmospheric water balance, the estuary acquires hypersaline conditions during the dry season. Tidal circulation under all discharge conditions dominates the residence time in the first 10 km of the estuary. Water and materials from the upper region of the estuary depends on the river discharge to be transported to the shelf. Under all discharge conditions lower than 300 m3 s−1 the flushing time of the upper estuary is larger than 60 days. These fact associated with the high values of evaporation during the dry season explains the hypersalinization of the Coreaú estuary.
Kim, C.H.; Kim, H.W.; Park, C.H.; Kim, W.H.; Lee, M.H.; Choi, S.Y., and Do, J.D., 2018. Coastline change measurement using shipborne mobile LiDAR in Anmok Beach, Gangneung, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 601–605. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal areas, used as human utilization areas like leisure space, medical care, ports, and power plants, etc., are regions that are continuously changing and interconnected with ocean and land. Regular monitoring of coastline changes is essential at key locations with such volatility. For effective monitoring coastal changes, KIOST (Korea Institute of Ocean Science & Technology) has constructed a shipborne mobile LiDAR system. The shipborne mobile LiDAR system, installed in a research vessel, comprised a terrestrial LiDAR (RIEGL LMS-420i), an IMU (MAGUS Inertial ), a RTKGNSS (LEICA GS15 GS25), and a fixed platform. The shipborne mobile LiDAR system is much more effective than terrestrial LiDAR systems for the measurements without shadow zones in foreshore areas. We conducted coast area measurements at January 2016 (winter season) and September 2016 (summer season) in Anmok Beach, Gangneung, Korea. The study area is located in the north of the Gangneung port. Coastal erosion occurs frequently in the study area and coastal terrain changes continuously. Based on the measured mobile LiDAR data, the coastline of the Anmok Beach was extracted. Compared to the winter coastline, the summer coastline has undergone many changes. The shoreline curvature of the summer was larger than that of the winter and the summer coastline alternated between landward migration and seaward migration in the northern part of the study area. In the southern part, the landward migration of the shoreline mainly appeared. The concomitant wave data, including wave directions, significant wave height, and energy spectrum, showed strong correlation with the coastline change. The statistical results of high wave data indicated that high waves coming from NNE and NE in winter and from ENE in summer were dominant. Effective monitoring of the coastline changes using the shipborne mobile LiDAR system will be able to contribute to coastal erosion management and response.
Woo, S.-B. and Yoon, B.I., 2018. Numerical simulation of fortnightly modulations of the convergence zone by residual volume transport in a macrotidal estuary. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 606–610. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study examines the fortnightly modulation of convergence zone by residual volume transport of main channel using a numerical model in the tidally dominated Han River estuary (HRE), South Korea. The numerical model, EFDC (Environmental Fluid Dynamics Code), was simulated for 124 days, from May to August 2009, and used observed freshwater discharge for major rivers of HRE. The residual volume transport discharged into the HRE from the Yeomha channel and Seokmo channel had a ratio of 44:56 over thirty days under normal freshwater conditions. The model results show that a temporal variation of the residual volume transport (Lagrangian transport = Eulerian transport Stokes transport) is formed near the Yeongjong Bridge with spring-neap variability, and net transport is outflowed to the west through the channel between Ganghwa and Yeongjong. Due to magnitude change of the residual volume transport by fortnightly (spring-neap) modulation, convergence zone (junction location of residual volume transport) show upward and downward spatial variation. We found that the convergence zone moves downstream during the spring period because of; 1) strong net downward barotropic flow by increased sea level difference between upstream and downstream during the spring tide; 2) decreased baroclinic flow towards the upstream of the main channel, caused by intensified tidal mixing during the spring period; and 3) increased outflow through the tidal flat channel between Ganghwa and Yeongjong during the spring period.
Watanabe K. and Kumagai K., 2018. Investigation of the River Mouth Topography Change by the Response Characteristics of River Discharge and Ocean Waves at Yoneshiro River. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 61–65. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Frequent occurrence of water level rise caused with increase in abnormal weather such as the local torrential rain by the influence of the global warming. Therefore, apprehensive the saline water intrusion was generated at the tidal area due to water level rising and the River mouth topography change in recent years. Saline water intrusion was generated to go up upstream by the ocean waves during winter at the river mouth especially. Hence, riverine environment was affected from saline water intrusion. It was in particular thought river mouth shape have a high impact on tidal discharge and saline water intrusion. However, it was not understood in sufficient elucidation of the mechanism of the increase of tidal discharge saline water intrusion. For this reason, it was very important to examine the long-run effect of river shape on tidal discharge and saline water intrusion.
In this study, it was investigated about the hydraulic characteristics by the field observation and data analysis target at Yoneshiro river where the extension of the sandbar was remarkable. As a result, the amount of change of the river mouth width ΔB grows large more than up to approximately 20m from a previous week. It was revealed that river-mouth closure up to approximately around 10m occurred by the reverse case. Saline water intrusion was not confirmed in Yoneshiro River which was developed of the sandbar. It was thought to cause the river-mouth closure by the development of the sandbar. Furthermore, discharge of wave set-up was about 70m3/s from calculation of the tidal discharge. In addition, it became clear from river mouth width rate of change α that there were many changes of the river mouth width in 500m3/s or less river discharge in Yoneshiro River
Tõnisson, H.; Suursaar, Ü.; Kont, A.; Muru, M.; Rivis, R.; Rosentau, A.; Tamura, T., and Vilumaa, K., 2018. Rhythmic patterns of coastal formations as signs of past climate fluctuations on uplifting coasts of Estonia, the Baltic Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 611–615. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
On uplifting and tideless Baltic Sea Coasts in Estonia, a number of elevated mid to late Holocene beach ridge systems with rhythmic patterns are identified. Such uplifted coastal formations serve as archives of past variations in sea level and climate, as well as extreme events. Luminescence dating and interpretation of airborne LiDAR elevation data were used to identify the main formation mechanisms of such beach ridge systems. More extensive (up to 100–150 ridges) and clearer ridge patterns were found on faster emerging (uplift rates around 3 mm/yr) and well-exposed western and northern coasts, where they were located on the heights of up to 18 m. The average temporal periodicity (30–40 years) in such ridge systems is in good agreement with 25–40 year cyclicity, which is detectable in Estonian tide-gauge records, wave hindcasts, regional storminess and the NAO indices. However, typical average ridge spacing was 2–3 times longer in the study areas with lower (0.5–2 mm/yr) uplift rates. It suggests that the cyclicity in ridges depends on uplift rate and is additionally enhanced or modified by decadal-scale variations in forcing conditions that is locally available.
Boisson, A. and Allard, M., 2018. Quaternary Hydrodynamic Contexts of the Emerging Coasts of Nunavik (Northern Québec, Canada). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 616–620. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Nunavik (northern Québec, Canada) is bounded by Hudson Bay to the West and by Hudson Strait and Ungava Bay to the North. These understudied Arctic and Subarctic shores are undergoing glacio-isostatic uplift, with current emergence rates of 5 to 13 mm/yr., counterbalancing the current rise of sea level. A study of the effects of Quaternary hydrodynamic conditions on the emerging coastal geomorphology of Nunavik was conducted based on geotagged videography and photography collected by helicopter between Kuujjuarapik and Kangiqsualujjuaq in August 2015 and August 2016. In total, 45 hours of videography and 37,000 high resolution photographs were taken along the coast. Through detailed segmentation and characterization of that ~ 10,000 km long coastline, one of our main objectives is to better understand the shaping of the emerging coastlines by hydrodynamic processes (waves, tides, sea-ice). The results of this study emphasize on a strong trichotomy between these seaboards because they are very different in terms of tidal conditions, wind and sea-ice climate, morphology and coastal permafrost. In relation to these specific hydrodynamic contexts, conspicuous and poorly documented emerging landforms were identified and described such as boulder barricades along the coast of Ungava Bay, and reworked De Geer moraine ridges along the northeastern coast of Hudson Bay. Coastal risks in Nunavik are also briefly discussed.
Tanaka, H.; Duy, D.V.; Mitobe, Y., and Viet, N.T., 2018. Theory for Erosion Wave Propagation in Cua Dai Beach, Vietnam. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 621–625. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This paper deals with the propagation of erosion wave in Cua Dai Beach in Central Vietnam under the influence of longshore sediment movement using analytical results from the simplified equation of the one-line model. In addition, measured shoreline positions obtained from Landsat images are utilized to validate the calculated results. Effects of the waves on the shapes of the erosion/accretion zones along the Cua Dai Beach are observed. Using the analytical solutions, the propagation speed of the erosion wave is estimated as 37 m/y while this value is 54 m/y in reality. Coastal structures such as seawalls located along the Cua Dai Beach is causing more severe erosion along Cua Dai Beach.
Jeong, E.J.; Woo, H.J.; Kang, J.; Lee, J.-H., and Choi, J.U., 2018. Study of Holocene paleo-environmental evolution using cores from the downstream area of the Nakdong River Delta, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 626–630. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Nakdong River Delta in Korea consists of wide and thick sediments, which are excellent for undertaking highresolution investigations of paleo-environmental evolution. This study describes the horizontal evolution of the sediment environment during the Late Quaternary based on the KND-3 and ND-3 cores obtained from the downstream area of the Nakdong River Delta. The lowest sediments in these cores differ markedly, with KND-3 mainly being composed of olive gray coarse, sandy sediments with pebbles of c. 2-cm diameter, which are interpreted as representing a paleo-channel environment, and ND-3 mainly consisting of red silty sediments (paleosol), which are interpreted as representing alluvial deposits that were exposed to the atmosphere. By contrast, the upper sediments above 40.00 m in both cores were deposited when the sea level rose to a similar level as seen today, at which time both cores evolved through a succession of environments from estuary complex, through to shallow-marine, prodelta, delta front, and the present-day delta plain.
Ab Razak, M.S.; Suryadi, F.X.; Jamaluddin, N., and Mohd Noor, N.A.Z., 2018. Shoreline Planform Stability of Embayed Beaches Along the Malaysian Peninsular Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 631–635. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The existence of embayed beaches is pronounced along the coast of Peninsular Malaysia. The stability of such beaches is yet to be confirmed. The present study aims at investigating the shoreline planform stability on the east and west coasts of Peninsular Malaysia. 190 embayed beaches were found along the Malaysian Peninsular coast, including natural beaches and man-made beaches. Of these, 139 beaches were on the west coast while 51 beaches were on the east coast. Results of the MEPBAY model show along the east coast, 45%, 51% and 4% were classified as the static, dynamic, and natural beach reshaping, respectively. Beaches on the west Peninsular coast that is mainly characterised by the muddy coast were more pronounced to be in the static state which comprised of 85% compared to the beaches on the east coast, that are mostly sandy. While, another 15 % were fall under dynamic equilibrium state. Sediment supply from the river, improper placement of coastal structures, sediment bypassing at headland are some possible factors that may cause the dynamic and instability of the embayed beaches studied.
Bamunawala, J.; Ranasinghe, R.; van der Spek, A.; Maskey, S., and Udo, K., 2018. Assessing future coastline change in the vicinity of tidal inlets via reduced complexity modelling. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 636–640. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastline change in the vicinity of tidal inlets is mainly influenced by four processes; the Bruun effect, sea level rise driven basin infilling, variations in river discharge and fluvial sedimentation, which are driven by both climate change and anthropogenic activities. However, a coastline change model that accounts for all of the aforementioned processes under both climate change and anthropogenic influences has been lacking. The methodology presented here accounts for climate change and anthropogenic forcing in assessing potential future coastline change in the vicinity of two different types of tidal inlets. Application of this method indicates a coastline progradation of ~20 m at Kalutara inlet (Sri Lanka) and a coastline recession of ~30 m at Alsea estuary (USA) by 2100. Scrutinizing the relative contributions to these predicted coastline changes illustrates that anthropogenic influences could dictate fluvial sediment supply to coasts, underlining the significance of integrating both climate change and anthropogenic influences when assessing future coastline change along inlet-interrupted coastlines.
Chu A.; Wang Z.B.; de Vriend H.J., and Tai J.A., 2018. Parallel morphodynamic modelling for the Yangtze Estuary. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 641–645. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Model input reduction and morphological acceleration techniques to bridge the large time scale of morphological evolution and the small time scale of hydrodynamically driven sediment transport is investigated for the Yangtze Estuary morphodynamic model. The discharge series of the river is schematized into a set of multi-discharge levels. Each discharge level coupled with the spring-neap tide forms one morphodynamic model for the estuary with bed stratigraphy approach applied. These models are used to simulate the bathymetry change of the estuary in parallel with the results merged together base on the Mor-Merge (MM) method. The morphological factor is used to accelerate the bathymetry change during hydrodynamic simulation. The modelled bathymetry change based on MM method is compared with the Quasi Real Time (QRT) simulation result. It shows that the results of the MM model with more discharge levels correlate more significantly with that of the QRT model. Therefore, the MM approach with multi discharges, which achieves an acceptable acceleration for morphological change, results in the feasibility of the medium term morphodynamic model of the Yangtze Estuary.
Kombiadou, K.; Matias, A.; Carrasco, R.; Ferreira, Ó.; Costas, S., and Vieira, G., 2018. Towards Assessing the Resilience of Complex Coastal Systems: Examples from Ria Formosa (South Portugal). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 646–650. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The present paper contributes to assessing the resilience of a complex barrier island environment, namely of the Ria Formosa multi-inlet system in southern Portugal. The long-term morphologic evolution of four study areas during the last 60 years (1947 to 2014) is analysed based on aerial photographs, including the environments of oceanic and backbarrier beaches, dunes and salt marshes. The results show that each study area responded to external drivers (inlet stabilisation works, storms, etc.) differently, evolving in distinct patterns during the study period. All four study areas appear resilient to external pressures and/or forcing conditions, since they are either transforming (Barreta and Culatra islands), or adapting (Cabanas island and Cacela peninsula) or remaining stable at a near-equilibrium state (Tavira island). Based on the analysis of the multi-decadal evolution of the sites, four resilient barrier states are identified, related to the maturity and growth of the barrier. In the next stages, the research will focus on the relation between medium to short-term changes, aiming at understanding the response and feedbacks of the environments to specific drivers of change and relating them to resilience indicators.
Manzolli, R.P.; Portz, L.C.; Bitencourt, V.J.B.; Leal, R.A.; Martins, E.M.; Biancini da Silva, A.; Barboza, E.G.; Caron, F.; Alcantará-Carrió, J., and Sawakuchi, A.O., 2018. Process control in the geneses and evolution of a lagoonbarrier system inside of the Patos lagoon, South of Brazil. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 651–655. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The origin and geological evolution of a complex of a beach ridgeplain in the Feitoria lagoon-barrier, located on the western margin of the southern cell Patos lagoon, Brazil was influenced by the interactions between the alocyclic (climate change and relative sea level) and autocyclic (sediment supply, waves, longshore drift and storm surges) forcing. The study of this regressive beach ridgeplain included the analysis of orthophotos; topographic detail (PRO-XRS Trimble® – post-processed); and shallow geophysical data with Ground Penetrating Radar (GPR), 150, 200 and 400 MHz antennae, combined with facies analysis and radiocarbon dating (AMS) and Optically Stimulated Luminescence (OSL) from shallow borehole samples. The analysis of orthophotos allowed for the definition of at least nine morphologically distinct series of progradation, marked by truncations of progressive orientation changes. The integration of topographically corrected GPR data, sedimentary records, and geochronological data determined the beginning of the progradation occurred at 7.2 kaBP. At the beginning of progradation, the low tide terrace was at the height of 1.9m (EGM96) Above the Sea Current Level (ASCL). The swash zone was in the 2.5m, and the crest reached 4.3m ASCL. Currently, the low tide terrace quota is −0.4m, the swash zone to 0.3m and the crest reaches 2.1m ASCL. Among other factors, the fall of the lagoon base levels was associated with sea level fall during the Holocene regression. However, crest construction control is dependent on the lagoon base level oscillation, which in turn is controlled by the precipitation regime and storms surges. Moreover, these results suggest that the orientation of the ridges was controlled by changes in the internal lagoon hydrodynamics, due to the progressive narrowing of the lagoon connection with the open ocean.
Gómez, M.; Villagrán, M.; Martínez, C., and Belmonte, A., 2018. Characterizing the Longshore Sediment Transport Pattern on Beaches in the Gulf of Arauco, Chile, to Assess Morphological Shoreline Evolution. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 656–660. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal evolution is an important research topic worldwide and has become increasingly relevant due to growing anthropogenic pressure on the coast and a climate change scenario (Masselink et al., 2016). The Gulf of Arauco covers an area of roughly 40,000 km2 and has a sandy-rocky coastline located in a very seismic environment. The area has suffered several major earthquakes during the last century (Valdivia 1960, Maule 2010) and seismic displacement has widely affected the coastline (Béjar-Pizarro et al., 2010). Despite these findings, the morphological evolution of sandy coastlines is mainly caused by wave-driven littoral processes. In this paper, using numerical modeling (Delft3D), we aim to characterize the longshore sediment transport (LST) direction at several spots (7 beaches) spread along the coastline of the Gulf of Arauco. Wave patterns were identified at each study site, revealing the importance of Santa Maria Island, located at the entrance to the gulf, despite the approach direction of deep water waves. The island acts as a moderator of wave patterns, softening the highly energetic swell that comes from the Antarctic Ocean and sorting the wave propagation inside the gulf. Moreover, LST patterns were characterized at each site for dominant wave conditions (SW swell and NW winter storms) and it was possible to explain how each condition has a different response at each spot, even under similar co-seismic displacements. Adaptation capabilities differ from site to site, suggesting a dynamic equilibrium of beaches in the area.
Sousa, M.C.; Ribeiro, A.S.; Des, M.; Mendes, R.; Alvarez, I.; Gomez-Gesteira, M., and Dias, J.M., 2018. Integrated high-resolution numerical model for the NW Iberian Peninsula coast and main estuarine systems. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 66–70. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The NW Iberian Peninsula (NWIP) coast includes a large diversity of estuarine systems such as Rias, river estuaries and coastal lagoons, being characterized by a high primary production, responsible for the significant fisheries and aquaculture productivity of the region. Thus, the main objective of this study is the development of a novel integrated high-resolution circulation and hydrographic coastal model designed with Delft3D-flow and applied for a large and complex area integrating the NWIP continental shelf and main estuarine systems. A domain decomposition technique was adopted to resolve the complex geomorphology in the study area. This approach allows local refinement in estuarine systems with the capability of two-way communication of water level, currents and hydrographic properties between those areas and the coastal ocean. The model was successfully validated using sea surface elevation, salinity and water temperature data from various observational sources, including remotely sensed images. Numerical calculations show good agreement with the observed water level in the entire domain. In addition, measured salinity and water temperature are well reproduced by the model. Results from two real events (summer 2005 and winter 2012–2013) were compared with remote sensing products, revealing that predictions adequately represent the hydrographic patterns observed. Results showed a complex interaction among estuarine systems as well with the adjacent coast, in addition to the accuracy of the integrated high-resolution numerical model developed in reproducing the hydrodynamic and thermohaline patterns of the NWIP coast and main estuarine systems.
Kim, D.-H,; Kim, B., and Choi, B., 2018. Adaptability of suspended sediment transportmodel for sandbar migration simulation. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 661–665. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Adaptability of a nonequilibrium suspended sediment transport model to flow and morphological conditions was studied. Under dispersive and unsteady flow conditions, four sets of numerical simulations were conducted using a morphodynamic model. The flow fields were modeled using the Boussinesq equation and the bottom evolutions were modeled using the transport equation for the suspended load and the bed load formulae. Numerical simulations using a constant suspended parameter and variable bed load parameters within a multiple of reference values yielded very similar predictions. These similarities resulted from the adaptability of the suspended sediment transport model which considered the flow and morphological conditions; although the use of different values of bed load parameters resulted in different individual contributions to the bed load fluxes by the parameters, the suspended sediment model adjusted the suspended load flux and made total fluxes converged. The same results were observed in the bottom evolution rates. On the other hand, successful results could not be obtained in the opposite cases: with fixed bed load parameter and variable suspended load parameter.
Alexandre Nicolae Lerma, Thomas Bulteau, Héloise Muller, Clément Decarsin, Raphael Gillet, François Paris, Mélanie Biausque, Nadia Senechal, Bruno Castelle
Nicolae Lerma A.; Bulteau, T.; Muller, H.; Decarsin, C.; Gillet, R.; Paris, F.; Biausque, M.; Senechal, N., and Castelle, B., 2018. Towards the development of a storm erosion EWS for the French Aquitanian coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 666–670. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The 230-km long Aquitaine sandy coast, SW France, is vulnerable to erosion hazards owing to its full exposure to Atlantic storm waves. Since 2015, the Observatory of the Aquitaine Coast and several academic and local partners have developed a network to better survey and forecast storm-driven morphological changes at regional scale. This paper presents the implementation of an early warning system (EWS) with the primary objective to alert the network members 2–3 days ahead in order to perform pre-storm and post-storm surveys. Regional bulletins are edited to identify the most exposed coastal sections. At local scale, tests are realized on two morphological indicators used to forecast qualitatively and quantitatively the likelihood of beach and dune erosion. The two indicators (namely the Collision Regime Indicator, CRI, and the Eroded Volume Indicator, EVI, were calibrated and further validated at two nearby beaches where extensive morphological data are collected regularly: bimonthly surveys from 2009 to 2015 at Truc Vert beach and surveys every 2 to 7 days during the winters since 2015 at Biscarrosse beach. Results indicate promising performance, with the CRI predicting collision regime when front dune erosion was indeed observed, and the EVI predicting fairly accurate eroded sediment volume on cross shore beach profile. Nevertheless, more extensive validation of the CRI and EVI is needed to extend the indicators to the entire Aquitaine coast and for a wide range single storms and storm clusters.
Jardim, K.A.; Santos, V.F., and Oliveira, U.R., 2018. Paleodrainage systems and connections to the southern lacustrine belt applying remote sensing data, Amazon coast, Brazil. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 671–675. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Paleodrainage systems mapped in many regions worldwide reveal important inactive fluvial systems that indicate changes in morphosedimentary, tectonic and environmental processes in different time scales. Two paleodrainage systems were identified north of the Amazon River mouth, associated with the Southern Lacustrine Belt at Cabo Norte. The analyses were performed using data from orbital remote sensors, validated by field information and overflights. The paleodrainage systems show predominant North-South (N-S) and Southwest-Northeast (SW-NE) directions. The N-S system may be connected to an ancient Pleistocene coastline. The SW-NE system is younger, with the same direction as the current river courses and is associated with the genesis of the Araguari River. The paleodrainage alignments of this system in the Northwest-Southeast direction (NW-SE) show the same direction as tectonic lineaments presented from the basement to the continental shelf. The identified paleodrainage systems indicate significant changes in the regional drainage of the Amazonian coastal plain and indicate intense riverbed aggradation processes, which may be associated with neotectonic movements and relative sea level variations during the Quaternary. These are important indicators for the understanding of environmental changes during the Late Pleistocene and Holocene, and may aid in the paleogeographic reconstitution of the Amazon river mouth.
Bitoun, R.E.; Collin, A.; James, D., and Pioch, S., 2018. Modelling Saltmarsh Spatial Evolution at High Resolution from 1948 to 2100. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 676–680. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Saltmarshes are boundary sea-land-air ecosystems which are globally threatened despite the plethora of ecosystem services they provide. Their evolution is spatially complex and multifactorial, influenced mostly by ecological and physical drivers such as tidal range, wave energy, hydrologic components and climatic conditions. Saltmarshes can respond positively to climate change due to their adaptiveness especially in areas provided with high tidal energy. While the conditions and determinants of marsh evolution are known locally, the spatial mapping of such processes across time is strongly expected.
It is hereby proposed to study the interactions of the spatial evolution of Beaussais' Bay saltmarsh (France) from 1948 to 2013 by means of ocean-climate data. Time series of the saltmarsh spatial response, based on five high resolution aerial photographs, were explained by a multiple linear regression on continuous temperature, precipitation and mean sea level data. The model significantly explained the average horizontal accretion of the marsh platform by local warming and rising sea-level (Pearson's correlation coefficient r=0.63, RMSE=5.22). The increase in temperature explains best the model (R2=0.88), while sea-level and precipitation are secondary predictors (R2=0.16 and R2=0.11, respectively). The model enabled fine-resolution mapping to be predicted based on both IPCC ocean-climate scenarios and historical trends of the marsh surface up to 2100. The findings confirm the trends observed so far, enhancing the importance of saltmarsh conservation as a coastal protection. Spatial modelling of the marsh platform evolution constitutes therefore an intuitive framework and accessible communication tool for coastal planners.
Kang, J.; Koo, B.J.; Jeong, K.-S.; Woo, H.J.; Seo, J.; Seo, H.-S.; Kim, M.-S., and Kwon, K., 2018. Insights into macroinvertebrate burrowing activity and methane flux in tidal flats. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 681–685. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The CH4 flux was examined preliminarily in tidal flats using a circular closed-chamber method to understand the effects of macroinvertebrate burrowing activity. The chamber was deployed over decapods (mud shrimp, Laomedia astacina and crab, Macrophthalmus japonicus) burrows for ~ 2 h, and the CH4 and CO2 concentrations were continuously monitored using a closed, diffuse CH4/CO2 flux meter. It founds that Laomedia astacina burrow (which is relatively long) site afforded higher-level CH4 production, likely due to diffusive emission of CH4 in deep-layer sediments. In addition, the proposed CH4-oxidation process (i.e., reverse methanogenesis) was supported by the decrease in the δ13C of headspace CO2 during the chamber experiment. Therefore, macroinvertebrate burrows appear to be an important ecosystem environment for controlling atmospheric CH4 over tidal flats.
Lim, H.S.; Kim, M.; Do, J.-D.; Kim, S.-S.; Lee, H.J., and Kim, D.H., 2018. Variation of nearshore currents induced by seasonal waves in Haeundae. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 686–690. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Wave-induced currents at Anmok, located on the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, are one of the main causes of beach erosion related to high waves. Coastline changes induced by beach erosion and deposition are predominantly caused by sediment transport in the surf zone. This sediment transport is generated by wave-induced currents and depends on the wave height and direction. To understand beach erosion processes and the sediment transport mechanisms, field measurements of beach elevation and water depth were conducted for one month in winter 2015–2016. Using AWAC, ADP, VECTOR, and Aquadopp Profiler with OBS, intensive observations were made of waves, currents, and sediment transport in the surf zone. Wave and current variations were simultaneously analyzed at a water depth of approximately 18 m (W1) using long-term deployed AWAC data. Wave statistical analysis at station W1 shows that high waves from the NNE and NE are dominant in winter due to strong northeasterly winds from the NE. However, in summer, high waves coming from the NE and ENE are prevalent due to seasonal winds from the E and SE. By analyzing currents observed in the surf zone with waves, we found that a cross-shore current is generated by high waves, predominantly in winter, with incoming waves normal to the shoreline. Following the direction of incoming waves, longshore currents are separated into SE or NW directions depending on high waves come from the NNE or ENE, respectively. The variations of wave-induced currents caused by incoming wave height and direction accounts for the observed beach erosion and sediment transport, which in turn leads to beach cusp formation and crescentic sand bar migration during high wave periods.
Wu, E.C.; Chen, Y.L.; Wu, H.L.; Hu, K.C.; Hsiao, S.C., and Wu, Y.C., 2018. Incorporating Tidal Uncertainty into the Methodology of Probabilistic Tsunami Hazard Analysis. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 691–695. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Circum-Pacific Belt has become active in recent years, and the earthquake in the border area of land and sea probably causes tsunami disaster. The hazard includes overflow flooded, building damage, casualties, and radiation crisis of nuclear power plant. To quantify the risk, probabilistic tsunami hazard analysis (PTHA) serves as a robust methodology. The uncertainty stemming from the deviation of modeling, named aleatory uncertainty, is considered with including the tidal effect on the tsunami. To deal with the aleatory uncertainty, we incorporate tidal uncertainty into PTHA. Different static tidal stages are set in Cornell Multi-grid Coupled Tsunami model (COMCOT) to evaluate tsunami hazards. Three kinds of method are presented. One could apply theoretical probability distribution to different maximum wave height by the Gaussian Method. On the other hand, the Δt method and the Pattern Method combine tsunami events with a typical year of tidal record. The difference between these methods are discussed, and the Pattern Method is regarded as the most rigorous way. Finally, the method of incorporating tidal uncertainty into PTHA has been established and been utilized to Maanshan nuclear power plant in Taiwan.
Udo, K.; Takeda, Y., and Koshimura, S., 2018. Detection of coastal damage using differences in automatically generated digital surface models (DSMs): Application to the 2011 Off the Pacific Coast of Tohoku Earthquake Tsunami. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 696–700. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The detection of coastal damage due to the 2011 Off the Pacific Coast of Tohoku Earthquake Tsunami on the southern Sendai Coast was attempted via state-of-the-art remote sensing technology using ALOS PRISM satellite images with a spatial resolution of 2.5 m. Digital surface models (DSMs) were generated semi-automatically, and their accuracies were confirmed via comparisons with digital elevation models generated from aerial laser measurements. The differences between the DSMs prior to and after the tsunami were analyzed statistically for each type of land cover: residential districts, rice fields, coastal forests, and beaches. It was demonstrated that the damage to the coastal forests and residential districts could be detected though the damage in the low land area was difficult to be detected because of its small undulations in topography. Low pass filtering was employed to remove the jitter noise; however, the major characteristics such as damage in the coastal forests and residential areas were not changed by the filtering; that is, the major statistical characteristics could be detected without filtering.
Chen, F.M.; Tan, H.M.; Chen, J., and Jiao, Z.B., 2018. Influences of Earthquake Characteristics on Seismic Performance of Anchored Sheet Pile Quay with Barrette Piles. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 701–705. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Earthquake waves generated along crustal faults propagate through the bedrock and the local site deposits, impacting on any structure such as coastal structures. Seismic waves acting on the foundation of a sheet pile quay cause an oscillatory motion of the quay structure, and the seismic dynamic effect and soil liquefaction can significantly affect the safety of port structures. This paper reports the dynamic behaviour of a new sheet pile quay structure under seismic loads by using finite element method, and the new anchored sheet pile quay with barrette piles is developed to satisfy the requirements of higher elevation of retained soils and smaller wall deflection in practice. Both EL-Centro wave and Kobe wave are adopted in simulation to analyze the effect of earthquake characteristics on seismic performances of structure. The numerical calculation results show that the barrette piles are still effective to carry lateral earth pressure under the earthquake loads, and the maximum bending moment of structure does not occur when earthquake acceleration reaches the peak value. With the increase of earthquake peak acceleration value, the dynamic responses of structure are all increased at different degrees, and the amplification of barrette pile bending moment is the largest. The amplification coefficients of structure response under the Kobe wave loads are greater than those under the EL-Centro wave with the same PGA value, which indicates besides the peak value of earthquake wave, the responses of structure were also affected by other earthquake characteristics, such as spectrum, wave energy density and wave total energy.
Lee, J.L.; Kim, J.W.; Kim, H.S.; Cho, W.C., and Lee, J., 2018. Development of prediction system for invasion of swell-like waves on the southern coast of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 706–710. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Recently, several drowning accidents caused by rip currents were reported along Haeundae Beach, located at the southeastern corner of the Korean Peninsula. Several dozen people were swept away by rip currents, and subsequently rescued between August 7 and 10, 2012. The main cause of rip currents is swell waves that approach the shore. The rip current becomes more dangerous when a relatively long-period swell-like wave invades and is intensified, during the passage of typhoons far off shore. However, existing wind wave models require significant computational cost and time to obtain solutions to a set of partial differential equations, and have low accuracy for predicting the invasion of swell-like waves on coasts because they simultaneously calculate wind wave generation and wave propagation. In this study, we used a fractional step method to solve the wind wave generation and swell wave propagation components, in which the former is simulated using a typical spectrum approach and the latter is simulated using a Lagrangian approach. The results from the theoretical model were compared with field data collected during the dangerous rip current events in August 2012.
Jeon, H.S.; Hur, D.S.; Park, J.R.; Yoon, J.S.; Kim, I.H., and Lee, W.D., 2018. 3-D numerical investigation on effect of flow structure and water level on vegetation distribution in an open channel. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 71–75. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The in-stream vegetation is recognized to have significant ecological and aesthetic importance in managing floods and restoring rivers. However, it also disturbs the velocity of running fluid by increasing the resistance of flow, and raises the water level because of reduced discharge area at times of flood. Therefore, it is very important to study the hydraulic characteristics of vegetation distribution, and this study carried out a numeric simulation for quantitative and qualitative analysis. The simulation applied Navier-Stokes solver based on PBM (Porous Body Model), LES (Large Eddy Simulation) and VOF (Volume of Fluid), and the estimated drag coefficients of vegetation with Reynold's number. A comparison between the measured and calculated water depth and depth-averaged velocity found that conventional and new experiments were highly consistent. A numeric water tank was also used in this study to discuss the hydraulic characteristics of vegetation by measuring the velocity and water level depending on different vegetation zones and incidental conditions. The result showed that full vegetation in an open channel reduced velocity and raised water level because of the drag of vegetation, while half vegetation on one side or at certain part of the channel substantially reduced the hike of water level. Therefore, vegetation should be distributed appropriately when applying that in river management or restoration after an accurate analysis on the hydraulic characteristics of vegetation distribution.
Suh, S.-W. and Kim, H.-J., 2018. Simulation of wave overtopping and inundation over a dike caused by Typhoon Chaba at Marine city, Busan, Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 711–715. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study follows up previous research on simulating the wave-induced overtopping of coastal dikes by incorporating the empirical formulas of EurOtop version 2007 into the storm surge model ADCIRC SWAN. Hindcasting simulations were performed for the wave overtopping and inundation induced by Typhoon Chaba along the dike of Marine City, South Korea, in 2016. The simulation results showed that the wave overtopping and inundation lasted for at least three hours and were spread over the dike. Normal storm surge inundation was not seen because the dike crest height of 4.40 m was higher than the peak water surface elevation (WSE) of 1.13 m and significant wave height of 3.09 m. Near the dike, the wave overtopped maximum inundation height was ~0.7 m and decreased along the overland road to the upper zone, which agrees with the field survey results. This tendency was almost the same as that reported previously regardless of the dike dimensions and incoming wave heights. The reduction factor in EurOtop is an important influence in generating the inundation. Sensitivity tests indicated that a value of 0.63 is appropriate for combining a rising WSE with storm waves and filling gap effects on two-layer tetrapod slopes. This kind of approach to inundation vulnerability is more applicable than the prevailing storm surge inundation for natural or low-lying coastal areas because more than 50% of the South Korean coast is artificial and should help in developing early warning systems and/or vulnerability analyses of mitigation projects at other artificial coasts.
Heo, K.-Y.; Choi, J.-Y.; Park, K.-S.; Kwon, J.-I.; Min, I.-K., and Ha, T., 2018. Explosively developing extratropical cyclone associated with the high wind-waves along the east coast of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 716–720. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
An extreme extratropical cyclone struck the northern part of Korea on May 3, 2016 causing significant damage to property on the land due to extreme winds and abnormal high waves in coastal area. The meteorological composite fields for the cyclone show a strong surface wind velocity (up to 45 m s−1) during its mature stage. This study investigated the development mechanisms of an explosive cyclone through numerical simulation and sensitivity experiments using the Advanced Research version of the Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF-ARW) model. The trigger mechanism for the explosive cyclogenesis is the strong baroclinic instability and temperature advection associated with upper-level cut-off low and the interaction of potential vorticity (PV) anomalies between the lower- and upper-level. The efficient placement of the high- and low-level jets forms a favorable environment for its development and transportation of water vapor and the instability energy into the cyclone. The sea-state wave simulation around the Korean Peninsula is obtained using the wave model WAVEWATCHIII (WW3) forced by the 10-m above ground level wind field from the WRF-ARW simulations. The significant wave height and peak wave direction were simulated and wave distribution was analyzed by comparing the removal of the upper-level PV with the doubled. The numerical results using the doubled upper-level PV reproduced well generation of high waves around the Korean Peninsula while not the removal of the upper-level PV.
Abadie, S.; Beauvivre, M.; Egurrola, E.; Bouisset, C.; Degremont, I., and Arnoux, F., 2018. A database of recent historical storm impact on the French Basque coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 721–725. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A coastal storm damage database covering 64 years was built based on press and archives investgations. Flooding of Biarritz La Grande Plage sea front and related damages were characterized with a three level index along with binary reliability indicator. Damages to breakwaters protecting Saint Jean de Luz bay were also documented. Building such a database appeared to be extremely time consuming and also implies some limitations mainly due to the heterogeneity and incompleteness of the data sources. 30 flooding events were reported for Biarritz among which the five most destructive ones were December 28–29, 1951, November 9–10, 2010 and January 4–7, February 1–2, March 3–5, 2014. This clearly shows the extreme character of winter 2014.
Lee, S.-O.; Kim, W.-J., and Cho, Y.-S., 2018. Generation of a New Tsunami Hazard Map for the Port of Imwon. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 726–730. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Tsunamis, which are long-period oceanic waves mainly generated by undersea earthquakes, can be one of the most devastating types of natural hazard. Tsunamis frequently occur around the rim of the Pacific Ocean, including the East Sea. The most plausible and frequently chosen tsunami hazard mitigation measure is to generate a tsunami hazard map based on probable maximum tsunamis. Probable maximum tsunamis in the present study are three historical tsunamis and 11 virtual tsunamis. The port of Imwon, located on the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula, is vulnerable to an unexpected tsunami strike. The Central East Sea Tsunami that struck in May 1983 resulted in three human casualties (one death and two people missing and presumed dead) and property damage. The present study generates a tsunami hazard map for the port of Imwon. Shelters and evacuation routes are determined according to selection criteria and a field survey. The newly developed tsunami hazard map can be used by local authorities in the case of a real tsunami.
Kang, C.; Park, K.-Y., and Cho, Y.-S., 2018. Run-up Heights of Tsunamis for Geometric Variables. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 731–735. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Since many islands are located in the South Sea of the Korean Peninsula, unexpected tsunamis could cause devastating damage. To investigate the effects of geometric variables on the maximum run-up heights of tsunamis, a numerical model is first employed. The model is based on the nonlinear shallow-water equations with a moving boundary treatment along the shoreline. The numerical model is then applied to simulation of maximum run-up heights of tsunamis approaching on islands with variable geometric conditions. The obtained numerical results can be used to a defense plan of islands in the case of real tsunami attacks.
Kim, Y.-J.; Itoh, S.; Oya, Y., and Yoon, J.-S., 2018. Study on storm surge prediction model considering typhoon characteristics for largest scale. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 736–740. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The coastal area of Japan has been damaged yearly with many storm surges and flooding disasters in the past, including those associated with tropical cyclones (TCs). Also, the scale of damage is increasing rapidly due to the changing global climate and environment. As the disasters due to storm surges become unpredictable, more measures should be taken to prevent serious damage and casualties. Therefore, in this study, the aim is to mitigate the unpredictable damage by assuming storm surges of the largest scale and to propose a storm surge model that considers the characteristics of TCs. The main objectives of this study are to analyze the characteristics of TCs due to pass through Japan and to develop a storm surge prediction model that is appropriate for the largest scale of TCs. We divided the tracks of typhoons into 4 groups of data from 1951 to 2015 (the number of typhoons was 756) in order to analyze TC characteristics that have the greatest effect on the target area. Another goal is to estimate the meteorological fields using parametric models and grid point values (GPVs) for verification and validation. The simulated results of meteorological fields are in comparatively good agreement when using GPV data rather than parametric models. Furthermore, we propose simulation methods for application toward storm surges of the largest scale.
Li Z. and Zhu S. 2018. Why there are so many drowning accidents happened at Dadonghai Beach, Hainan, China: Beach morphodynamic analysis. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 741–745. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Dadonghai Beach is one of the most popular seaside tourism areas in the tropical zone of China, attracting a large number of tourists from across the world. In the last 10 years, hundreds of beach drowning accidents occurred at Dadonghai Beach. In this paper, a beach safety evaluation model is established based on the beach morphodynamic state model proposed by Masselink and Short (1993). This paper suggests that the low tide bar/rip and barred beaches have the maximum occurrence probability of rip current, presenting the most hazards for swimmers at beaches. Barred dissipative beaches and low tide terrace with rips beaches have medium risk of rip current. Low tide terrace without rips, non-barred dissipative, ultra-dissipative and reflective beaches have a low probability of rip current occurrence. This present model is specially used to evaluate the beach rip currents risk at Dadonghai Beach. Results show that the monthly average beach states of Dadonghai Beach are low tide bar/rip or barred beach states from January to October. In November and December, the beach shows ultra-dissipative states. The Dadonghai Beach has a high probability of rip current occurrence, which accords with the local life-saving records. Owing to a complete absence of rip current hazard awareness and lack of proper risk management strategies towards rip current, numerous beach drowning accidents had taken place at Dadonghai Beach every year. The beach safety evaluation model proposed in this paper can provide a guideline for the beach safety evaluation and bathing beach management.
Yuk, J.-H.; Park, J.H., and Joh, M., 2018. Modelling of Storm-induced Seawater Flooding in the Suyeong River Area, South Korea: A Case Study due to the Storm Surge and Waves during Typhoon Sanba. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 746–750. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Suyeong River Area (SRA), located in Busan, a major city on the southeastern coast of South Korea, is frequently damaged by storm-induced seawater flooding. One of the main reasons for seawater flooding is the propagation of storm surges and wind waves through the Suyeong River in the SRA. In this study, a series of prediction systems of storm tides, surges, waves and resultant seawater flooding for the SRA based on unstructured meshes with a high resolution of approximately 10 m covering the entire flood plain and a HPC-based parallel tide-surge-wave model were developed. Meteorological forcing variables such as wind and air pressure calculated by the parametric tropical cyclone model based on typhoon information were used in the storm-surge and wave models. The modeled meteorological data were in good agreement with observations of both the wind and air pressure. The simulated surge heights and wave properties showed good agreement with the observations as well. Waves reached the mid-stream area of the SRA, likely affecting the duration of seawater flooding. The prediction system in this study can reasonably simulate tide-surge-wave and resultant seawater flooding (coastal inundation) during extreme conditions, e.g., storms in the SRA of Busan, South Korea.
Kim, H.; Heo, K.-Y.; Kwon, J.-I., and Park, K.-S., 2018. Simulation of typhoon Chaba over Korean Peninsula using HWRF modeling system. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 751–755. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Forecasting the intensity and track of typhoons is a complex and challenging problem. In this study, the Hurricane Weather Research and Forecasting (HWRF) system and Weather Research and Forecasting (WRF) was employed to improve the forecasting efficiency for typhoon track and intensity. A comparison analysis was performed between the HWRF and WRF systems using data from observational buoys in the southern part of the Korean Peninsula (KP). The HWRF model could capture typhoon Chaba's track after landfall better than the WRF model. With respect to the intensity, the HWRF model overestimated the maximum wind speed and central sea level pressure while the WRF model underestimated it. These results indicate that the HWRF model was superior to the WRF one for predicting the characteristics of typhoon Chaba after landfall. Further, the HWRF model is suitable for predicting typhoon induced high waves and surges over KP.
Liu Y.Q.; Zhang X., and Wu Q.Y., 2018. Effects of Landscape Pattern Change on Non-point Source Pollution in Coastal Zone. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 756–760. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The coastal zone is characterized by the concentration of human activities, the change of environment, and the ecological environment is vulnerable to the disturbance of human and natural factors. Since the coastal zone is the terminus of the inland water system, contaminants accumulate in the landscape space and eventually converge along the water in the coastal zone. Under the premise that point source pollution is gradually controlled, the problem of non-point source pollution is becoming more and more serious with the development of human activities. The change of landscape pattern is an important aspect in the study of non-point source pollution, and the temporal and spatial complexity of the landscape pattern of coastal zone will affect the generation and transmission of non-point source pollution. With the help of remote sensing and GIS spatial analysis technology, this paper aims to study the influence of landscape pattern changes on the non-point source pollution of coastal zone by using the data of long-term landscape pattern and non-point source pollution monitoring. Based on the analysis of the differences of the non-point source pollution in different landscape patterns, the results provide a reference for optimizing the landscape pattern and improving the ecological environment quality of the coastal zone.
Valentim, M.M.; Monteiro, S.M., and Rollnic, M., 2018. The influence of seasonality on haline zones in an Amazonian estuary. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 76–80. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study relates salinity fluctuations throughout Mojuim estuary, dominated by macrotides and situated in the humid tropical region between the Pará River mouth and the Atlantic ocean (−0.72° and −48.00°), Northeastern Pará, Brazil. Water salinity in situ were measured, on the surface and at the bottom, with a multiparameter probe (Horiba U-50) for six months, corresponding to the intermediate season (July and August, 2016), dry season (November and December, 2016), and rainy season (January and February, 2017) during spring tide. Sampling stations comprehended 50 km throughout the estuary and were divided in five 10-km sectors. The sectors were classified according to the Venice System. Significant variations salinity (p>0.5) in water column were not observed, as it is a well-mixed estuary. During rainy season, were observed the lowest mean salinity (8.5±0.8 PSU), which increased to 15.99±0.37 PSU during the intermediate season, and to 22.38±0.61 PSU during dry season. Saline intrusion reached sector 5 (50 km upstream of the mouth) during dry season and was restricted to sector 3 (30 km) during rainy season. The latter showed the highest variation in haline zones in all seasons, and they varied from oligohaline during rainy season, to mesohaline during intermediate season, and polyhaline during dry season. During rainy and intermediate seasons, river domain limits tidal progression, and it is why sector 5 shows no haline variations, remaining as a freshwater zone, as opposed to dry season, when this sector shows a oligohaline zone, due to the higher tide reach and to the higher dispersion of salts in the estuary. These haline limits might vary interannually, which indicates the influence of climatological anomalies on estuary dynamics over the last years.
Kelpšaitė-Rimkienė, L.; Soomere, T.; Bagdanavičiūtė, I.; Nesteckitė, L., and Žalys, M., 2018. Measurements of long waves in Port of Klaipėda, Lithuania. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 761–765. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Port of Klaipėda is in Klaipėda Strait that connects the Curonian Lagoon with the south-eastern Baltic Sea. Its quays are well sheltered from open sea waves but the port area still hosts dangerous water level oscillations that are apparently generated in the system consisting of the Curonian Lagoon and a strait that connects the lagoon with the Baltic Sea proper. The analysis of spectral composition of these oscillations is based on continuous pressure recordings with a frequency of 4 Hz in Port of Klaipėda during the stormy season December 2016–January 2017. The majority of the energy of oscillations is concentrated in three frequencies bands. Considerable water level changes occurred owing to infragravity motions with periods >30 s (<0.03 Hz) and disturbances with the typical periods of wind waves at the Lithuanian coast with periods of 3–10 s (0.1–0.3 Hz). The highest peak in the wind wave frequency band corresponds to typical storm conditions in the Baltic Sea with periods 9–5 s. While the typical amplitudes of oscillations in this range were modest, particularly hazardous changes in the water level, with amplitudes >0.5 m, were created at lower frequencies. The recording reveals the presence of harbor oscillations with periods 30–200 s (0.005–0.03 Hz) and seiches of the Curonian Lagoon with periods >1200 s (<0.0008 Hz).
Albuquerque, M.; Alves, D.C.L.; Espinoza, J.M.A.; Oliveira U. R., and Simões R. S., 2018. Determaning shoreline response to meteo-oceanographic events using remote sensing and unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV): case study in southern Brazil. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 766–770. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Meteo-oceanographic events are characterized by low pressure centers and intense winds. These systems are responsible for transferring a huge amount of energy from the atmosphere to the ocean that could cause serious socioeconomics damages to the coastal zones. Some of the consequences of these events propagation are an occurrence of large amplitude waves and an increase in the coastal water level. This study aims to characterize the effects of the extratropical cyclone in the southern Brazil occurred in October 2016, seeking a relationship between this event and the recent erosive episodes. Using satellite images and data obtained by unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV), it was possible to trace the shoreline behavior at time intervals, where occurred actions of extratropical cyclones during the year of 2016. The comparison of the shoreline position data, obtained by the image of July 2016, and the UAV (obtained in September and November 2016) presented an approximated shoreline retraction balance of 5.91 m associated for the cyclone that occurred between October 26th and 27th, 2016. This event was associated with synoptic pattern, which have feature cyclogenesis in the Southern Uruguayan coast with a displacement to the east and trajectory between 28° and 43°S, with winds of 17.9 m s−1 and SW direction. Associated with the meteorological aspects, erosive process is frequently accelerated or augmented by anthropogenic action, which is mainly related to building constructions activities and sometimes contributes to the destruction of dunes. After the passage of cyclone there was a partial or total destruction of 40% of beachfront houses and 65% of coastal protection structures. Therefore, this type of study constitutes a basic tool of general interest in the coastal management, contributing to understanding of the impacts and risks associated with the coastal dynamics and effects of the meteo-oceanographic events, along the Soutrhern Brazil.
Pan, Y.; Chen, Y.-P.; Yuan, J.-Y.; Liu, Y., and Xu, Z.-S., 2018. Error-Estimation Ensemble method in the forecasting of tropical cyclone tracks. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 771–775. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Tropical cyclones pose a great threat to coastal areas and accurate forecasting of their tracks is important for reducing and preventing coastal disasters. Multi-mode super-ensemble method was proposed to make full use of the forecasted tracks from different forecasting institutes. This paper proposed a modified multi-mode super-ensemble method, namely Error-Estimation Ensemble method, to overcome the shortcomings of traditional multi-mode super-ensemble method. The hypothesis, methodology and implementation of Error-Estimation Ensemble method are described. The EEE hindcast results of two typical tropical cyclones and all tropical cyclones that affects China coast are compared to those of four forecasting institutes. The comparison show that the EEE method reduces both the mean error and root-mean-square error of tropical cyclone track forecast, indicating that EEE method has better prediction accuracy and reliability. Discussions on present performance of EEE method and future works are present at last.
Lecacheux, S.; Bonnardot, F.; Rousseau, M.; Paris F.; Pedreros, R.; Nicolae Lerma, A.; Quetelard, H., and Barbary, D., 2018. Probabilistic forecast of coastal waves for flood warning applications at Reunion Island (Indian Ocean). In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 776–780. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
La Reunion being a small isolated island, the coastal impacts of tropical cyclones transiting nearby are tightly related to the relative position of the track, wind intensity and size. Thus, the forecast of cyclone-induced waves should be conducted in a probabilistic manner.
Using ensemble track and intensity forecasts of Bonnardot and Quetelard (2016), the approach presented here relies on two steps: (1) Considering that the use of parametric models leads to an underestimation of wave heights distant from the cyclone eye, the forecasted vortex is bogused into the large-scale wind field provided by ECMWF's IFS model for each track and time step. A short simulation is conducted with Meso-NH model at 8 km resolution so that it can create realistic wind and pressure fields well balanced with the large-scale conditions (2) A combination of a two-way nested Wavewatch 3 modelling framework enables to compute the waves associated to each track from 10 km to 300 m resolution at the coast.
Results extracted at 50 m depth are presented as exceedance values and probabilities of exceedance of wave heights for different coastal segments and thresholds. The comparison with measurements and simulations performed with Best-Track data show that probabilistic wave forecasts performed with the ensemble sets of Bonnardot and Quetelard (2016) upgrade the precision and the level of information provided compared to the deterministic method. Nevertheless, the study also points out that the size and shape parameters of the cyclones should be considered in the ensemble generation method to produce more accurate wave forecast.
Lee. H.; Kim, S., and Jun, K., 2018. The study for storm surge prediction using generalized regression neural networks. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 781–785. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Although the dangers of storm surge have recently garnered increasing awareness, studies on storm surge height predictions in accordance with regional characteristics are quite insufficient. However, accurate and prompt storm surge height prediction is necessary to promptly respond to disaster caused by storm surge. Currently, most storm surge height prediction figures are obtained from numerical modelling technique-based study, which has a number of analytical limitations. For example various meteorological data and complex physical factor analysis are lacking. Therefore, the Generalized Regression Neural Network(GRNN) is applied in this study in order to create a storm surge height prediction model through simplified data input and hidden layer and output layer. When the established GRNN was applied to the Tongyeong and Yeosu area, the obtained values were very similar to the actual surveyed data. When the model was applied to ungauged areas, the tendency of storm surge height was identified.
Ha, T.; Yoon, J.-S., and Heo, K.-Y., 2018. Numerical simulations of a meteotsunami using both atmospheric and phase-resolving wave models in the Yellow Sea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 786–790. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
During the past decades, meteotsunamis have occurred all over the world oceans and their destructive long waves have threatened the local community near the coastal areas. Among them, meteorological tsunamis occurred in the Yellow Sea have brought unexpected casualties and property damage to the local community on the western coast of the Korean Peninsula in 2007 and 2008. The events have attracted the attention of many engineers and scientists because abrupt extreme waves have attacked several coasts and ports even under fine weather conditions. There have been many researches to identify underlying processes of meteotsunamis and our understanding has substantially improved. Nevertheless, many open issues still remain unresolved. Although it is well known that Proudman resonance plays a dominant role in meteotsunami-related atmosphere-ocean energy transfer, detailed amplification processes of meteotsunamis influenced by the local bathymetry have not been sufficiently identified yet. In this study, numerical experiments were conducted to identify the generation and amplification mechanisms of the meteotsunami occurred in the Yellow Sea. In general, a small-scale meteotsunami, like the events occurred in the Yellow Sea, should be analyzed using a high-resolution modeling system because water motions can be affected by local terrain. To achieve the objective, high-resolution atmospheric modelling was conducted to reproduce the atmospheric pressure disturbances observed in the Yellow Sea and, then the generation and propagation of the meteotsunami over real topographies was simulated using a phase-resolving wave model. Both an atmospheric model, Weather Research and Forecasting Model (WRF), and a shoallow water equations model, COMCOT, were employed to simulate the generation and transformation of the meteotsunami, respectively. The numerical results were first compared with the available observational data during the event to validate the modelling system, and then used to identify the generation and amplification mechanism of the meteotsunami in the Yellow Sea.
Erikson, L.H.; O'Neill, A.C., and Barnard, P.L., 2018. Estimating fluvial discharges coincident with 21st century coastal storms modeled with CoSMoS. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 791–795. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
On the open coast, flooding is largely driven by tides, storm surge, waves, and in areas near coastal inlets, the magnitude and co-occurrence of high fluvial discharges. Statistical methods are typically used to estimate the individual probability of coastal storm and fluvial discharge occurrences for use in sophisticated flood hazard models. A challenge arises when considering possible future climate changes and the relation between the intensity of extreme coastal water levels and high fluvial discharges.
In this study, the Coastal Storm Modeling System (CoSMoS) is used to dynamically downscale global climate projections to local-scale storm-driven coastal water levels, including associated fluvial discharges. An efficient approach to derive 21st century projected fluvial discharges for rivers within San Francisco Bay was developed, leveraging a readily-available time-series of projected (2010 – 2100) discharge rates of the predominant river system (the “Delta”). Delta projections were used to estimate flow rates of 8 Bay rivers for the IPCC's CMIP5 RCP4.5 climate scenario. Relationships describing discharge rates, normalized by respective watershed areas, were developed and applied to projected data to generate 21st century fluvial discharge time-series for each river. Results indicate decreasing discharge rates throughout the 21st century with the exception of extreme flows.
de Santiago, I.; Morichon, D.; Arnoux, F.; Delpey, M., and Epelde, I., 2018. Risk mapping assessment by means of probabilistic storm scenarios in a partially engineered beach: Anglet, France. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 796–800. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The characterisation of storms and the associated damage level is essential to design correct risk mitigation strategies. The study site, an engineered beach located in the South West of France, is exposed to frequent storm events. The objective of the present work is twofold: (1) to obtain a risk map along the different sectors of the beach and (2) to find risk indicators suitable for the present study site. The storm scenarios are obtained from a hindcast database that includes 66 years of wave parameters. Six storm types have been chosen to be representative of the extreme wave climate of the study site based on the energy flux (EF) threshold. The beach response to storm events is alongshore non-uniform and closely linked to the cross-shore position of the seawall. Total storm power combined with water level and beach volume/width seems to be the best set of risk indicators for the present study site.
Morichon, D.; de Santiago, I.; Delpey, M.; Somdecoste, T.; Callens, A.; Liquet, B.; Liria, P., and Arnould, P., 2018. Assessment of flooding hazards at an engineered beach during extreme events: Biarritz, SW France. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 801–805. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This study focuses on flooding hazards along the Grande Plage of Biarritz. This pocket engineered beach, located in the south west of France, was highly battered by a series of storms during the winter 2013–2014 and experienced great damages to buildings and infrastructures. The vulnerability of this type of beaches to storm impact is assessed using the XBeach surf beat model. For validation purpose, a dedicated spectral wave model is also used on the coastal area to force XBeach at 15 m depth. This coastal wave model is first validated against nearshore wave measurements provided by two sensors deployed during the winter 2017. Then the total water level elevations measured at the shore with a video monitoring system are used to assess XBeach results. The model is then used to run a series of extreme storm scenarios with different return periods (1, 10 and 50 years). Results show how the occurrence of flooding events increases with storm intensity. The response of the beach is alongshore non-uniform for all the storm scenarios. The section, where the dry beach width is smaller, is more exposed to flooding whereas vulnerability is reduced by wider dry beach areas. This study constitutes a milestone and outlines next steps toward the development of an operational warning system for the GPB.
Arnoux, F.,; Abadie, S.; Bertin, X.; Kojadinovic, I. 2018. A database to study storm impact statistics along the Basque Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 806–810. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A database aiming at studying storm impact on the French Basque coast and covering the period 1949–2015 is presented in this paper Wave and water level data originate from synthetic or numerical hindcast complemented by buoys or tide gauge measurements. A statistical validation of each variable and, when needed, a distribution correction of biased variables was carried out. The constructed database will be used in confrontation with an historical review of past storm damages to try to find a statistical link between the two though a damage function.
Costa, M.S.; Rocha, A.S.; Santos, A.S., and Rolnic, M., 2018. Influence of tide on salt entrapment in the River Mojuim Estuary. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 81–86. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The aim of this study is to check whether there is salt entrapment in an estuary in the Amazon eastern coast. This study case was conducted in a section of the lower Mojuim River estuary. Tide, current, and water salinity were measured for 25 h during wet and dry seasons, 2014. Tide and salinity levels were recorded at fixed stations for 55 consecutive days during each season. Advective, diffusive, and dispersive salt transport and the Stratification/Circulation diagram were calculated. The Mojuim River estuary has a macrotidal, semidiurnal regime, with tide height of 4.9 m during spring tide and 3.2 m during neap tide. Maximum current intensities during wet season are 1.6 m.s−1 in flood tide and 1.9 m.s−1 in ebb tide, whereas during dry season, they are 1.2 m.s−1 in ebb tide and 1.6 m.s−1 in flood tide. Mean salinity increased from 7.3 g.kg−1 (±2.82) during wet season to 21.2 g.kg−1 (±3.62) during dry season. Advective salt transport was 736.4 kg.s−1 during wet season and 72.1 kg.s−1 during dry season, up-estuary and down-estuary, respectively. River discharge and Stokes transport are the predominant components of advective salt transport. It allows salt entrapment in the estuary during extreme tides, which might be retained in the floodplains. As the Mojuim river estuary is shallow (mean depth 4.5 m), the water column varies according to the fluvial component and to tides. Thus, the intensity of the fluvial component and tides during wet season promotes eddy mixture. During dry season, a decreased fluvial component due to low rainfall increases saline intrusion and causes the water column to be slightly stratified. The Mojuim river estuary was classified as well mixed during wet season and slightly mixed during dry season, according to the Stratification/Circulation diagram.
Jun, K.; Jun, B.-H.; Lee, H.; Kim, S., and Tak, W., 2018. The study of utilization and precision based on the comparison and analysis of drone-based coastal hazard data and its application in the ocean environment. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 811–815. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
As more economic activities are developing along the coast, many studies are performed within the area concerning biological, social, economic factors closely linked to human activities. As coastal hazards occur in various categories, consistent monitoring would establish effective countermeasures and management of the coastal hazard region. Many surveys concerning seashore disasters exist already, like the bathymetric survey, beach profile survey, and shoreline survey. However, some of their disadvantages include high price, the use of equipment and many people, and time. The Gagok River, located in the Eastern coast of Korea, was chosen as it has many problems like its collapse of the coastal erosion and seaside road. Coastline monitoring and coastal survey were implemented using the drone and terrestrial LiDAR. For many years, the surveyed data were used to analyse the shoreline erosion problems and coastal estuary topographic changes. Changes in the shoreline were confirmed to occur every year at the designated area of study. The geomorphological state of the coastal estuary caused deposition, thus both the elevation rose and beach area increased consistently. Monitoring of these changes was consistent; upon analysis of all these data, this provided useful information for the construction of coastal structures and coastal protection facilities. At the end, the analysed data provided by both terrestrial LiDAR and the drone were compared. The survey data provided by the drone during the monitoring were validated to show higher utilization and precision.
Zhou, C.Y.; Xu, C.Y.; Zhang, J.S.; Fu, X.Y., and Yin, Y., 2018. Coastal hazards caused by different extreme storms in the Bohai Sea, China. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 816–820. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Bohai Sea, a semi-enclosed epicontinental sea, suffers different storms frequently, mainly tropical cyclones in summer/autumn and cold waves in winter/spring. The extreme storms can cause severe coastal hazards such as flooding, coastal structures and ocean platforms failures. A numerical model is set up for the Bohai Sea using MIKE21 with coupled hydrodynamic and wave modules. Observed data of water levels, velocities and wave are used to make model calibration. Based on this model, three typical tropical cyclones and cold waves are simulated. Then the major characteristics of summer tropical cyclones and winter cold waves are discussed. Affected by the tropical cyclone, the water levels of Laizhou Bay and Bohai Bay increase and that of Liaodong Bay decreases. Influenced by the cold wave coupled with an extratropical cyclone, the water levels of Laizhou Bay and Bohai Bay decrease firstly and then increase, which is contrary to the variation trend of water level at Liaodong Bay. Under the single cold wave weather, the water level increases at Laizhou Bay, decreases at Liaodong Bay, and firstly increases then decreases at Bohai Bay. The maximum of surge level caused by cold wave coupled with extratropical cyclone is smaller than that induced by tropical cyclone and single cold wave weather.
Okura, S. and Hiraishi, T., 2018. Experimental study on scouring of land behind seawall due to overflowing tsunami. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 821–825. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In March 11th 2011, Tohoku off Pacific Ocean Earthquake Tsunami damaged the coastal area seriously. Some of coastal protection facilities such as breakwater, seawall, etc. were destroyed by scouring due to overflowing tsunami or draft wave of tsunami. If a tsunami exceeding the design wave height hits the seawall, it is considered that the seawall loses the supporting ability of the land behind it, and it slides or falls. When seawall loses its function due to sliding or falling, it is considered that second wave and third wave of the tsunami reach aboveground, and cause serious damages. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate scouring of land behind seawall due to overflowing tsunami. This study investigated scouring due to overflowing tsunami by the experiment using the seawall model in a newly developed Tsunami and Storm Sure Reproducing Channel (45m * 4m* 2m). Experiments were performed by using solitary wave that push the wave plate forward at a stroke to generate a single large wave, and long waves that are generated sinusoidal waves by moving the wave plate back and forth. The seawall model (4m * 15cm * 5cm) is a scale of 1/50. There is sand ground behind the seawall model of 6cm in depth,60cm in length, 4m in width. The scouring phenomenon of land behind seawall was investigated by measuring the sand ground after generating tsunami.
You, Z.J.; Ji, Z.Z., and Bai, Y.Z., 2018. Impacts of storm wave-induced coastal hazards on the coast of China. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 826–830. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The mainland coast of China is 18,000km long and houses more than 50% of its population. There are increasing pressures to develop the Chinese coastal areas for residential, commercial, tourism and recreational purposes. However, the coast of China has been periodically ravaged by tropical cyclones, storm surges and large coastal waves, resulting in heavy losses of coastal economy and human lives. Three individual extreme tropical cyclones occurred in 1956, 1969 and 1994, for example, resulted in the total losses of more than 7,400 human lives and enormous economic damage. The most recent data show that the coastal natural hazards on the coast of China have resulted in annual damage of about US $3 billion to the coastal economy and annual loss of 256 human lives. Few researchers in China have quantitatively assessed impacts of storm waves and high wave runup on the coast of China. This study is designated to quantitatively assess impacts of storm wave-induced coastal hazards on the coast of China based on the most recent coastal hazard data (1989–2016). It is found that the combination of storm-induced high surges and large waves is responsible for all major coastal natural hazards and especially for heavy losses of human lives on the coast of China, and that the storm wave-induced hazard intensity increases spatially from the north to south along the coast and well correlates to wave energy flux.
Lee, J.H. and Kim, T.R., 2018. Study of High Waves caused by Slanting-fetch Effects along the Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 831–835. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Design wave height estimation for the ports and coastal structures are mainly based on the waves from offshore wind which have long fetches enough to develop high waves. The waves generated by short fetched land wind are usually neglected because they are thought to be small and short period waves. However, in case of land wind oblique to the long coast line with short fetch, unexpected long period high waves are developed along the coast by slanting-fetch effects. These high waves can damage human lives as well as coastal structures, but are difficult to predict using offshore wave measurement system. Therefore, it is important to understand the characteristics of waves by slantingfetch and prepare countermeasures against them.
This paper analyzes observed wind and wave data in the East Sea, on Feb. 6–8th and Dec. 12–14th in 2013, when waves were developed by slanting-fetch effects near the coast. During these periods, strong northwest wind of over 15 m/sec lasted more than 24 hours, but southwestward waves with significant wave height of over 1.5 m and peak period of over 10 sec were observed at Hupo Harbor in spite of land wind with short fetch.
Unstructured WAVEWATCH III model is executed to simulate the waves generated by slanting-fetch effects and RDAPS/UM wind data with 12 km resolution provided by NCMS/KMA are used as forcing input data. The numerical wave model results at Hupo Harbor show relatively good agreement with in-situ measurement data explaining high waves with long period by slanting-fetch effects, and both observed and simulated wave directional spectrum at Hupo Harbor show strong energy in long period and southwestward direction.
Jeong, J.-Y.; Kang, Y.H.; Park, K.; Um, J.-H., and Son, Y.B., 2018. A bio-physical assessment of Harmful Algal Bloom (HAB) outbreak using multi-dimensional array data during 1998–2017. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 836–840. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Harmful algal blooms (HABs), Cochlodinium polykrikoides, which related a devastating algal bloom, recently have caused the serious problems of fishery and aquaculture activities in the south coast of Korea (SCK). To understand the evolution of red tide and determine physical factors as a function of the bloom occurrence and disappearance, we used the multi-dimensional data (satellite and in-situ) during 1998–2017. Red tides generally have started with finishing the raining season and then increased with increasing the sea surface temperature and tidal range. To understand the general trend of red tide occurrence, we classify three different scales with cell density, area, and duration of red tides such as small, medium, and large scale red tides. Small and medium scale red tides started in the middle of August. The periods of the maximum cell density and extinction were shown in the early and end of September. SST in small and medium scale red tides was higher than in large scale red tides. Even though the tidal range was relatively small at the beginning of the outbreak, it was increased in the maximum cell density and decreased in the extinction period. Large scale red tides began in the early of August and the maximum cell density appeared at the end of August. SST was the lowest and the tidal range was the largest difference in the beginning outbreak and the lowest difference in the maximum cell density. In particular, the phenomenon of large-scale variation in the overall time series was that the SST and PAR in large scale red tides were relatively low compared to the small and medium scale red tides. Even though the tidal range was less difference before the beginning outbreak, it is analyzed that there was a growing difference in time.
Yao, Q.; Liu, K.-B., and Ryu, J., 2018. Multi-proxy Characterization of Hurricane Rita and Ike Storm Deposits in a Coastal Marsh in the Rockefeller Wildlife Refuge, Southwestern Louisiana. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 841–845. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In 2005 and 2008, Hurricanes Rita and Ike made landfalls as category 3 and 2 hurricanes to the west of Rockefeller Wildlife Refuge (RWR) in southwestern Louisiana. In 2013, three ~30 cm sediment monoliths dominated by brown clay were recovered along a ~30 m transect perpendicular to the shoreline from the RWR. Each monolith contains two distinct light-colored calcareous storm deposits that are attributable to these two landfalling hurricanes. Loss-onignition and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analyses were performed on all three sediment monoliths to study the sedimentological and geochemical characteristics of these two storm deposits. The geochemical results show that the storm deposits are characterized by higher-than-average values of Ca, Sr, Zr, and carbonates and low percentages of water and organics. In addition, remote sensing images show that the rate of average shoreline retreat at the RWR is ~14.5 m/yr from 1998 to 2017, and 19 m/year and 25.5 m/yr during the Hurricane Rita and Ike years, respectively. Both loss-on-ignition and XRF results also show that despite being a stronger storm, the Hurricane Rita layers are much thinner than those of Hurricane Ike in all monoliths. Remote sensing data support our interpretation that Hurricane Rita caused significant shoreline erosion and coastal recession in 2005, rendering the sampling locations at least 30 m closer to the ocean and thereby more susceptible to storm surges when Hurricane Ike struck in 2008. Thus, these results suggest that site-to-sea distance is an important factor in determining the thicknesses of storm deposits in coastal wetlands, particularly along shorelines undergoing rapid marine transgression.
Youn, D. and Park, Y.H., 2018. The Application of Mathematical Analysis to Examine the Beach Erosion along the Upper Texas Coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 846–850. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The upper Texas coast has been severely damaged by repeated beach erosion without any landfall of tropical storm. Since the average wave height was lower than 1.5 m and the mean tide range was smaller than 0.5 m there, they were not enough to explain the extreme erosion along the coast. Many studies had been conducted to find the causes of continuous erosion and then overwash was suspected by morphological analysis. The past studies, through the analysis of the observation data, concluded that the impact of remote storm might be a major cause of coastal erosion. The Texas Land Office has developed a master plan for coastal resilience and they switched to recovery from investigation. However, beach erosion is still a complicated process and continuous erosion has not been studied until now. For that reason, we here propose an alternative way for the further examination. A mathematical approach called as Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) is chosen to analyze spatiotemporal variations. We here applied the EOF method to the observed beach profile data to examine the spatiotemporal characteristics of waves related to the erosion problem. During the observation, the landfall of hurricane was made in the study area and it would be an interesting analysis of affected or unaffected beach change by storm. The short and long-term variations by landfall of storm or impact of remote storm were also studied by EOF method respectively. The dominance of cross-shore process such as overwash was also analyzed in this study.
Yao, Y.; Huang, Z., and Lo, E.Y.M., 2018. Experimental Study on Floating Debris Generated by Solitary Waves Running up a Composite Beach. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 851–860. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Tsunami induced debris-laden flow is a destructive process, since the high speed and energetic tsunami waves could destroy and carry any items they could move. A key limitation in understanding such flows is the lack of quantitative experimental data. A laboratory-based study on a debris-laden flow under tsunami waves, modelled as solitary waves in a 2-D wave flume is reported here with the waves being incident on a composite 3-slope setup. Here, two rows of debris with different separation distances were tested. The debris reduced the maximum inundation with the reduction increased with the additional row of debris. The maximum inundation, maximum and final debris positions were shown to be more sensitive to the incident wave conditions. Ensemble measures and normalized kernel density functions were used to characterize the spread in the maximum and final debris positions. A newly defined dimensionless mass loading is further developed to characterize the inundation reduction. The obtained experimental results should find use in calibration or validation of numerical models and aid in field estimations of tsunami wave conditions via post-event surveys of the inundation and debris extent.
Xie, D.H.; Tan, Y.; Chu, A.; Zhou, T.Y., and van Maanen, B., 2018. Distribution characteristics of the extreme storm tides in the radial sand ridges area of the South Yellow Sea in China In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 856–860. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The aim of this study is to understand the tidal characteristics in the radial sand ridges area (South Yellow Sea, China) considering the most adverse metrological and hydrodynamic condition. Based on data analysis, at least 30% of the annual highest tidal levels in the South Yellow Sea are caused by the combination of storm surge and astronomical spring tides. Among the top 10 extreme high tidal levels, such combinational effects account for over 60%. A 2-D numerical model is applied to study distributions of the extreme high tidal levels influenced by typhoons with various tracks in the South Yellow Sea. Typhoon characteristics are classified into four categories: the front landing, the front leaving, the offshore moving and other types. As such, four different combinations with the same astronomical tide are examined. The front landing and the offshore moving tracks are of specific interest, as they lead to the most significant surge in coastal areas, especially at Jianggang and Liyashan. Temporal-spatial patterns of the extreme storm tides are presented to identify risks of coastal flooding in the radial sand ridges area.
Hong, I.; Kim, J.S.; Kim, K.H.; Shin, H.S., and Jeon, H.S. 2018. Analysis of physical habitat change for target fish induced by extended floodplain. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 86–90. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Flood protection structures such as levees and dams are being built continuously to prevent floods and they cause many rivers to lose inundated river areas. These losses slow down the natural development process and also reduce the weighted usable area of fish. In particular, fish requiring periodic floods and floodplains are seriously affected by flow regulation and floodplain reduction. Therefore many species of fish have gone extinct due to environmental changes and instability of river ecosystems. In order to protect and maintain the habitat environment of fish in aquatic ecosystem, proper habitat of fish must be guaranteed. One of the ways to ensure the proper habitat of fish is to restore the floodplain area. Restoration of floodplain offers many benefits to several species. The River2D model was used to simulate habitat of Pseudopungtungia nigra with life stage before and after restoration on the Mankyung River. As a result of WUA calculation which is an important index when estimating the optimum flow rate, it is found that after three kinds of restoration scenarios are more effective than before restoration. In case of old bypass channel restoration, the WUA value shows that the largest restoration effect at 20.0% in spawning and 39.5% in juvenile stage. Unlike the previous result, restoration effect of backswamp restoration was largest at 85.3% in adult stage. Based on these results, it is necessary to secure proper habitat to protect and maintain the fish habitat environment, and it is also considered that the effect on the physical habitat with life stage should be fully examined.
Kim, H.; Kim, Y.-K.; Woo, S.-B., and Kim, M.-S., 2018. Numerical study on the meteo-tsunami caused by high pressure system in winter season. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 861–865. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The Yellow Sea is the area of the world where meteo-tsunamis are frequent along with the Mediterranean. Kim et al. 2016 reported that most meteo-tsunami events occur in spring (~ 60%), but approximately 30% also occur in winter along the west coast of the Korean peninsula. Unlike meteo-tsunamis occurring in spring, a meteo-tsunami occurring in winter could be caused by mechanical atmospheric instability following the expansion of a high-pressure system like the Siberian high. In this study, Synoptic weather analysis was performed on some meteo-tsunami events during winter season. As a result, most of the meteo-tsunami events were caused by a discontinuity of the instability when the high-pressure system expanded to the west coast of the Korean peninsula.
Kim, S.-W.; Lee, A., and Mun, J., 2018. A Surrogate Modeling for Storm Surge Prediction Using an Artificial Neural Network. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 866–870. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A surrogate model for storm surge prediction is developed using on an artificial neural network with the measured tidal level in Korea peninsula. The 59 historical storms during 1978 to 2014 years are used in this modelling. Tidal data recorded for 15 years was applied. The neural network between seven input parameters (i.e., latitude, longitude, moving speed, heading direction, central pressure, radius of strong wind speed, maximum wind speed) and the storm surge is trained by Levenberg-Marquardt backpropagation algorithm. The type of network is a multilayer feedforward network. The data is divided by 70% for training, 15 % for validation and 15 % for test. The six save points in southern Korea are analysed by the surrogate model. The performance of the storm surge surrogate model is expressed as the correlation coefficient and mean square error at the six save points. The minimum and maximum correlation coefficients are respectively 0.861 and 0.979. The developed surrogate model satisfies high-accuracy and high-speed for predicting he storm surge based on an artificial intelligence method and a grid-free system.
Kim, D.-S.; Lee, H.-Y.; Kim, D.-H.; Hong, S.-J., and Park, H.-S., 2018. Development of real-time forecasting technology for coastal disaster analysis. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 871–875. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The purpose of this study was to design a system to provide decision-making support to the National Disaster and Safety Status Control Center regarding swell-like wave hazards on the eastern coast of Korea. Based on the results obtained from two test beds used for swell-like wave predictions, a system for forecasting swell-like waves was developed. The model used real-time data from the Regional Data Assimilation and Prediction System of the Korea Meteorological Administration. Using 624 parallel clusters, it required approximately 3 h from receipt of the real-time data to produce the swell-like wave scale criteria through the web platform. The five levels of the swell-like wave scale criteria (Normal, Attention, Notice, Caution, and Hazard) can provide decision-making support to the National Disaster and Safety Status Control Center, thus enabling appropriate measures to be taken for each situation.
Mun, J.; Kim, S.-W., and Melby, J. A. 2018. A surrogate model for wave prediction based on an artificial neural network using high-fidelity synthetic hurricane modelling. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 876–880. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A surrogate model for significant wave height and period prediction is developed based on an artificial neural network with synthetic simulations of hurricanes. The neural networks between five input parameters and the wave height or wave period are trained by the Levenberg-Marquardt backpropagation algorithm. A back propagation is a form of supervising training algorithm and the weighting factors and the bias are updated by the back propagation training within a limited epoch. The data consists high intensity 446 storms on west region in Texas. The 14 save points in this area are analysed by the surrogate model. The performance of the static surrogate model for the significant waves is expressed as the correlation coefficient and the mean square error at the 14 save points. The minimum correlation coefficient and the mean square error are respectively 0.981 and 0.011. The predicted wave height and period are good agreement with the target values.
Choi, Y.; Choe, H.-G.; Choi, J.Y.; Kim, K.T.; Kim, J.-B., and Kim, N.-I., 2018. Automatic sea fog detection and estimation of visibility distance on CCTV. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 881–885. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Sea fog is one of the major maritime disasters and thus causes social costs such as transport accidents, mainly due to the reduction of visibility. However, the optical fog sensors are heavily cost so that sea fog detection system is generally difficult to install in practical applications. In this paper, we present a new technique for detecting sea fog and measuring visibility distances using Closed-circuit television (CCTV). Our research is focused on the problem of detecting daytime sea fog and estimating visibility distances in an automatic way. To this end, we exploit that (1) the image analysis based on the HSL (Hue, Saturation, and Lightness) color model is effective for evaluating the density of sea fog and (2) the movement detection system relying on the variance of the pixel values is capable of deciding the visibility distances. The proposed method has advantage of being readily applicable to the widely used CCTV system without additional devices. This paper also explores the possibility of sea fog detection using deep-learning framework. In our method, Deep Convolution Neural Network (DCNN) end-to-end learning solution has been designed and tested for evaluating sea fog detection performance in the course of popular artificial intelligence framework.
Kang, T.S.; Oh, H.M.; Lee, E.I., and Jeong, K.Y., 2018. Disaster Vulnerability Assessment in Coastal Areas of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 886–890. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In this study, the vulnerability to disaster in the coastal areas of Korea was assessed for the safe utilization and value enhancement of coastal areas. The framework of the coastal disaster vulnerability assessment has been adopted from the concept of climate change vulnerability of the IPCC (2001). Coastal Disaster Impact Index(CDII) is defined as a function of exposure and sensitivity, and the Coastal Disaster Vulnerability Index (CDVI) includes those as well as adaptive capacity. Indicators of exposure consisted of typhoon, surge, wave, tide, SLR and coastal erosion. Indicators of sensitivity consisted of human, property and geography. And adaptive capacity consisted of socioeconomic and governmental adaptive capacity. The parameters of these 11 indicators were gathered from government agencies, numerical model experiments and field surveys. Spatial analysis was performed by using the GIS program after passing the quality test, and analysed data were standardized and classified into 5 numerical grades. The results of the CDVI were grade 1: 2,737.3km (28.4%), grade 2: 1,667.2km (17.3%), grade 3: 1,402.3km (14.5%), grade 4: 1,758.7km (18.2%), and grade 5: 2,083.8km (21.6%) of the total 9,649.3km. The CDVI value was high in Jindo-gun and Haenamgun, when analysed with an index that includes the adaptive capacity to the disaster of the local governments and CDII. Coastal disaster vulnerability assessment results are used as reference indicators to identify the cause of coastal disasters, to establish countermeasures, to aid the decision-making process regarding the sustainable development in coastal areas, thus contributing to effective and safe coastal management.
Kwon, J.-I.; Choi, J.-W.; Lee, J.-C.; Min, I.-K., and Park, K.-S., 2018. Spatio-temporal characteristics of storm surge events in the Korean Peninsula. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 891–895. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A total of 188 typhoons (about 3.2 annually) have affected the Korean Peninsula (KP) from 1959 to 2016 by the Korea Meteorological Administration (KMA). This study investigated the spatio-temporal characteristics of storm surge events in the KP for 135 typhoons using data from tidal gauges maintained by the Korea Hydrographic and Oceanographic Agency (KHOA). Because about 50 typhoons have made landfall on the south and west coasts of KP, storm surge records are concentrated along these coasts. For example, the highest number of storm surge observation records (35) came from the city of Mokpo on the southwestern coast. The highest recorded storm surge height was 2.1 m at Masan, on the south coast, during typhoon MAEMI (0314); the storm surge occurred during high tide, causing tremendous damage. A total of 239 surge heights over 0.5 m were recorded in the KP, and maximum storm surge heights over 1 m were recorded 21 times. About 31 % of storm surges occurred in the tidal flood phase, based on limited records. When typhoon BOLAVEN moved along the west coast in 2015, most tidal gauges showed that negative surges occurred when BOLAVEN approached, a smaller surge occurred as the typhoon's center neared the stations, then the maximum surge height was recorded after BOLAVEN passed by.
Kim, T.-J.; Hwang, K.-N., and Kwon, H.-H., 2018. Stochastic analysis of typhoon-induced storm surge in the coastal area of the Korean peninsula: inference from a nonstationary, Bayesian Poisson generalized Pareto distribution. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 896–900. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Climate-related disasters in East Asia have been recently increasing due to enhanced climate variability and climate change. Moreover, the frequency and intensity of typhoons and associated disasters in the East Asia region have been increasing steadily over the past few decades. In fact, the Korean Peninsula is considered among the most disasterprone areas, largely due to the incidence of typhoons. In particular, it is expected that the potential risk of flooding in coastal areas would be greater in the presence of a simultaneous storm surge and heavy rainfall. In this context, understanding the mechanism of interaction between the two factors and estimating the risk associated with their concurrent occurrence are of particular interest because of their impact on in low-lying areas. In this study, we developed a Poisson-Generalized Pareto Distribution (Poisson-GPD)-based nonstationary storm surge frequency model to combine the occurrence of an exceedance of a high threshold and a peak over threshold (POT) within a Bayesian framework. Here, the GPD is employed to describe the maximum storm surge distribution for each typhoon with a storm surge exceeding a certain level using a time-varying scale and shape parameter. On the other hand, the number of typhoons in each year exceeding the storm surge threshold follows a Poisson distribution with a time-varying lambda parameter.
Choi, J.-W.; Kwon, J.-I.; Heo, K.-Y.; Park, K.-S., and Choi, J.-Y., 2018. Accuracy improvement of particle-tracking simulation considering wind speed using various drift objects. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 901–905. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The simulation accuracy of the particle-tracking model (PTM) primarily depends on wind and current, among various parameters. This study explored the effect of wind on particle tracking using drift objects (drift buoy and mannequin). For numerical experiments, wind and current generated from the weather research and forecasting model (WRF) and Modelo Hidrodinâmico (MOHID) were used in the PTM. Furthermore, a field experiment was conducted using a surface drift buoy nearby Gageo Island, which is located on the south-western coast of the Korean Peninsula. Drifting buoy data from June to December 2015 were used and the PTM were calculated every 12 h. We firstly applied different wind factor values from 2% to 5% with 0.2% interval to estimate a single constant optimal wind factor, and subsequently, we applied different values according to wind speed. To determine the relationship between these factors, two important parameters, the maximum acceptable duration and accuracy (drifting object located within 1 km), were calculated from wind speeds of 2.5–10.0 m/s with 0.5 m/s interval. Using the derived wind factor (depending on wind speed), the accuracy of PTM was improved by about 10% compared to a single constant estimated optimal wind factor value of 3.2%. When this approach was applied to a mannequin type buoy, the accuracy was improved by about 9%. The results show that for practical application, the wind factor performs better as a function of wind speed, and not a single constant value.
Kim, K.O.; Lim, H.S.; Choi, J.-Y., and Kim, S.-S., 2018. Abnormally high waves induced by Typhoon Vongfong along the eastern coast of the Korean Peninsula. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 906–910. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Korean Peninsula has become vulnerable to increasingly frequent and strong typhoons approaching through the Yellow Sea and the East Sea. The typhoons are one of the threats to the coastal areas causing direct damages with increasing sea surface temperature and sea level rise due to global warming. The damages caused by waves and swells generated by anti-cyclonic winds from the recent typhoons prompted the Korean government to initiate two projects, development of coastal erosion control technology and investigation of large swell waves and rip currents for the southern and eastern coasts. During the typhoon Vongfong (2014), the highest wave recorded at Uljin (6 m) was 80 minutes after the highest wave at Samcheok (4.6 m), which is located further northwest. The measurement of abnormally high waves propagated both from East Sea and along the northern coast was unprecedented. The observed data at Busan, Uljin and Samcheok and a Simulation WAves Nearshore (SWAN) model were applied to analyze the unusually high waves on the eastern coast of Korea. The analyzed results showed that abnormally high waves at Uljin induced by typhoon Vongfong could be generated by the resonance effect that merged with lower energy waves propagated from the East Sea and higher energy waves propagated along the eastern coast from northwest, Samcheok.
Peixoto, H.J.C.; Baia, L.P.; Pereira, D.R.; Rollnic, M., and Monteiro, S.M., 2018. Sedimentological Sectorization Model in an Amazonian Estuary. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 91–95. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The aim of this study is to check whether a macro tide-dominated Amazonian estuary might be separated in sectors according to recent sediment distribution, considering local hydrodynamics. The case study was conducted in the river Mojuim estuary (−0.72° and −48.00°), situated between the Pará River mouth and the Atlantic Ocean, northeastern Pará, Brazil. A total of 117 superficial sediment samples were collected using a Van Veen dredge in the lower estuary (16 km). Stations are equidistant and encompass margins and estuarine channel. We performed a sieving granulometric analysis and a calcination analysis of total organic matter and total calcium carbonate content (360° and 1000° C, respectively). Were used a multivariate statistical treatment to separate the estuary in sectors, with clustering analysis and principal component analysis (PCA). Recent sediment distribution of the river Mojuim estuary is characterized by fine, platykurtic, and poorly selected sediments (0.63–125 mm) with low organic matter content (5.8% ±0.30) and carbonate (2.4% ±0.04). The river Mojuim estuary is divided in three sedimentation subenvironments: 1) marine domain, located in the estuary mouth, with predominance of moderately selected sandy sediment, where reworking and sedimentary distribution are influenced by tidal currents; 2) river estuarine domain, with predominance of poorly selected muddy sediment, where sedimentation is influenced by river discharge; and 3) a transitional sector with sediments typical of both environments. The Mojuim estuary might be divided in sectors according to recent sedimentary distribution, However, it differs from classic model as it has: 1) a mixed mouth, where the East channel has marine characteristics (93%) and the West channel has transitional (20.7%) and freshwater characteristics; 2) widespread distribution of CaCO3 throughout the estuary, with higher contents in the freshwater zone. Supplementary hydrochemical analyses are required to understand the processes that define these differences in the sedimentological sectorization of Amazon estuaries.
Lee, H.-Y.; Kim, D.-S.; Jeong, Y.-H., and Hong, S.-J., 2018. Development of a real-time storm-surge response system for decision-making support on the Korean coast. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 911–915. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A real-time storm surge prediction system based on typhoon advisories issued by the Korea Meteorological Administration was constructed to support decision-making regarding the mitigation of storm surge disasters. This approach was tested in real time by providing storm surge prediction data during the approach of Typhoon Chaba in 2016, to support National Disaster and Safety Status Control Center decision-making in response to that system's storm surge. A 140 core-based parallel cluster was used for storm surge prediction and the entire process (from storm surge height prediction to provision of information for decision-making) lasted three hours. The root mean square errors of the maximum water surface elevation and the maximum surge height provided were 0.09–0.11 m and 0.14–0.26 m, respectively, and the relative errors were 6–9% and 34–69%.
Yoon, J.J., 2018. Fine-resolution Numerical Simulations to Estimate Storm Surge Height and Inundation Vulnerability Considering Future Climate Change Scenario. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 916–920. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Typhoons are significant natural disasters in Korea, causing considerable damage to property. Climate change worsens the situation. The most severe loss of life and property in Korea was caused by Typhoon Maemi in September 2003. When storm surges coincide with high tides, they cause even greater damage. Therefore, it is desirable to accurately forecast storm surges, to enable detailed evacuation planning, including hazard mapping. To estimate the maximum probable inundation area while planning a hazard map, it is necessary to consider future climate change scenarios. The simulation of the largest storm surge inundation was successfully carried out with the Typhoon Maemi scenario using the Finite-Volume Coastal Ocean Model (FVCOM). According to the recent IPCC AR5 report, the rate of sea level rise (SLR) could accelerate to 1.4–2.0 m by the end of the 21st century. This estimate should be considered when designing coastal structures in order to prevent coastal disasters. We applied the results of SLR to coastal inundation simulations. We considered the effects of additional future SLR on the traditional storm surge inundation simulation of Typhoon Maemi. Virtual scenarios with additional SLR were simulated to evaluate the maximum probable surge height, and inundation depth and area for each climate change scenario along the southern coast of Korea. The increase in inundation heights and areas at the regional scale was found to be approximately 67–70% and 414–527%, respectively. This study provides a method to determine the maximum probable inundation area due to surge wave propagation.
Sui, T.; Zhang, C.; Zheng, J.; Guo, Y., and Xie, M., 2018. Numerical study of standing wave-induced residual response with the non-homogenous soil property. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 921–925. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Coastal seabed soil is usually non-homogeneous vertically. Seabed instability may take place under dynamic wave loading which may lead to the marine landslides. Most of the existing models have been limited to the soil oscillatory mechanism for a sandy seabed with relatively large permeability, which neglects the residual mechanism in a silt seabed with poor drainage condition. In this study, based on the Fully-dynamic (FD) seabed model, the numerical invesitgation for standing wave induced non-homogeneous seabed residual response is proposed. The present model is validated based on the flume tests in the available literatures. Good agreement between the measurements and numerical simulation is obtained. The validated model is then applied to investigate the standing wave induced pore pressure accumulation within a vertically non-homogeneous seabed. Numerical results indicate: (1) Pore pressure in the non-homogeneous seabed is much larger than that in the homogeneous seabed, of which discrepancies increase with the loading time, (2) this influence of the nonhomogeneous soil properties on the seabed residual response is generally larger with standing wave than that with propagation wave, and (3) the largest influence of the non-homogenoeus soil on the seabed residual response occurs at the location beneath the node of the standing wave.
Malvárez, G.; Navas, F.; Parker, D.J., and Penning-Rowsell, E., 2018. The Need for Coastal Hazard Prevention and its Valuation Methodologies in Europe. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 926–930. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The artificialisation of the coast has significantly increased the potential for hazard affecting greater populations and still methodologies for valuation of coastal protection are lacking a multidimentisional approach taking into account both hydrometeorological as well as human induced risks in a way that swift decision making can be achieved. Environmental and economic appraisal is needed for managing coastal erosion and inundation as well as oil spills. In depth analyses from the UK, Poland, Italy, Greece and Spain legislative and planning frameworks show that methodologies vary significantly and that the agreed principles of implementation of benefit-cost and/or multicriteria analyses for decision making in the context of EU directives directly involved in coastal hazards (such as the Floods Directive (2007/60/EC)) are not as yet carried out for a variety of reasons. Key findings, indicates that the range of approaches implemented in European Union member states are reduced to three models: (i) based on strong Spatial and Land Planning instruments; the main tool for decision making related to coastal hazards is ultimately mediated by urban planning. Even though specific legislation is in place for the management of coastal areas, the planning instruments are a major condition that forces actual coastal hazard alleviation; (ii) based on economic appraisal, with cost benefit analysis as a key methodology in the process to distribute resources among the various institutions involved. In those instances, allocation of resources coincides with the protection of socio-economic assets in a context of indicative planning tools; and (iii) emergency response-type approaches, which affect most countries in relation to oil spills but that also is very strong in instances where storm damage and other hydrometeorological process damages strategic resources for the economy such as beaches in Mediterranean countries. Expenses in those cases are not commonly confronted with other methods but an overriding public interest.
Escobar, A.; López-Gutiérrez, J.S.; Esteban, M.D., and Negro, V., 2018. A modified method for assessing hydrodynamic loads in the design of gravity-based structures for offshore wind energy. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 931–935. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The structural typologies used nowadays in offshore power generation mainly depend on the bearing capacity of the foundation, the sea depth and wave conditions, the characteristics of the offshore wind farm and the impact on the landscape. The use of gravity base structures (GBS) or other type of structures is subject to these input data. The aim of this paper is to ease the decision-making related with the GBS design, by applying different calculation schemes in the two different hydrodynamic domains, D/L<0.20 (Morison) and D/L>0.20 (Diffraction); observing how the models may be complemented in the previous design, by means of dynamic pressure schemes derived from the mechanic of waves. For that purpose, three case studies are raise; the first one, assuming that the structure is a vertical seawall submitted to a quasi-stationary diagram of hydrodynamic pressures and applying the Goda′s theory; the second one, assuming a model of inertial and drag forces, applying the Morison′s theory; and finally, the third case propose the use of the Goda′s theory in the section near foundation, and the Morison theory in the section of shaft, observing the level of trust and the adjustment of this typology of structures. This innovative approach can be used as an advanced guideline to ensure a suitable design of GBS for locations with sea depths between 20 to 40 meters in which it is expected the implementation of this structural typology, and on the other hand, to identify if those locations are suitable for the implementation of GBS.
Pan, M.J.; Kong, J.; Luo, Z.Y., and Lv, Z.J., 2018. Influence of typhoon path on salt water intrusion in the Modaomen Waterway, China. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 936–940. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Three-dimensional baroclinic model was applied in the Modaomen Waterway to analyze the effect of typhoon path on salt water intrusion. Taking typhoon ‘Nesat’ (the west-path typhoon) and ‘Usagi’ (the east-path typhoon) as examples, two opposite dynamic effects on saltwater transport and stratification were discovered. Influenced by typhoon remote wind, the east-path typhoon leads to the set-down of coastal sea level, which increases the oceanward advective flux. While the west-path typhoon results in the set-up of coastal sea level that promotes the oceanward advective flux landward and causes more serious salt water intrusion. Influenced by typhoon local wind, the west-path typhoon with the up-estuary local wind tends to reduce stratification. However, the east-path typhoon with the down-estuary local wind is likely to enhance stratification under moderate wind, but reduce stratification when the wind stress increases. Besides, it should be mentioned that with respect to time-varying salinity value, a bimodal characteristic appeared during the process of typhoon Nesat. The salt flux decomposition and the numerical experiments were adopted to investigate this mechanism underlying the formation. Results show that the first peak was caused by periodic salt water intrusion in the control of steady shear salt flux during neap-spring cycle with low river discharge, while the latter peak resulted from the oceanward advective flux suddenly turning to landward in the control of sea level setup.
Chun, H. and Suh, K.-D., 2018. Numerical simulation of parabolic profile of longshore currents. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 941–945. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The three-dimensional nearshore currents model well predicted the typical profile of undertow, i.e. the shoreward near-surface currents and the seaward flow below the wave trough level. Meanwhile, the measurements showed that the longshore currents were logarithmically or parabolically distributed over the depth, but the parabolic profile had not been reproduced by the numerical models (Newberger and Allen, 2007b; Uchiyama et al., 2010). However, Chun and Suh (2017) have shown that the wave-current interaction term in the surface wave stress was attributed to the parabolic profile of longshore currents, and then reproduced the profile of longshore currents in DUCK94. In order to see the parabolic profile of longshore currents in other cases, Chun and Suh's (2017) nearshore current model has been applied to Hamilton et al.'s (2001) laboratory experiment in the present study. Then the numerical results were compared with the measurements including the vertical profiles of longshore currents and undertow.
Jing, L.; Kong, J.; Wang Q., and Yao Y.T., 2018. An improved contaminant source identification method for sudden water pollution accident in coaster estuaries, China. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 946–950. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
This paper presents a method for quickly and accurately identifying contaminant source in estuary region, characterized by decoupling solving releasing time, location and density of source problems, respectively. The method firstly gets the rough source releasing time by analyzing the typical double peak phenomenon in tidal estuary region, and then presents the rough position of source by using Lagrange tracing scheme. The rough position makes up the deficiency of priori information in traditional Genetic Algorithm (GA). And then, according to the correlation between the measured and calculated concentration at measuring point, a high resolution mass transportation and an optimization models are operated repeatedly and alternatively. In order to increase the efficiency of searching optimal parameters, the Genetic Algorithm is improved by introducing a weighting factor based on the precision improvement trend. Such an optimization model can effectively reduce the calculation burden when parameters are increased in demand. This model has been successfully applied in an accident case in Quanzhou Bay of China. Simulated results confirm the model's merits in reasonably identifying relevant unknown parameters. The convergence of present model is more efficient in searching for the optimal parameters with less iteration times nearly half the traditional Genetic Algorithm. This model is high efficiency and has great practical significance in dealing with emergent water pollution in estuary and coastal areas.
Ni X.; Huang S.; Feng W., and Yao W., 2018. Numerical simulation of tidal bores using SPH method. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 951–956. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A tidal bore is a natural hydraulic phenomenon normally formed in funnel-shaped estuaries with large tidal ranges. Water levels and flow velocities change rapidly in both magnitude and direction when a tidal bore arrives. These strongly nonlinear water body movements have significant influences on scouring and deposition processes along the riverbed and produce hydrodynamic impacts on piers and dikes. In this paper, a mesh-free numerical method known as the smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) method is used to implement a numerical model capable of handling complex free-surface flows and solve the Navier-Stokes equations with a large-eddy simulation. A tidal bore generation scheme suited for a mesh-free numerical method is also proposed based on the SPH open boundary technique. Various types of tidal bores, including undular bores, weakly breaking bores and breaking bores, are simulated and validated with measured data. The numerical results represent the evolutionary processes and hydrodynamic characteristics of tidal bores ranging from weak to strong intensities. The generation and evolution of dipole substructures in breaking tidal bores are also discussed. By studying the bed shear stresses and depth-averaged vorticities of the tidal bores, it can be concluded that the sediment incipience intensity grows nonlinearly in the second order with an increase in the tidal bore intensity, while the sediment transportation intensity grows linearly.
Wei, M.X.; Chiew, Y.M., and Guan, D.W., 2018. Flow behavior of Propeller Jet around an Open-Type Quay. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 956–960. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The flow characteristics of a confined ship-propeller jet in the presence of an open-type quay slope with a rigid bed were experimentally studied using particle image velocimetry (PIV) technique. In the study, the toe clearance (Xt), namely the horizontal distance between the propeller and slope toe, was varied from 2Dp to 9Dp, where Dp = propeller diameter (= 7.5 cm). The propeller speed (n) and clearance height (Zb) were 500 rpm and 7.5 cm (= 1Dp), respectively. In each test, the field of view of the PIV measurement was focused on a rectangular region (∼30 cm × 20 cm) around the slope toe, which is the location of the greatest interest for engineering problems, such as scour damages in the case of an erodible seabed. The jet evolutions under different toe clearances are presented in the form of mean velocity and turbulence intensity from an overall perspective of the selected field of view. Due to the asymmetrical entrainment of the ambient fluid above and below the jet, observations reveal that the jet has a tendency to impinge onto the bed or quay slope. With increasing toe clearances, the jet undergoes significant diffusion before it reaches the slope. However, the turbulence intensity profiles show that the presence of slope causes a significant increase of turbulence in the near-bed region.
Kim, N.-H.; Hwang, J.H., and Kim, D.H., 2018. Evaluation of Mixing and Stratification in an Estuary of Korea. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 96–100. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
In the estuary, flow structures depend on the relative contributions of the tidal current and the released freshwater, which determine the mixing and the stratification. To understand how artificially discharged freshwater affect the flow structure in an estuary of Korea, flow velocities, temperature, and salinity were measured in the field. During the field campaign, discharged freshwater cyclically forms the stratified layers during ebb tide and relatively well mixed water column during flood tide as in the conventional estuarine process. The gradient Richardson number evaluated such cyclic patterns quantitatively with the field measurement data, which were sampled following the tidal cycle and after the release of freshwater. In the early stage of the freshwater discharge, stratification dominates due to the large density difference, which overcomes the mixing by shear at the interface. As time goes on, the momentum of the released flow weakened and tidal modulation becomes significant and the discharged freshwater advected back and forth along the tidal currents. Different from the conventional mixing during flood, the stratification breaks down not by vertical mixing caused by the shear generated turbulence but by the vertical advection in the front of the gate.
Ying, C.; Li, R.; Li, X., and Liu, Y., 2018. Anthropogenic Influences on the Tidal Prism and Water Exchange in Yueqing Bay, Zhejiang, China. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 961–965. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Yueqing Bay (YQB) is a semi-enclosed, calabash-shaped bay with shallow water depths and a large tidal range in the East China Sea that is relatively narrow in the middle and wide at its top and mouth. YQB has been subjected to considerable human activity, including reclamation and dam construction projects, over the past 50 years. To understand the changes in the hydrodynamics and water exchange abilities in YQB with respect to these anthropogenic influences, the tidal prism (TP) and water residence time (WRT) of YQB during the years 1964, 1984, 2002, and 2012 were investigated using a calibrated, two-dimensional hydrodynamic model based on the finite volume method. The simulation results show that the TP of YQB decreased by 21.3% and that the WRT increased by over 80%. The water exchange ability of YQB decreased continuously, especially during 1964–1984. The TP and WRT both show nonsynchronous historical changes with anthropogenic influences due to engineering intervention methods. The inner and outer parts of YQB exhibited considerably different sensitivities to anthropogenic influences due to the calabash shape of the bay. Large-scale engineering construction projects in coastal zones imposed significant impacts on the hydrodynamic characteristics in YQB that may have led to potential environmental and ecological issues.
Min, E.-H. and Koo, W., 2018. Numerical simulation of wave propagation over structures on a porous seabed. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 966–970. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
A wave-body interaction with semi-circular rigid structures placed on a porous seabed was simulated. Owing to the rigid structures installed at regular intervals, spatial modulation of the wave propagation due to a Bragg reflection was examined. The computational domain consisted of a potential-flow water domain and porous domain with Darcy's law interface boundary condition. Using the numerical wave tank technique, the two-domain boundary element method was developed to simulate wave propagation over seafloor structures on the porous boundary in the time domain. For various permeability constants and incident wave frequencies, wave amplitude was varied in the direction of wave propagation over the porous boundary and the effects of the permeability on wave attenuation were investigated.
Wang, L.; Jiang, Q.; Nie, S.; Zhang, J., and Iddy, I., 2018. Improvement on MPS method for simulation of dynamic pressure in dam break flows. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 971–975. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The obvious unphysical pressure fluctuation is a serious issue when the original MPS method is used for the simulation of a violent flow problem, such as dam break flow. In this study, some modifications on the original MPS method are proposed to decrease the unreasonable pressure biases, in which a simple and effective auxiliary criterion for free surface particles is proposed to increase the accuracy of surface representation, and a new form of source term is implemented in the pressure Poison equation. The improved MPS model is applied to simulate the dam break flows so as to examine the effectiveness of the proposed methods on the improvement of dynamic pressure calculation. Comparisons with the experimental results for the dam break flow verified that the new free surface detection method is effective to avoid the misrecognition of free surface particles. Meanwhile, through examining the calculated pressure histories at a fixed point with different forms of source term, the importance of the source term of pressure Poison equation in the calculation of the dynamic pressure is demonstrated.
Ku, H. and Hwang, J.H., 2018. The Lagrangian Coherent Structure and the sediment particle behavior in the lock exchange stratified flows. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 976–980. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Shear-induced turbulent mixing in the stratified flow is widely known as an import driving force of the circulations of coastal water and transports of small particles such as suspended sediments and aquatic micro-organisms. Therefore, this work mainly studies the influence of the vertical mixing and stratification on transports of gravitationally-falling sediment particles. In particular, Lagrangian Coherent Structure (LCS) of unsteady flow, which can be determined as finite-time Lyapunov exponents (FTLE) field of fluid particles is compared with the conventional Lagrangian particle trajectories which is obtained by solving particle motion equations. The shear-induced turbulent mixing of water mass and its effect on the transport of particles are investigated by a series of the lock-exchange flow experiments using the large eddy simulation (LES). When two water bodies have sufficiently high density difference, the Kelvin-Helmholtz billows are well developed along the lateral boundary and they trap the sediment particles which were initially located close to a transient layer at the half-depth of the channel. The simulation results also show that the local stretching rate of fluid particles dominates the transport of the gravitationally falling particles. In particular, the sediment particles are trapped within the relatively low FTLE field. The effect of sediment mass dropped the particles downward but not allows particles pass through the lower FTLE fields.
Shigematsu, Sota Nakajo, and Yuya Okada, 2018. An Experimental Study on the Interaction between Oscillatory Flow and Idealized Porous Bed. In: Shim, J.S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 981–985. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The microscopic structures of over and inside flow of a porous medium placed in oscillatory flow was measured by the Particle Tracking Velocimetry with the refractive index matching method in order to investigate interaction between them. The strong shear flow was observed over the surface of the porous medium and the thickness of shear flow varied with the phase of the oscillatory flow. It was found that the thickness of non-dimensional shear flow was almost constant and that it did not depend on the Reynolds number. It was found that the thickness of non-dimensional shear flow was almost constant and it independented with the Reynolds number. Besides, it was also found that the phase difference between flows over and inside the porous bed occurred. The characteristics of the spatial variance of velocity components were shown in detail with the time phase variance. Further, the flow properties around the particle constitutes porous body were measured and investigated in detail.
Rhee, D.S.; Lyu, S.W., and Song, C.G., 2018. Numerical computation of rapid flow over steep terrain using total acceleration concept. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 986–990. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
To model the rapid mass movement over steep slope under the framework of shallow water flow, total acceleration method (TAM hereafter) was adopted, and an extended two-dimensional hydrodynamic flow model was developed. This approach can be regarded as gravity modeling as eddy viscosity in turbulence modeling. It was found that the developed flow model with total acceleration method gave satisfactory results in predicting the front propagation speed, flow depth, and bed-shear stress under significant non-hydrostatic condition. TAM reproduced considerable difference in describing the routing of fast flow compared with usual 2DH model.
Kim, S.E.; Lee, S.; Kim, D., and Song, C.G., 2018. Stormwater Inundation Analysis in Small and Mediun Cities for the Climate Change Using EPA-SWMM and HDM-2D. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 991–995. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
The increase of rainfall intensity and flash-flood due to climate change are expected to exacerbate flood inundation in urban area. Especially, small and medium cities lacking drainage facilities are more vulnerable to flood inundation than large cities. This study introduces a simplified urban stormwater inundation simulation modelling for the two small and medium-sized cities located in South Korea using the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) Storm Water Management Model (SWMM) and a HydroDynamic Model-2D(HDM-2D). EPA-SWMM model which are widely used to the runoff analysis of urban areas containing drainage pipe network, was used to calculate runoff flow and surcharged overflow of the existing urban drainage network. Then, a 2-D inundation model, HDM-2D was coupled with 1-D EPA-SWMM model to simulate the flood propagation in urban areas. The 1-D/2-D coupled model was calibrated with the real rainfall events and applied to analyze the effect of climate change on urban stormwater inundation for the 30-year frequency of design rainfall calculated by RCP 4.5 of the IPCC RCPs. In a simplified inundation analysis based on 1-D/2-D coupled simulation, the small-scale urban flooding in the small and medium cities was rapidly propagated within two hours after the occurrence of a surcharge overflow. The flooding wave propagation was highly related to the flow interaction with topographical obstacles as road, and bottom elevation or slope.
Zhang, C.; Zhang, Q.; Lei, G.; Cai, F.; Zheng, J., and Chen, K., 2018. Wave nonlinearity correction for parametric nearshore wave modelling. In: Shim, J.-S.; Chun, I., and Lim, H.S. (eds.), Proceedings from the International Coastal Symposium (ICS) 2018 (Busan, Republic of Korea). Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 85, pp. 996–1000. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208.
Many phase-averaged parametric nearshore wave models are based on the energy balance concept and use linear wave theory to calculate wave parameters (e.g., wave energy, wave height, wave setup). For a wave propagating into shallow water, however, its shape becomes skewed/asymmetric and the linear wave theory may not be appropriate. Seven cases of model-data comparison for regular wave transformation over sloping and barred beaches are carried out. It is shown that the model using linear wave theory underestimates the regular wave height near the breakpoint, and overestimates the breaking roller length in the surf zone. An empirical method is proposed to improve the performance of the parametric wave models in shallow waters by correcting the key model parameters to include wave nonlinearity effects. This includes (1) development of a new empirical formula for the nonlinear wave shape factor, (2) using a nonlinear wave celerity formula, and (3) implementing a new empirical formula for breaking roller slope. These formulas are functions of wave steepness and Ursell number. The proposed method systematically improves predictions of wave height, wave setup and roller evolution under regular wave transformation with different beach configurations. In particular, the peaks of wave height and mean water level near the breakpoint as well as the roller length variation in the surf zone are accurately captured by the wave nonlinearity-corrected model.
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